East Ridge

Approach

This is a 2700’+/- ascent day. This route is only a scramble if free of snow. Only experienced and competent individuals should proceed beyond the slabby traverse with any prevailing snow conditions. Start at the Little Highwood Pass day use parking. Proceed west along the gravel road for approximately 1000' until you view the pass between Mount Elpoca and Gap Mountain. You are to gain this pass. You will observe from the road a spine of shale and trees leading up left center. While ascending this ground, you should more than likely run into abundant mountain sheep. Bear and moose scat was observed on the ascent and Forget-Me-Nots, Wild Strawberries, Glacier Lilies, Wild Crocus and Stone Crop also litter the landscape.

Route Description

Once at the col, would be a good time for a snack or lunch while you check out the route to climbers left. The crux comes early via a traverse left over a very steep (and potentially deadly) rock worn wash gully. Since my partner this day remained at the col, you have a clear photo of me crossing this crux above. Once across this traverse, you have approximately 1000’ of mostly hands on scrambling up the east ridge. Once at the summit, the views for such a insignificant climb are stellar, including the big three of Kananaskis, Mts. Joffre, Assiniboine and Sir Douglas. You also get a good birds eye view of the Mts. Tyrwhitt-Pocaterra scramble and the Kananaskis Lakes below. Mount Elpoca, sharing the pass to the east, was shedding rock and ice constantly on my ascent giving up quite the show.

There was no summit register in 2004, but is in 2005. Return the same. On ascent and descent I chose a low line across the treacherous slab wash gully to avoid the ultimate misstep.

Essential Gear

Alpine Ax if Snow Conditions Prevail, Helmet, Gaiters and Bear Spray

Images

View East Ridge Image Gallery - 9 Images