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Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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cristakhenormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 31, 2008


Nice route, but with to many climbers.
Posted Feb 26, 2008 9:57 am

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2008

Boriss Andean

After two nights at the refuge we pushed for the summit. The snow/ice conditions were great, and even more after the last avalanche that covered the last part near the summit.

Heloise (FRA), Gary (USA) and I were lucky to see the crater and surrounding mountains in this clear day. It was just amazing!
Posted Feb 18, 2008 8:21 pm

HotfeetNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2008


A great climb. Views of crater were totally cloud covered.
Posted Jan 21, 2008 8:42 pm

ericdWonderful high altitude nirvana  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2008


3,500' upper elevation gain with 45 degree consistent climbing. Class 2-3, porters fixed a couple of 100 meter lines vertically and horizontally, to safeguard against the few hungry crevasses. Huge 400' rock wall traversed about 2/3 the way up, called Yanasacha. Perfect lava dome volcano with a straight forward approach. Set out at midnight after spending comfortable evening at Jose Ribas base camp 15,800'. 7hrs later reached the summit with tiny breaks in the clouds but remaining high humidity and low visibility. A bit windy enough to justify breathing thru a tight balaclava. A wonderful high altitude nirvana at 19,347'.
Posted Jan 16, 2008 4:37 pm

Jerry SNormal Route
Date Climbed: Dec 7, 2007

Jerry S

Great climb. Tough climb. Turned around 200ft from the summit due to seeing stars on the ground. Felt great after descending 300ft, but that was the end of my day.
Sweet mountain.
Posted Dec 14, 2007 9:24 am

OutdoorpartnerFantastic summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 11, 2006


Was suffering greatly from some intestinal distress, so making the summit was a very BIG success for me!
Posted Nov 20, 2007 1:54 pm

mnicholsRoute climbed: Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007


Great, fun climb higher up on the glacier. I loved the way the trail undulates up and down and around the ice features. We had a beautiful day for a climb, really lucked out. Summited at 0815. Trip report
Posted Sep 22, 2007 11:39 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 6, 1996

Boriss Andean

Snow/ice conditions were perfect, but cloudy during the entire climb.

We couldn't even see the crater, but it was one of the best moments in my life, being up there with Andres (my brother) and a bunch of climbers and guides like Gaspar Navarrete and Gabriel Llano (+) who let us follow them up with generosity.

Gabriel Llano died years later while guiding a pitch in Cordillera Real Bolivia. It was great to share moments with him and the rest of climbers.

This was the beginning of countless trips to Cotopaxi. (My first time on Cotopaxi's top)
Posted Sep 20, 2007 10:00 pm

paisajeroamericanoBest View Yet?  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 31, 2007


Incredible climb. My first roped-up, high elevation, glacier climb (>5000m). I hitchhiked into the park, walked to Laguna Limpiopungo, attempted Cerro Ruminahui the next day, spent two days climbing up the road to the refugio, and rested a whole day at the refugio before attempting the summit. Perfect weather, a full moon, and a wonderful night. Reached the summit too early, waited at the ice cave/wall and the crater's edge to catch sunrise. And what a view. Floating on a bed of clouds, with only the other 5000m volcanoes shining in the distance.
Posted Sep 13, 2007 5:54 am

pkrebsUnsuccessful Attempt - Normal Route
Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2006


Came down with a case of HAPE somewhere around 17.500' and had to head back. Make sure to acclimatize well for this climb.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 6:53 pm

jweidmanRuta Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2006


Much nicer day this time--perfect views. Long day (14hrs) as we waited at several times for hrs to help our slower teams. Way down was crazy as some people were dead--one guy was so screwed up we had to give him dex.
Posted Aug 12, 2007 12:56 am

Sara_MatisseStandard Route


Ecuador is a beautiful country with beautiful people. Our group was unsuccessful on Cotopaxi - moving too slow/I got an upset stomach from our guides 'idea' of dinner. Note to self: always cook a dinner you know your stomach can handle before a summit climb - I always bring a dinner from the States for that purpose.
Posted Aug 11, 2007 12:11 pm

bds670Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2007
Great weather, good climb. Summited with no wind or clouds!
Posted Jul 11, 2007 11:56 pm

HalikuNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2007


What Bill562 said. A tough climb due to the weather. While we made it to the top we didn´t see anything but white....a GPS was useful on this climb.
Posted Jul 10, 2007 9:11 pm

Bill562Coto standard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2007


Climbed with Haliku and Axe. The weather was beautiful as we left at midnight, but worsened as we climbed, deteriorating to a whiteout by daylight. We pushed on though and summitted at around 7 am. I don´t remember when the snow started coming down, but it was with us all the way back to the hut. Glad to have done this one.
Posted Jul 10, 2007 8:17 pm

Jessica LCotopaxi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 1, 2006
Great snow conditions, but bitterly cold and windy. My partner and I maintained a good pace to the summit, mostly because it was too cold to stop.
Posted Apr 15, 2007 1:01 am

bennovakNormal Route
Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2007


Made it to ~18000 ft. Snow, and poor acclimitazation led to my demise. You need more then 2 days in Ecuador to get ready for this one. I will be ready next time.
Posted Feb 24, 2007 8:32 pm

Daniel KlassenSummit 3  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 7, 2006

Daniel Klassen

Guided a group of students up. Snow was deep and borderline avalanche conditions.
Posted Feb 9, 2007 8:16 pm

Daniel KlassenSummit 2  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2006

Daniel Klassen

Best weather I have had on the mountain. Was up by 7:10 am
Posted Feb 9, 2007 8:01 pm

maraudersClimbed Normal Route: Jan. 15, 2007  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2007


My favorite mountain in Ecuador. By far the most beautiful and interesting terrain. It was also the fastest to climb. Summited a little under 5 hours. Perfect weather, almost no wind, with a perfect boot track. If it hasn't snowed in a while, I don't think you need a guide here. There are so many people climbing the mountain. On our summit day we summited with 3 other groups of 5 each. No one had a guide.

The initial slopes have steep switchbacks which opens into crevasse fields, seracs and 50 degree slopes. Without the boot track this would be a much harder mountain to navigate and climb, but with the boot track it's pretty easy with climbing experience.
Posted Jan 23, 2007 6:22 pm

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