Edge of Time (5.9) : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Edge of Time (5.9) is the signature climb at Jurassic Park (and is featured on the cover of Gillett's Estes Park guidebook) - an absolute must do if you're in the area. The climb is located on the north end of The Fin. There's a large, sandy open area just north of the climb.

Route Description

There are three bolts and one fixed pin on the route leading to a two bolt anchor with lowering rings. The crux comes early - the first couple moves off the ground. Clip the first bolt (easy), and then surmount the weird, right pulling arete. The difficulty is not being pulled off to the right as you try to climb up. There are a couple good spots for feet, but you have to work the balance. Once over that part, the climb remains interesting up to the second bolt (which is high enough that there is significant ground fall potential until you clip it). From here, the climb is shear enjoyment. Continue up the fine arete past the pin in a good horizontal crack. The arete steepens here, but the rock remains great. Climb up to the final bolt and then move slightly left to reach the anchors. This is the only other difficult part of the climb. The view from the top of the fin is not to be missed.

The Descent

Rap the route - if you lower, the rope passes over a ledge and you can hear it scrape across the rock. The best place to belay a second is from the fall line of the rappel at the bottom and out from the rock. Great, great route.

Essential Gear

Four quickdraws and material for the two-bolt anchor at the top.

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