ApproachTrip is 1100 m day and is rated difficult in Kane guide book. Class 3/4 scrambling on very rotten loose rock.
Approach by the good hiking trail which starts on the north side of where Helen Creek crosses the highway. The trail goes up over a ridge and then back down along the left side of the creek. Follow the trail which crosses the creek until you reach the fourth avalanche path. This leads up to a gully between peak 3 and 4.
Note on Dow's route page he went up the second avalanche path and went up the gully between peak 4 and 5.
closeup of ascent gully.
Route descriptionTrip is 1100 m day and is rated difficult in Kane guide book. Class 3/4 scrambling on very rotten loose rock.
Ascend the rock gully between peaks 3 and 4 and when gully splits take the RH branch.
Follow ledges right around buttress under yellow rock to cairn and then up a hidden gully/groove to summit of peak 4.
To ascend peak 3 - go along base of peak 3 past first chimney to a second one which can be scrambled.
Looking down on peak 2 which is a climb.
Looking South at peak 5 and Mount Hector.
Looking North at Cirque Peak with the Lyalls, White Pyramid, Chephren, etc.