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Crossbow

 
Crossbow

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.23579°N / 116.968°W

Object Title: Crossbow

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Aaron Dyer

Created/Edited: Sep 18, 2007 / Sep 19, 2007

Object ID: 338493

Hits: 1715 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Overview

Crossbow is located on the South East face of Castle Rock Towers in the large left facing dihedral that marks the right (eastern) border of the south east face. It is formed by the south face and the Black Tower, a large chunk of rock that is separated from the rest of the formation and forms a large crack which creates the main crack on the upper section of the route, and the 5.6 Black Tower Crack on the East Face.
Crossbow
 

Getting There

Follow directions on the main page to the formation. Crossbow is the crack system in the prominent left-facing dihedral on the south-east face.

Route Description

Rule of thumb for this climb: use every available surface to you, holds and gear usually occur right when you need them but not always right in front of you. Climb up the first 10 feet or so on solid but reachy (for me at 5'6") face moves to the left of the large crack. Reach a lower angle gully system where gear placements become available on right wall.  
First Gear
 
Ascend the gully to a flat stance at the base of a large "chimney". There a twin, perpindicular cracks in the rick corner that provide a variety of hand holds and gear placements. Also, there are significant foot placements on the right wall, and a sidepull-rib on the left wall. After about 10-15 feet of climbing move to large, down-cut holds at the top of the right wall and top out on the Black Tower. Use the two anchors at the top of tower. Someone should bring a wrench up there and tighten the left bolt, it is a little loose. 
Descending
 

Essential Gear

50m Rope
One each of #1-#3 Camalot
4-5 Stoppers, no larger than a #11
Slings/etc. for the gear you place
Lockers and cordelette for the bolts at the top

Images

Getting into the GullyStemmingDescendingFirst GearCrossbow