Cyclops Rock, 5.3-5.12b

Overview/Approach

Cyclops Rock is home to the most popular easy climb in all of Joshua Tree: the “Eye, 5.3***”, which is located dead center on its west face in a beautiful alcove that sort of climbs through a hole near the top, therefore the name.  The Eye is a popular solo climb as it can be walked off the east side.  However, there are several other good routes on Cyclops that do not receive much attention despite being a short walk from the Hidden Valley Campground.   One that comes to mind is Leader’s Fright, 5.8**, which is given a runout rating in the main local guide, Miramontes third edition-2017.  I can’t see how anyone would call it runout however as it protects better than the majority of crack climbs in Jtree at that grade.  Circe, 5.6*, is another decent solo route right next to the Eye.  Circe is not any more challenging than the Eye in my opinion but is a bit more exposed.  On the south sunny side, Spaghetti and Chili, 5.7*, seemed sandbagged for the grade at Jtree, but is worth doing for sure.  I soloed Penelope’s Walk, 5.5, next to it and that route just seemed contrived.  Peewee Rock has two good routes on it that should be combined with anything you climb on Cyclops, Pee Wee’s Piton, 5.10a*, and the Belly Scraper, 5.4.

Pull off the Park Blvd road as you would for Hidden Valley.  Instead of turning left into the campground area, stay on Big Horn Pass road and pull off on the right at the first pullout.  You are starring at Cyclops and Peewee Rock to the east, just 5 minutes from the parking area.

North End

Overnight Sensation- 80’-5.11b/

Northwest, Routes Listed Left to Right as you face this side of the Formation

Thin Red Line- 55’-5.12bR**/

Surface Tension- 60’-5.10d**/

The Eye- 100’-5.3***/ A secure solo climb up the vast chimney of which the top serves as its namesake (sort of a hole=the eye).  Hike/scramble down the back (southeast) side or drag a rope for a full 60m rap from a fixed station.  Dow

Circe- 100’-5.6*/ Another realtively secure solo that split up and right from the start of the Eye via cracks to the right.  Then step up and right again more onto the arete.  Same descent as the Eye.  Dow

Fractured Fissure- 65’-5.10d/

Telegram for Mongo- 65’-5.10cR*/

Leader’s Fright- 65’-5.8R**/ Miramontes calls this route R in his guide?  These must not be typical FAer’s at Jtree because this route protects with gear as good as or better than half the routes in the park.  The rock is stellar and off set nuts and/or cams help, but there seemed to be plenty of gear options.  The chimney up top is cruiser climbing below the grade.  Can do a gear belay and walk off the back when done, the fixed station above Dino Damage is not a rap anchor (2018).  Standard single rack. To access this climb, you climb up 5th class on the left side to reach the cool large belay ledge in the middle of the wall.  Dow

South Face, Routes Listed Left to Right as you face this side of the Formation

Dino Damage- 65’-5.11a*/

Official Route of the 1984 Olympics- 100’-5.10c**/

New Year’s Day- 100’-5.10b*/

Grey Cell Green- 45’-5.11a*/

Spaghetti and Chili- 90’-5.7*/ A sandbag for Jtree.   The layback finger flake offers little to no features out on the wall.  Many Jtree 5.7 leaders would not be able to place gear on the layback of this route.  A bit chossy as well.  The crux is for sure the flake layback near the beginning, then easy climbing up to the finish which offers good climbing for a couple of meters.  Standard single rack.  Rap anchor on top.  When you pull the rope, step far away from the wall to avoid friction.   Dow

Penelope’s Walk- 90’-5.5/ Contrived solo climb with exposure on the finish.  Just climbing a juggy wall to the finish on Spaghetti.  Climb a right to left ramp to a gold streaked dike and continue to migrate up and left until you merge onto Spaghetti. Dow