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Cruel Shoes

 
Cruel Shoes

Page Type: Route

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Object Title: Cruel Shoes

Route Type: Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7

Number of Pitches: 3

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: Aug 7, 2003 / Sep 24, 2009

Object ID: 158460

Hits: 4002 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Approach

This is a three-pitch, nicely bolted face climb on the east face of the prominent Stripe Rock. Hike-in starts at the same trailhead as the approaches for the Lost Arrow Spire. Drive to the Practice Rock formation and find a parking spot (gets pretty full). The trail begins between campsites #19 and 20. Hike the well established trail downhill heading towards Stripe Rock/Boxtop/Lost Arrow Spire. After about 0.5 mile you will pass The Boxtop formation with its characteristic cubical top on your right hand side. Keep hiking on the trail. At some point (less than 0.75 mile from the parking lot), the Lost Arrow Spire will come into view. You will pass Lost Arrow Spire on your left and will shortly see a large rock formation (shaped like a giant beetle) further down the valley - that's Stripe Rock. Follow the most-beaten trail as it takes you to the east side of the formation (to the right of the formation). Look for a short (about 20 to 25 feet tall) dihedral in a nicely shaded spot. This is the beginning of the route (see photo). Total distance from the parking lot is about 1 - 1.25 miles.

Route Description

This beautiful face climb reaches the top of Stripe Rock in three bolted pitches. The rock is clean and the bolts are abundant making this a good choice for a beginning 5.7 leader.

Pitch 1: 5.7 bolts. Climb up the short dihedral and after clipping the second bolt follow the bolt line up and right to a doubly bolted belay stance.

Pitch 2: 5.7 bolts. Follow the bolt line on the right side of the pitch one belay stance to the second doubly bolted belay. Most of the climbing on this pitch (much like the first pitch) is on frictiony dishes.

Pitch 3: 5.7 bolts. Follow the bolt line to the final bolted belay at the base of a short headwall. The angle eases early on this pitch.

Descent:
Two 60m ropes are required. Do a double 60m rope rap directly down from the topmost belay (the rap line follows another bolted climb). Make sure you have knots tied in the ends of your ropes as you will be rapping to almost the ends of them. Note that the ascent route is to the right of the rap line. Look for another doubly bolted rap station (might have to swing left/right to find it as it is somewhat obscured inside one of the dishes). Another double rope rap brings you to the ground.

F_Rhoderick & mattcbh recommend:
There is a two rope rap on the opposite side. You just have to walk left of the top anchors to the other side of stripe rock. Then head down a ramp slanting to the right. At the end of the ramp you will find a two rap ring anchor.

Essential Gear

Two 60m ropes. 10-12 quick draws. Possibly rap slings and rap rings (don't remember if those are actually needed).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Shirley leading third pitch...Shirley leading pitch one of...Leading pitch two of Cruel...Beginning the lead of pitch...Stripe RockShirley at the third pitch...Cruel Shoes topo
Cruel Shoes