Ironically probably the hardest part of the Mittellegi Route (presuming you use the fixed ropes) is the 1st pitch (about VS 4c)off the Challifirn Glacier just to get to the hut! Also the guy who runs the hut is an absolute legend! :-)
"Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end."