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Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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andreeacorodeanuRoute Climbed: Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2009


Climbed with Boriss (ECU) and Mehmet (TUR). Long climb, we got to the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) at 7.30 am. Got sick at the summit and returning was a nightmare.

Good weather, no wind all the way up to the summit. A bit foggy at the summit but we got to see the crater, Illinizas and Ruminahui from time to time.

I got amazed to see the whole route up climbed by us before dawn... very long and crevassed, most of them very deep and large. A beautiful mountain and I'm so happy I reached the summit!.
Posted Oct 13, 2009 1:28 pm

schulzjSecond time lucky  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2002


A week ealier we had to turn back at around 5500m because of a heavy storm but our second attempt was rewarded with stunning views. Reaching the summit at sunrise in perfect weather and smelling the fumes coming out of the crater made this an unforgettable und unique experience.
Posted Oct 10, 2009 10:22 am

Shirley LamDarn clouds!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2009

Shirley Lam

Climbed all the way to the summit mostly in the dark, then waited around in some pretty mean winds for about 10 minutes to try to catch a glimpse of the crater, but the clouds wouldn't quit! Poopers...
Posted Aug 18, 2009 3:14 pm

eferesenNormal Route
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2008


Did not make it to the top. Had to turn around about 300 meters from the top. Perhaps some other time.... Lovely volcano
Posted May 25, 2009 12:52 am

Groundswell2nd time around


first time with Ecuadorian buddy. made it to Yanasacha and watched him point out UFO's he was seeing. game over. came back in 02 with partners hans and jon. hired jeep to drop off, camped to left of hut my glacier for 3 days of stormy weather. weather cleared and we summited ok. tricky at 2nd crevasse crossing.
Posted Mar 18, 2009 4:50 pm

bighornmonkeyDeep snow  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2009


Started out from the hut at 1:20am, followed a guided party of 2 that we passed 2 hours later. Broke trail through knee deep powder to the summit....that is hard work at this altitude. Cold/windy/overcast day. We never saw the crater, unfortunately!
Back down to the hut at 9:40am.
Posted Feb 2, 2009 5:05 pm

Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008


It was a magical night, with the moon lighting all the way up. Perhaps I didn't get the summit, those memories are always on my mind. It's a challenge for this year.
Posted Jan 20, 2009 12:11 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 16, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Michael (USA). Very good weather, but cloudy. We were the first team to get to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) so I had to brake trail all the way up from the refuge to the summit. The snow was soft from Yanasacha to the summit.

Cold at the summit. Stayed up there five minutes and headed back down to the refuge.

It's advisable to use a couple of snow pickets for safety during the traverse below the summit.
Posted Jan 17, 2009 12:47 pm

JGHarrisonNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2009


Good easy route, beautiful views from crater. My listed summit date may be a day off, weather was bad before and after my climb but perfect during.
Posted Jan 13, 2009 6:26 pm

boriskrielenCotopaxi solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2000


Climbed it solo via normal route. No problemo. Great summitview! :D
Posted Jan 13, 2009 7:36 am

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker Route) - An accident below the summit!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Gerald and Wolfhang, both of them Mountain Guides from Austria.

We left the refuge at 1:00 am followed by 9 austrians and other teams. Weather was really bad. As we were approaching to the summit, Gerald felt to the void, pulling Wolfhang down with him. I managed to jump to the creavasse to my right side to prevent them to pull me down with them. The fall could end up 100 meters below on the rocks near Yanasacha.

Gerald and Wolfhang were pretty shock for the fall, they never used their ice axes for self arrest. I built and anchor at the lip of the crevasse and pulled them out with a bit of their help. A scary moment!

We got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) 30 minutes later at 7:00 am and back to the refuge at 9:00 am.
Posted Jan 11, 2009 2:40 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker Route) - Twice in a row!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2009

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Bruno (61) and Claude (61) from France. Very strong couple. Left the refuge at 1:20 am. Started climbing under a bright moon. No headlamps were needed for the first hour.

