Thrutcher Dome, 5.7-5.11b

Overview/Approach

Thrutcher Dome is a remote thought when it comes to Joshua Tree destinations.  It caught my attention almost a decade  ago when I climbed to the summit of Disneyland Dome which is home to a few moderate classics like Enchanted Stairway and Jungle Cruise.  On the north face rap of Disneyland you are staring at the two moderate chimney climbs on Thrutcher: Thrutcher, 5.9PG** and Invasion of My Privacy, 5.7*.  These are the two obvious features on Thrutcher’s south face.  Its namesake is a tall leaning flake chimney and is an excellent chimney lead sustained at the grade.  For whatever reason, Miramontes has left the namesake route of the dome out of his local guide, but it can be found on MP.com.   Invasion is worth doing, but is not as interesting nor challenging of a chimney as Thrutcher.  Desert Storm, 5.10c, is not sustained at the grade and is a bit of a contrived line on bad rock located between the two beforementioned chimney climbs.  Life Without Principle and Whales on Ice are located on the towers below and immediately east of Thrutcher Dome.

Hike into South Wonderland as you would for Disneyland Dome.  You pass by Surprise Rock and Freak Brothers on your right as well as the wash that leads to the Red Obelisk, start aiming for Disneyland Dome’s broad south face to the northwest.  Right before you start scrambling up to Disneyland, take the right gully up between Disneyland and Thrutcher.  The routes are fairly obvious and immediate on your right.  A 70m rope just gets you down the shared fixed rap anchor on the main south face.

Routes Listed Left to Right as You Face the South Face

Thrutcher- 120’-5.9PG**/ The namesake route which climbs the most characteristic feature (flake-chimney leaning pillar) on Thrutcher Dome is somehow missing from Miramontes guide.  This flaring chimney would get more stars for length and being sustained at the grade if it had better rock.  Chimney and off-width technique will be employed.  I led it with a single to #4 which is more than adequate for a seasoned leader.  Others could use a #5 and/or #6 as well.  Start in a recess at the base and move up and left to engage the flaring chimney formed by a leaning pillar against the main wall.  Mostly face out using quite a bit of squeeze chimney technique, particularly when moving in to place gear.  It continues to narrow as the rock improves the higher you get.  Pull out over a small roof to the chossy summit of the pillar and finish on chossy edges to a fixed rap off of a ledge below the wall just above.  Single from #.5 to #4.  Optional bigger gear or extra #4’s.  Full single 70m rope rap.  Route receives sun all day.  Dow

Desert Storm- 125’-5.10cR/ It made sense to try and establish a bolted line between the two decent chimney climbs however this line leaves much to be desired.  Start up Invasion of my Fantasy and immediately gain the left wall.  Climb through three spacious bolts.  I never quite felt the 5.10c, but the movement is fairly sustained 5.10- on edges.  After the 3^rd bolt, for whatever reason, there are no more.  I guess the FAers intent is to escape back right to Invasion.   Shares fixed rap above and to the left of the large yucca on top of this section of the wall.  Full single 70m rope rap.  Route receives sun all day.  Dow

Invasion of My Privacy- 130’-5.7*/ Worth doing if already climbing Thrutcher.  I first spied this chimney when rapping the backside of Disneyland over a decade prior.  It looked steeper and more amazing from that perspective.   I consider this chimney a secure solo whereas the rock quality on the Thrutcher chimney makes a solo of that chimney more challenging for sure.  The entry moves are above grade just a bit, but the rest of it flows well at the grade.  Near the end, climb a ramp up and left to behind the large yucca to locate the shared fixed rap.  The rock on the ramp is of good quality compared to the Thrutcher route exit.  Single to #4.  Optional larger gear or extra #4.  70m rope.  Route receives sun all day.  Dow

Life Without Principle- 5.11b/

Whales on Ice- 5.10a/