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Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 17, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Cynthia (FRA) and Gunter (AUS). We left the refuge at 1:00 am. It snowed a bit the first 3 hours. Snow/ice conditions were perfect.

Got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 6:15 am. There's a new huge and deep crevasse a few meters before reaching the summit. We took an alternative route and summited.

We could see the crater and other volcanoes to the north, south and west as well as a sea of clouds below us.
Posted Dec 21, 2009 5:59 pm

tb00957normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 11, 2009
it was windy and cold. A bit disappointed that I can't see the crater because we were in the clouds.
Posted Nov 16, 2009 8:40 am

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2009

Boriss Andean

Guided Canadians Paul and Brian, (49 years old both). Left the refuge at 1:10 am.

We got to the summit at 6:15 am... beautiful sunrise and a perfect view of the mountains. We looked Sangay erupting far in the distance.

Got back to te refuge in just 1:15 hours. Great weather and ice/snow conditions.
Posted Nov 14, 2009 2:22 pm

EpicaA year to climb this mountain...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 6, 2009

Epica

My first trip to Ecuador was one year ago and I didn't have time to acclimatize or climb Cotopaxi. That trip inspired me to quit my job and sell everything so that now I can travel and climb all the time! Finally I got to the top, by leaving the refuge at 12:30, I got to the top at 5:30, in time for the most beautiful sunrise I have ever seen!
Posted Nov 10, 2009 4:25 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2009

Boriss Andean

Guided Jean Claude (FRA) and Cristel (FRA). We had great weather, startlit and windless. Left the refuge at 1:30 am and got to the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) at 6:00 am. Five and a half hours of climbing.

Crevasses are getting bigger and snowbridges thinner. We waited one hour at the summit, enjoying of the views and the sunrise. Rafael and Ivan (Ecuadorian guides) joined us later along with their four french clients.

The sun melted the snow on our way down, it made our descent harder. There was a huge avalanche by the time we reached the glacier line.

My wishes came true. I thick layer of new fresh snow covered the whole volcano and its lowlands. We all got back to the parking lot in the middle of a heavy thunderstorm.
Posted Oct 20, 2009 2:46 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route (Yanasacha)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Andreea (ROM) and Mehmet (TUR). Left the refuge at 1:00 am. Very enjoyable climb. Ice bridges on the crevasses were very stable and compacted even though the night was warm and windless.

Got to the summit at 7:30 am along with my two completely exhausted climbing partners. The fog difted away for a while and we could see the crater and a few peaks of the western cordillera. Got back to the refuge at 10:30 am.

- Some information:

Actually this is the very first route climbed back in the day by the first climbers. This route was climbable until January 2000 when huge deep crevasses featured on the way up, stopping climbers to reach the summit.

A new route was opened soon after, we called it “La Rompe Corazones” (heartbreaker).. I wonder why? :) It usually used to take up to 3 hours of constant activity to reach the 5,500 m by an almost 50 degree slope. We climbed and guided by this route for 9 years.

- Good and bad news:

The good new is, this route (Yanasacha) was recently opened again (May 2009). A very scenic route with many resting spots and boredless. It has many nice features, huge deep crevasses, ice bridges and the view of Yanasacha (black wall) from below. A very enjoyable climb!

The bad new is, new crevasses are showing up lately, cutting our way up and forcing us to search for alternative routes. Hope the mountain will get enough snow accumulation the following years in order to keep climbing by this impressive scenic route.
Posted Oct 14, 2009 1:41 pm

andreeacorodeanuRoute Climbed: Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2009

andreeacorodeanu

Climbed with Boriss (ECU) and Mehmet (TUR). Long climb, we got to the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) at 7.30 am. Got sick at the summit and returning was a nightmare.

Good weather, no wind all the way up to the summit. A bit foggy at the summit but we got to see the crater, Illinizas and Ruminahui from time to time.

