Devils Tower Climber's Log
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|National Park Service|
U.S. Department of the Interior Devils Tower National
PO Box 10
Devils Tower, WY 82714
307 467-5283 phone
307 467-5350 fax
DEVILS TOWER NATIONAL MONUMENT
April 20, 2010 FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE 2010-06
Devils Tower Climbing Routes Temporarily Closed to Protect Nesting Falcons
To protect nesting sites currently being used by prairie falcons (Falco mexicanus), the National Park Service (NPS) will temporarily close climbing routes along the west face of Devils Tower beginning April 20, 2010. When necessary, such closures are an annual occurrence established under the monument’s 1995 Climbing Management Plan, with authority from the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. The areas to be closed include climbing routes on the west face between and including the “Vulture” and “Abject Cathexis” (routes #154-176 in the Devils Tower climbing handbook). The “Tulgey Wood” and “El Matador” rappel routes are also closed. The west edge of the Tower summit is closed to climbers. The “Meadows” rappel route remains open and is the recommended rappel route for climbers in this area. Climbing and rappel route closures may change based on the location and behavior of the nesting falcons.
The closure is implemented not only to protect the birds, but also to protect climbers, as prairie falcons are known to defensively dive in order to protect their nests. Prairie falcons are extremely defensive of their nests and are easily driven from an area. The presence of climbers near or above falcon nests is distressing to parent birds. Too much disturbance from climbing activities may force falcons to abandon eggs or chicks.
More than 190 other climbing routes on the Tower remain open. Climbers can find a list of currently closed routes at www.nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/currentclimbingclosures.htm, the park climbing kiosk, climber registration office, visitor center, or administration building.
NPS staff will continue to survey the Tower to determine presence or absence of nesting prairie falcons. Areas without nesting falcons will be reopened by May 15. Areas with falcon nests will remain closed until young falcons fledge, generally between July 15 and August 1. The closure areas may change based on the location of nesting pairs.
Prior observations suggest prairie falcons use the Tower with an affinity for the west and northeast faces, where pairs nested from 2005 to 2007. In 2008, falcons were observed nesting on the south face of the Tower. In recent years, young falcons were observed to have fledged from nests on the Tower in 1996, 1998, 1999, 2006, and 2007. In 2009, the falcons nested and fledged away from the Tower.
For further information on the climbing closures, please contact the monument’s chief of resource management, Mark Biel, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212.
|Posted Apr 23, 2010 1:44 pm|
|bigwally||Back in the Saddle, again |
Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2010
|After a Great Winter of climbing/guiding/teaching/learning in Southern California, it is still Wonderful to get back to this Tower. Climbed with Virginia's son, Richard. Yup, did the Durrance in some chill temps. The winter has moved a significant amount of loose rock onto the ledges; some poor potential outcomes, for sure. Smile, have a Great Time, and be careful with the kicking off the loose stuff. See Ya when You get here !!!|
|Posted Apr 23, 2010 1:42 pm|
|JonW||Durrance Route |
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009
|This route really isn't climbing and mostly involve chimneys. The pitches are really really short and the rock is greasy. I won't be doing this route again. It sucks.|
|Posted Aug 4, 2009 3:32 pm|
|Hotoven||Will climb someday|
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2003
|Was to young to climb, but I will be back for sure to dominate it!|
|Posted May 12, 2009 1:06 pm|
|peerzat||on Durrance...RAP OFF THE NOSE |
Date Climbed: Nov 1, 2008
|not very fun descending in the dark much less have to ASCEND twice! first to undo the knot from a crack, then just to flip it over the nose rather than the f'n side of it...exactly as the new guide book highlights! oh well, I like tobasco on my eggs, too. just waiting for those aliens to abduct us...but, alas, the burger at the restaurant a bit later was even tastier.|
|Posted May 3, 2009 4:30 pm|
|McCannster||El Matador and Durrance |
Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2009
|This turned into an epic. We got a late start (1:30 pm), looked up at the route and thought to ourselves "oh, that doesn't look too bad...". It was a tough route! My leader aided some moves, while I struggled following. We got to the summit in the dark, could not find the rap station, and decided to huddle for warmth and spend the night up there. In the morning we rapped down and was confronted by a ranger about our bivy. Turned out Bivying was not allowed, which we didn't know and weren't planning on doing, but he gave us a warning. It was an epic climb.|
Came back a year later and did Durrance, as well as redeemed ourselves on El Mat. Still didn't get the crux pitch clean, but led P1 and 3 and stayed with Frank.
