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East Ridge, 5.5

East Ridge, 5.5

East Ridge, 5.5

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Object Title: East Ridge, 5.5

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.5 (YDS)

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 7 Votes


Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: May 22, 2005 / Jul 30, 2006

Object ID: 165166

Hits: 5540 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Lady MacDonald dominates the northern skyline of Canmore, Alberta, gateway to the Canadian Rockies through Banff National Park. Take the 2nd Canmore exit off of the TransCanada as you are heading west (downtown exit). Turn right on Benchlands Trail and the road will bend back east. Take another right on Elk Run Blvd and take an immediate left turn into the Cougar Canyon trailhead.

The scramble route is a fairly immediate turn after the trail narrows. The East Ridge does not start off the canyon floor for another 20-30 minutes. You will pass many sport climbing crags in route. The start of the East Ridge will be on your left prior to the fork in Cougar Creek. We did observe one flag marker. The trail ascends immediately, but is not obviously made out unless you are playing close attention. 30-40 minutes from your car.

Route Description

This is approximately a 4400' day. Ascend through tree line following the East Ridge until you reach solid rock. Ascend this first pitch as a scramble. Upon the next ledge, traverse slightly left looking for a blocky corner. This corner allows for protection if one desires. It will be bolted at the top. Then traverse left again for another pitch with another corner. Again bolted at the top, room for pro if desired. These two technical sections will land you on the ridge itself.

I soloed this ridge, however, the other 4 in my party remained roped. There is exposure and therefore, plenty of bolts. Excluding a few interesting pieces, blocks, etc. in-between, this ridge runs relativly uneventfull straight for the summit of Lady "Mac" for approximately 2000'. You will eventually observe the scramble route to your left passing through an old tea house (never completed) and helipad area. You will meet any scramblers on the false summit. From there, you have a narrow ridge to traverse over to the true summit. Again, some might rope up for this section. There is a register.

You do not have to return this narrow ridge all the way back to the false summit for descent. Return to a notch in the ridge and descend scree while picking your angle back to the helipad and the scramble route which will land you back to Cougar Creek trail.

Essential Gear

Helmet, Harness, Small Rack, Rope, Boots for Rock, a homemade Magic Bar from the Summit Cafe (good place for breakfast and buying a sack lunch-on your left before turning right on Elk Run Blvd)


ESE Ridge above 2nd step - knife edgeESE Ridge - upper part2nd Corner on the East Ridge,...Upper rock ridgeLooking down Second RockbandRidge above 2nd band.Ridge above 2nd rock band
Upper rock bandLayback crack 5.5 on 2nd stepUpper rock ridgeLooking down upper rock band.Start of upper ridgeAvalanche we kicked offESE Ridge - upper part
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