The weather changed in minutes. We climbed during the next hours in whiteout conditions. It snowed the whole way up to the top and back to the refuge.

We reached the top (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 7:20 am after 6 hours of climbing.
Posted Jan 8, 2009 4:53 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 7, 2009

Boriss Andean

My first Cotopaxi summit of the year. Climbed with Antonio (Spain). We woke up at 11:00 pm and left the refuge at 12:10 am.

Great weather all the way up to the top. Reached the top (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 6:10 am after 5 hours of climbing.
Posted Jan 8, 2009 4:45 pm

astrobassmanFelt a bit like shit on this climb...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2008


Cheeseburglar and I went up on our 4th day in Ecuador. Perhaps we should have waited another day, because Cotopaxi was much more difficult for me than climbing Chimborazo a few days later. It was still a great climb though. The views of the crater were fantastic.
Posted Jan 7, 2009 6:45 pm

CheeseburglarClear skies!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2008


Great summit, clear skies above the clouds below.
A very tough climb due to skipping an acclimatization day due to cockiness... and the not so unusual unanticipated intestinal distress!
Normal route was in great condition, just a couple running belays across snow bridges over the two crevasses and on the one steep headwall.
Posted Dec 29, 2008 2:33 am

emilieNormal route - 3rd time's the charm!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 30, 2008


first time thwarted by weather in 2006, went back 3 days later and was too beat from the attempt in bad conditions. 2008 BOT (Beat One Team) expedition was designed to give me more time to acclimatize and an extra weather window day. i had similar troubles as in 2006 (difficulty recovering quickly from acclimatization hikes) but thanks to the support of my two amazing climbing partners (Jeff B and John G), we made it to the summit after a 7hr 45min effort. left hut at 12:15am and summitted at 8:00am. very satisfied to complete this unfinished business. also, went back without guides or outfitter and had the best time designing our itinerary and making my way through the country.
Posted Dec 1, 2008 5:32 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2008

Boriss Andean

Kafai (ENG) and I started our climb from the refuge at 12:30 am. It started snowing the day prior the climb, so we had more than one foot of fresh powder snow, which erased completely the trail up to the summit.

I broke trail up to 5,500 m, then Kafai felt the tiredness of the climb and slowed a bit down his pace. Got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 7:15 am.

We have great views of the crater and the surrounding ecuadorian Andean mountains. Got back down to the refuge just one hour after the sun hit the northern slopes of Cotopaxi.

I lowered Kafai down with my rope from the summit to the glacier line. He couldn't place a foot in front of the other due to his tirednes and loss of strenght.

Anyway a great successful climb with Kafai before my journey to the US.
Posted Nov 14, 2008 3:06 pm

TrevorMarrsBig Test  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2008


First climb with crampons and axe and the conditions were a real test lots of snow and high winds about 50% didn´t make the summit so was very pleased with myself although Boris (HIGH EXPEDITIONS) does deserve alot of the credit for his excellent guiding!!
Posted Nov 3, 2008 4:31 pm

gobriangoAweome..1/2 success  Sucess!


Loved the whole Ecuadorian experience. Crazy views. Would love to go back and stay with my partner onto the summit.
Posted Oct 10, 2008 11:41 pm

hellobeccaleeSuccessful Summit - Normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2008


Woke to half cloudy and half starry sky. Left hut to climb at 1:15am. Sky cleared as we ascended. Beautiful climb and glacier. Only 3 other parties that day, made for a more solitary experience. Hit summit at 6:30am, great sunrise. At the time Volcan Tungurahua was erupting, we could see the high plume of smoke in the distance. Got back down to hut at 9:30am. Wonderful climb! Boot track was well set. We scouted the route onto the glacier the day before - helped to save time in the morning darkness. We had trouble getting into the park since we were not using a guide. Be aware and prepared for this if you are going to Cotopaxi to climb without a guide! Good trip, the folks at Hostel Valhalla helped us a great deal!
Posted Oct 9, 2008 1:19 pm

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