|Posted Apr 13, 2009 8:48 pm|
|needarealname||finally climbed it|
|Ever since I was in 2nd grade, I'd wanted to climb Devil's Tower. We were living in Michigan at the time, and my dad had me read an article about a man stranded on top. I don't remember the guys name or even the whole situation. All I remember is thinking "I want to be on top of there some day." Well, I made it. It was a wonderful June day. It wasn't too hot or too cold. We met a chipmunk half way up and he escorted us the rest of the way. Although there were other climbers, we had the top to ourselves. It was definately an enjoyable day.|
|Posted Mar 26, 2009 1:53 am|
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2008
|top of fourth pitch of Durrance, got baked off though... |
|Posted Sep 25, 2008 11:39 am|
|Brian Kalet||Durrance |
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2008
|Rated as a 5.8 in Devils Tower Climbing.|
|Posted Sep 13, 2008 4:40 pm|
|Thomas Gurviez||just the touristic tour by hiking|
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2008
|amazing peak, but not climbed because of lacking material and hurt co-climbers, that's a pity...|
|Posted Aug 28, 2008 11:08 am|
|Dave S||Durrance and others |
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008
|Climbed the Durrance route, Tulgey Wood, and El Cracko Diablo with Justin Mages. Great climbing!|
|Posted Aug 19, 2008 6:23 pm|
|Rocker Paully||via El Cracko |
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2008
|led the second pitch of El Cracko then shot up to the top and rapped off, I'll bring water next time!|
|Posted Jul 14, 2008 8:07 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 1987
|First rockclimb ever. A great introduction to what has been a fun hobby.|
|Posted Jun 27, 2008 8:25 pm|
Date Climbed: Apr 18, 2008
|Climbed with Brian F. Sight tubes approach woulda been fine...had we stayed on the route. I did the whale move to get into the 1st pitch chimney. I pulled over expecting room to turn - dang that thing was narrow :) Brian missed the first placement on Cussin Crack and wound up placing nothing - lesson learned about that first placement :) Durrance Crack seemed easier than expected but still 5.7ish. Took the Bailey Direct finish - my favorite pitch. Rapped the route. Perfect wheather window. Saw bigwally at the base heading off to do a project with an 800 pound big-wall bag. Drove straight through from Spokane then back - brutal.|
|Posted May 11, 2008 7:27 pm|
|First climbed Devil's Tower on Soler in 1995.|
|Posted Jan 14, 2008 12:32 am|
|Ice Man Jerry Van||Durranc Route |
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 1981
|First climbed Devils Tower with Big Wally in 1981.He was a wonderful climber then and one now|
|Posted Nov 12, 2007 9:34 pm|
Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2007
|Frank Sanders and I headed up Durrance on a gloriously sunny afternoon for my first attempt at reaching the top. Despite my lack of experience and anything like understanding, we reached our destination about three and a half hours later for an awesome sunset! Just like childbirth, it was an experience rich and rewarding, full of a sense of accomplishment and elation. Thank you Frank! Could only have been better, and that not by much, if we had brought the drums along.|
|Posted Oct 23, 2007 11:48 am|
|RModelli||great climb! |
Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2007
|We had a great weather day and the climb was great. We summited ia Durrance.|
Rappelled off in the dark and rain....
|Posted Oct 4, 2007 7:28 am|
|Climbed this in the fall of 1996. We did the Durrance Route but skipped the last pitch and finished up on the Bailey Direct variation. (150' 5.5)|
|Posted Sep 23, 2007 3:55 pm|
|brutus of wyde||Honeymoon Road Trip |
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2007
|Chased out of first the Canadian Rockies, then the Pacific Northwest by torrential rains, Nurse Ratchet and I arrived at the Tower. Spent a sweltering afternoon scouting the Bowling Alley approach to the Durrance route, then retired to the tent. Nurse led the bowling alley start in the dark by headlamp, then turned over the wide cracks to me. What a birthday present, and what a Monthiversary present to each other!|
Fantastic, mellow climbing up through the Bailey Direct Finish landed us on top in the morning hours, with the summit to ourselves.
Other routes climbed at the tower included the first pitch of El Matador (Brutus' legspan can't handle the second pitch) and New Wave, led in superb style by Nurse Ratchet.
So glad we made the detour!
Frank, it was great to meet you at the base of New Wave, and THANK YOU SO MUCH for your offer of hospitality. We definitely would have stopped by to visit and/or camp, but the road beckoned us and we followed, to out next stop, City of Rocks. Thanks again, and see you in the mountains!
|Posted Sep 12, 2007 12:28 pm|