Disneyland Dome, 5.9-5.12a

Overview/Approach

 
On our way to Bighorn Mating Grotto to climb one of the best 5.10 cracks in the whole park, Woo Li Master (5.10a), we hit up the south face of Disneyland Dome. I advise others to do the same. We actually combined Sergeant Rock, Surprise Rock, Disneyland and Big Horn Mating for a full day out of crack climbing. The must do moderate objective on Disneyland Dome is a sunny finger-hand crack named Jungle Cruise (5.10b). The most unique feature on this dome is its surprisingly clean patina jugs, of the elephant ear size. No matter which route you start, most are going to finish on steep and run-out (but easy) patina which is the main pro (slung) after you exit the lower half of the south face. The west face has a fanatical traverse aptly named Mental Bankruptcy (5.10b) that climbs a bolted large continuous dike for three traversing pitches. The rap for the south face routes requires a single 60m rope rap between Disneyland and Thrutcher Dome which is a correction to Miramontes book which has it at 120’. 

From the Pink House Ruins, continue west past Foolproof Tower on the left (High Strung, 5.9). The Astrodomes (north and south) are in the distance to the southwest. Lenticular Dome is straight ahead. Keep in the rightward washes that pass Surprise Rock and the unique Freak Brothers Dome, both on the right. After Freak Brothers Dome, Disneyland Dome becomes visible to the northwest. Cut right in a variety of washes beyond the Red Obelisk and make a beeline for the obvious south face of Disneyland Dome (one of the more heavily varnished (darker) faces in Jtree). Scramble up to Jungle Cruise (which splits the wall) from the brushy gully below the south face.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the South Wall  

• Mad Hatter- 5.10b*


• Jungle Cruise- 5.10b**
One of my better leads at Jtree. The run-out is no worries to the base of the crack where there is bomber small gear. Then a pumpy lay-back to finger lock sequence with a small hand jam just when you need it. The top half of the crack eases considerably off the grade. The run-out up and right is steep mid fifth. Take long slings to sling an elephant ear sized patina or two. Gear belay. Rap between Disney and Thrutcher with a 60m no worries. Dow


• Enchanted Stairway- 5.9**
Not deserving of the two stars Miramontes gives it. This is not a sustained 5.9 by Jtree standards. A couple of slab moves at the grade traverse left and up through a couple of bolts. From there it is mid fifth via slinging large patina. Rap between Disney and Thrutcher with a 60m no worries. Dow


• Brass Monkey- 5.12a**

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Wall


• Mental Bankruptcy- 5.10b**


• Fantasia- 5.10b*

Images

View Disneyland Dome, 5.9-5.12a Image Gallery - 6 Images