East Face

Overview

This Chilean route is easily accessed from a base camp near Incahuasi, but that's about all it has going for it. El Fraile is mostly a giant pile of loose material, and any route ascending from the north or east is going to involve a lot of scree (and very little else). If this route was deserving of a name, it ought to be called "Rainbow Ridge" for all the interesting colours of rock that will break off the mountain as you try to grab them. 

The south and west aspects of the mountain have more variety of ridges and solid material, and can generally be expected to provide a more engaging climb.

Getting There

Hide your bicycle or 2WD vehicle in the gravel pit about 7 km past Laguna Verde along R31. Continue on foot or with 4WD towards and through the large, black-sloped valley following the prominent jeep tracks. After following this trail for 12 km, you will arrive at the base of Incahuasi. Unless El Fraile is your only objective, you may as well camp here. Depending on recent snowfall, water may be obtained in the gulleys of Incahuasi (4950 MASL), on the lower slopes of El Fraile, from a wind-deposited snowpatch at [27°0'10.14"S  68°20'31.90"W], higher on the slopes of either mountain, or perhaps nowhere at all if it's been very dry.

Route Description

Numerous variations are possible; all climbs from the north or east will be similar.

Approach the mountain by ascending a broad gulley west of the pass. At the upper end of this gulley - at about 5400 MASL and nearly on the international border - head directly up-slope. Try to keep to any of several rocky ridges protruding from the scree, some of which offer marginally more secure footing. The summit plateau will be reached at about 5900 MASL. Cross to the higher northern summit over gentler scree or snow-covered slopes to reach the final few steeper meters before the summit itself. 

To descend, pick one of the smoother scree lines - good options both north and south of the ascent line - and plunge-step down until the scree thickens to coarser rocks and the slope begins to get shallower. The scree ascent will probably take 3 hours or more, but coming back down shouldn't be more than 15 minutes.

As of 2022, there was a small notebook in the summit cairn that contained entries back to at least 2003, as well as a bamboo pole that appeared to have been struck by lightning. It'd be great if someone could bring up a little box or container to hold the notebook so that it might last for a while longer. It's a cool little piece of climbing memorobilia!

Essential Gear

• Hiking shoes
• Water
• Snacks
• Crampons/microspikes (optional)
• Trekking poles (optional)

External Links

Add External Links text here.