Peewee Rock, 5.4-5.10d

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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Peewee Rock, 5.4-5.10d
Created On: May 25, 2018
Last Edited On: Jun 10, 2018

Overview/Approach

Pee Wee's Piton, 5.10a*
Dow leading Pee Wee's Piton, 5.10a*

Peewee Rock is at the epicenter of one of the largest climbing tourist social scenes in all of California, yet does not draw much attention.  It is the formation located just south of the much more popular Cyclops Rock.  On a busy weekend day, the Eye, 5.3***, on Cyclops could have a dozen or more roped parties on it with numerous solos weaving through.  Intersection Rock is no doubt the most climbed formation in the entire park and is located just on the other side of the road (west) from Peewee. 

Peewee Rock has three published routes on it as of 2018, all located on its northwest face therefore relatively shaded.  Pee Wee’s Piton, 5.10a*, is actually a pretty damn good bolted climb covering 80’ in 7 bolts.  Belly Scraper, 5.4, is an appropriately named fun traverse solo that crosses Pee Wee’s Piton.  All three of the routes can rap from a fixed station atop Pee Wee’s Piton.

Park at the pullout on the right side of the road (east) in front of Cyclops.  The trail east is well marked. Just turn right fairly immediate for the northwest face of Peewee.  Not even 5 minutes from the vehicle.

Route Descriptions, Left to Right as Facing the NW Wall

Belly Scraper- 120’-5.4/ Secure solo.  The name is appropriate because once you are on the rightward traverse across the face there are times the ledge is narrow enough that you are no doubt scraping your belly if you have an extra pound or two.  Head up the obvious wide chasm to the left of Pee Wee.  Stem right over to the obvious narrow ledge traverse with some exposure here and there.  Go all the way right until you can head up a hand crack in softer rock to the top.  Traverse back left on a downward sloping ledge to the fixed rap atop Pee Wee’s Piton.   Dow

Pee Wee’s Piton- 80’-5.10a*/ A fully bolted climb as shown in the guide, although it could be mixed.  There is a perfect finger gear placement at the crux move.  A reachy clip (7 total) off the deck and then trend up and right to a blind but positive left hand mini arch then a high step with your right foot for a fun mantle.  The main crux is clipping the 2nd or 3rd bolt (I forget which)  at the end of a mini ramp with an intermittent finger crack, trending left.  There is a ledge below and it is a reach for the clip from the good finger pocket in the crack and on top of that the hanger is a spinner (I would take a small assortment of finger pieces next time).  Straighten out from the ramp onto slab and continue to the top on easier ground to a fixed cold shut top-rope/rap.  Stays shaded most of the day.  Dow

The Oui-Oui- 80'-5.10d/