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13612 Hits
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77.48% Score
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8 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.10972°N / 8.00466°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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AD, Rock to UIAA IV (4b) |
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Overview
The traverse of the Dri Horlini is a very nice rock climb which can be easily completed in half a day by an experienced party. Due to it's lack of glacier approach, limited height and short duration, there is no need for an early start. The ridge itself contains some very nice and sometimes exposed passages of rock climbing up to UIAA VI. There is some protection in place but it's necessary to carry some nuts and friends with you. Bandslings are very usefull.
The traverse is described well in Valais Alps East Selected Climbs by Swindin and Fleming.
Approach
The started of the climb is reached in about 20 minutes starting from the Almagellerhütte. Follow the yellow marks painted on the rocks through a large boulderfield until you reach the foot of the SE Face at the beginning of the ridge. Climb up an easy an earthy ramp and the traverse starts on your right on a ledge by a large block.Route Description
From the large block the route starts over some easy slabs. There are some fixed points in place. After 2 pitches you reach a belay below an overhang. Climb the crack until the overhang (IV) and then pass it on the left side. On top is a good belay. From here follow the ridge over the first and the second summit. The climbing is quite easy. After the second summit, climbing is exposed and 3 small steps has to be down-climbed. Climb the slab of the gendarme directly (IV-, piton in place) and make a 12m-rappel from the good belay on top of the gendarme. From here continu to the third and last summit over easy ground. Some big cairns mark the end of the climbing.
Follow the ridge over stony ground untill you can descend (after about 300m) in a couloir with some loose rock on your right side.