Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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PD |
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Rock Difficulty:
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Class 3 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Overview
Starting at col de Puymorens then following the normal path of the Coma d'or, the route starts at the descent from Coma d'Or.
Getting There
Follow normal routes of Coma d'Or via Coma d'En Garcia and porteilla d'En Garcia.
Route Description
From the summit of Coma d'Or descend following N towards Portella Roja (2690m). There is an abseil takes you down the first 25 m of vertical slabs, with the option of a longer 50 m abseil to reach more comfortable earthen ledges. Continue down the Portella Roja in very exposed terrain above the void. It passes on the E side, before coming back on the left to gain a foothold on the Portella after one or two relatively smooth slabs, which offer very little protection. Be careful not to turn too far to the right before the pass, as the terrain quickly becomes vertical. Allow 30-45 minutes between Coma d'Or and Portella Roja.
The climb starts at the Portella. Just follow the thread to the summit. All II+, some III passages. The ridge quickly gains in height and atmosphere. A few short descents into deep breaches on the thread. The most interesting passage comes below the summit. A deep, wide fissure opens up to the SE. Well-protected, the climb up its center to exit on the right under the roofs. This is a III+ route, with a little opposition at the exit. Relay to one of the many sprockets at the exit. Continue to follow the thread over easy terrain to the S summit of Pedros. Count from 1h from 1h and half for the ridge
Essential Gear
50 meters rope
2 or 3 slings
few wedges
abseiling gear
External Links
https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/378473/fr/puig-pedros-traversee-coma-d-or-puig-pedros