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Couloir des Doigts and Eperon

Couloir des Doigts and Eperon

Couloir des Doigts and Eperon

Page Type: Route

Location: Valais, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.16460°N / 6.91450°E

Object Title: Couloir des Doigts and Eperon

Route Type: Ice and Rock climb

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: III/AD +

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: Huberschwiller

Created/Edited: Mar 5, 2004 / Mar 16, 2004

Object ID: 160278

Hits: 3490 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Start point : Bergerie de Soi d'En Haut (sheep pen) : bivouak
From Monthey go to Val d'Illiez, 950 m. 300 m after the church on the street to Champery take left (direction "Play") go down to the valley bottom and cross the river Vieze. The street climbs to "La Meuraye". In northern direction, after 800 meters, leave the tar and take the trail to "Les Majis" 1420 m. If you have an allroad car you can climb 8 km higher to Soi d'En Haut, 1864 m (rock fall often cuts the trail).

Route Description

From the sheep pen, walk down to the little collar located between Signal de Soi and the bulk of the Fortress of the Dents du Midi. The path follows the west side below the Glacier of Soi and crosses many water streams. After 1 hour, you reach the lonely Lake of Soi, 2247 m. In S and SW direction, you reach the side morraine (1 h 30). Climb the avalanche cone and cross 2 rimayes (sometimes delicate). follow the couloir des Doigts (45 -50°). I recommend to come up before sun rise (ice and rock fall). 3 - 4 h from Soi d'En Haut. Climb the Eperon half a way (loose rocks), traverse and reach the summit of Haute Cime near the cross. (4 - 6 h from Soi)
I recommend to descent over Susanfe Hut.

When to climb

Spring is the best time : the couloir must have drained the snow : a deep channel is then visible in the snow. The weather must be relative cold (0°). A snow covered Eperon helps to pass the loose rocks joined by the frost.

Essential Gear

Complete gear for a mixed rock and ice climb.

First Ascent

Couloir des Doigts : O. Gorman, E. Joris, C. Oberhauser 23/8/1902
Eperon : F. Coquoz, J-P Revaz 19/9/1895


Dents du Midi seen from...Dents du Midi - The couloir...Dents du Midi - Couloir des...