I got amazed to see the whole route up climbed by us before dawn... very long and crevassed, most of them very deep and large. A beautiful mountain and I'm so happy I reached the summit!.
Posted Oct 13, 2009 1:28 pm

schulzjSecond time lucky  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2002

schulzj

A week ealier we had to turn back at around 5500m because of a heavy storm but our second attempt was rewarded with stunning views. Reaching the summit at sunrise in perfect weather and smelling the fumes coming out of the crater made this an unforgettable und unique experience.
Posted Oct 10, 2009 10:22 am

Shirley LamDarn clouds!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2009

Shirley Lam

Climbed all the way to the summit mostly in the dark, then waited around in some pretty mean winds for about 10 minutes to try to catch a glimpse of the crater, but the clouds wouldn't quit! Poopers...
Posted Aug 18, 2009 3:14 pm

eferesenNormal Route
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2008

eferesen

Did not make it to the top. Had to turn around about 300 meters from the top. Perhaps some other time.... Lovely volcano
Posted May 25, 2009 12:52 am

Groundswell2nd time around

Groundswell

first time with Ecuadorian buddy. made it to Yanasacha and watched him point out UFO's he was seeing. game over. came back in 02 with partners hans and jon. hired jeep to drop off, camped to left of hut my glacier for 3 days of stormy weather. weather cleared and we summited ok. tricky at 2nd crevasse crossing.
Posted Mar 18, 2009 4:50 pm

bighornmonkeyDeep snow  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2009

bighornmonkey

Started out from the hut at 1:20am, followed a guided party of 2 that we passed 2 hours later. Broke trail through knee deep powder to the summit....that is hard work at this altitude. Cold/windy/overcast day. We never saw the crater, unfortunately!
Back down to the hut at 9:40am.
Posted Feb 2, 2009 5:05 pm

pattycolomaMagical!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008

pattycoloma

It was a magical night, with the moon lighting all the way up. Perhaps I didn't get the summit, those memories are always on my mind. It's a challenge for this year.
Posted Jan 20, 2009 12:11 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 16, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Michael (USA). Very good weather, but cloudy. We were the first team to get to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) so I had to brake trail all the way up from the refuge to the summit. The snow was soft from Yanasacha to the summit.

Cold at the summit. Stayed up there five minutes and headed back down to the refuge.

It's advisable to use a couple of snow pickets for safety during the traverse below the summit.
Posted Jan 17, 2009 12:47 pm

JGHarrisonNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2009

JGHarrison

Good easy route, beautiful views from crater. My listed summit date may be a day off, weather was bad before and after my climb but perfect during.
Posted Jan 13, 2009 6:26 pm

boriskrielenCotopaxi solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2000

boriskrielen

Climbed it solo via normal route. No problemo. Great summitview! :D
Posted Jan 13, 2009 7:36 am

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker Route) - An accident below the summit!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Gerald and Wolfhang, both of them Mountain Guides from Austria.

We left the refuge at 1:00 am followed by 9 austrians and other teams. Weather was really bad. As we were approaching to the summit, Gerald felt to the void, pulling Wolfhang down with him. I managed to jump to the creavasse to my right side to prevent them to pull me down with them. The fall could end up 100 meters below on the rocks near Yanasacha.

Gerald and Wolfhang were pretty shock for the fall, they never used their ice axes for self arrest. I built and anchor at the lip of the crevasse and pulled them out with a bit of their help. A scary moment!

We got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) 30 minutes later at 7:00 am and back to the refuge at 9:00 am.
Posted Jan 11, 2009 2:40 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker Route) - Twice in a row!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Bruno (61) and Claude (61) from France. Very strong couple. Left the refuge at 1:20 am. Started climbing under a bright moon. No headlamps were needed for the first hour.

The weather changed in minutes. We climbed during the next hours in whiteout conditions. It snowed the whole way up to the top and back to the refuge.

We reached the top (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 7:20 am after 6 hours of climbing.
Posted Jan 8, 2009 4:53 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 7, 2009

Boriss Andean

My first Cotopaxi summit of the year. Climbed with Antonio (Spain). We woke up at 11:00 pm and left the refuge at 12:10 am.

Great weather all the way up to the top. Reached the top (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 6:10 am after 5 hours of climbing.
Posted Jan 8, 2009 4:45 pm

astrobassmanFelt a bit like shit on this climb...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2008

astrobassman

Cheeseburglar and I went up on our 4th day in Ecuador. Perhaps we should have waited another day, because Cotopaxi was much more difficult for me than climbing Chimborazo a few days later. It was still a great climb though. The views of the crater were fantastic.
Posted Jan 7, 2009 6:45 pm

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