Culvert Canyon, 5.8-5.12 (Block Tower)

Overview/Approach

As with most of my climbing career, one of my main priorities has always been an attempt to enjoy the remote wilderness sans humans and dogs.  During such time climbing has become more of a social activity than backcountry one.  There could not be a more prime example of that transition than Indian Creek, located south of Moab.  Day and Culvert Canyons, located west of Moab, are in stark contrast to Indian Creek in that regard. 

Culvert Canyon is aptly named because a hiking trail that leads to several arches actually has you walking through a culvert under the rail tracks.  For the climbing however, you ascend above the culvert and cross the rail road tracks to the northeast where there are some large boulders.  Climb the soft slopes above to the left side of Block Tower which is substantial and anchors the east end of the wall above.  All of this can be seen from the road. The routes are west facing for the most part.

Three fun trad moderates worth doing are located in the corner formed by Block Tower and the wall.  El Nacho, 5.9, is on Block Tower just before it connects to the wall.  It starts out average at best but offers up a splendid slightly overhanging hand crack corner to a sub-summit on the tower.  Good climbing with great positioning on top.  Finger Food, 5.9, is the thin hands corner where the tower meets the wall.  The interesting climbing however involves a cool #4 flake you surmount out left before toping out to a fixed rap.  LC and KC, 5.9, is the obvious multi pitch wide splitter out on the face to the left of Finger Food.  It receives a 5.9+ rating on mp.com that is well deserved.  The 2^nd pitch is the crux and offers a stout wide lead at the grade, pulling out of the wide in space away from the comfort of the corner.  The 3^rd pitch takes you to the summit of the formation.  The walk off is worth doing, which requires you to rap the 3^rd pitch and take a long walk north below several interesting arches before cutting back south to circumvent Block Tower back to the base of the wall.

Take Potash Road (Wall Street area) west from Highway 191 for over 10 miles.  Park at a small pullout on the north side of the road and hike up the left or right side of the large culvert.  Cross the rail road tracks and ascend to the left side of the obvious tower, where it meets the wall.  Six routes (Block Tower Area) can be reached from that point.

Route Descriptions

Block Tower Area, Left to Right

LC & KC- 3 Pitches-5.9

1st Pitch- 100’-5.9/ Start up the wide crack that is the furthest left of the corner.  An awkward start gives way to mellow climbing at the grade.  Traverse right across a piton to the fixed rap that is more in line with the fist splitter below. 

2nd Pitch- 100'-5.9/ By far the crux pitch.  Climb the relatively easy right facing corner to below the #4 roof.  Stem up and traverse out right of the roof and up the wide crack.  There are two key face features out right to help you regain the crack above the roof via balancey exposed moves on suspect rock.  Continue up to easier ground and place another #4 if you have it to protect a chossy lower angled exit via stacked hands.  Fixed rap atop, contrary to the local guide (2021). 

3rd Pitch- 200'-5.5/ Continue up to the summit via a few 5th class moves surrounded by 3rd and 4th class.  Fixed piton and nut rap atop (2021). 

Despite the local guide, there are raps atop all three pitches in 2021.  You will need double 60m ropes to rap the top pitch.  You can then walk off to the northeast past several interesting arches and then back southwest to the base of the Black Tower (recommended for the hike under the cool arches).  Or you can rap the route.

Gear in the guide and mp.com (2021) calls for large gear to #6.  I saw no use for a #6.  Rather, single to #5, double from #2 through #4. Double 60m ropes to rap the third pitch.  Dow

Finger Food- 70’-5.9***/ An excellent and varied route.  Start up the left facing corner with hands.  Climb the crack in the left wall for one or two moves.   Then stem back between the two and continue to the #4 flake roof.  Layback for a few meters then gain the crack in the flake to finish to the fixed rap.  Single from #.2 to #4.  Doubles #4.  Dow

El Nacho- 100’-5.9**/ Climb the left facing corner to the right of the main corner.  Dirty hands land you to a middle ledge area.  Continue up the steep, beautiful and slightly overhanging left facing corner directly above placing a few perfect #2’s enroute to the fixed anchor on the south shoulder of the Black Tower.  Single #.5 to #3.  Double #1 to #2.  Dow

Unnamed Corner- 5.11***/

Roundhead Ruckus- 5.10/

Southeast Face- 5.11***/ (out on the tower proper)

Gold Bar Tower Area

Hang Nail- 5.8/

Dragon’s Breath- 5.12**/