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Mittellegi Hut

 
Mittellegi Hut

Page Type: Hut/Campground

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.58560°N / 8.02649°E

Object Title: Mittellegi Hut

Season: Summer

Elevation: 11007 ft / 3355 m

 

Page By: hansw

Created/Edited: Mar 5, 2007 / Jun 22, 2014

Object ID: 275466

Hits: 13848 

Page Score: 90.12%  - 31 Votes 

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Overview

 
Eiger video
Video film about an ascent of the Eiger by the Mittellegigrat. Samuel Brawand tells the story of the first ascent in 1921. Note the Hut.

 
Emergency shelter on the Mittellegi ridge
The steel pipe bivouac hut.

 
Free fall at the Eiger Mittelegi Hut
The old hut had facilities.


The Mittellegi Hut at 3355 m is beautifully situated on the knife edge sharp Mittellegigrat 615 m under the summit of the Eiger, the famous Bernese Oberland mountain. The hut offers two of the most breathtaking views in the Alps, to the north side green pastoral landscapes with the village Grindelwald far below, and to the south side massive glaciers and mountains.

The Mittellegigrat was first ascended 10 September 1921 by the Japanese Yoko Maki together with the three local guides Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand, and Fritz Steuri. Maki donated a sum of 10.000 Franken for a hut to be built near the place where they spent the night prior to their ascent. The hut built in 1924 had room for 16 persons.

A steel pipe bivouac hut was built in 1986 a few meters from the old hut offering room for further 14 persons.

In 2001 after 77 years the first Mittellegi Hut was replaced by a new larger hut with 40 beds. The old hut was moved to a location close to the railway station Eigergletscher and now serves as a small museum.

Since 1995 the Mittellegi Hut has a resident guardian during July and August. Typically (as in the summer 2003) over 700 climbers stay overnight before making an attempt on the Mittellegigrat the next day.

Getting there and Routes

View to Eismeer station from Challifirn
Snow melting in streams over the Eismeer windows.

Abseil from Eismeer
Abseil from the tunnel door below Eismeer station.

The Eiger page provides overall information on how to get there.

A dark and icy tunnel leads from the Eismeer station at 3160m on Jungfrau railway out to the Fieschergletscher on the south side of the Eiger. Turn left and pass the sérac area and continue up the snow slope along the Challifirn to the rocks. Climb the rocks (III-) to the hut. Allow 2-2½ hours. Beware of stonefall all the way.

The hut can also be reached from the north by a longer and more difficult route (D). Other alternatives are via the Bergli Hut or the new Ostegg Hut.



Trip report: Eiger – A trip on the knife edge - TR & Movie

Pictures of the route from the tunnel (by RolandJ, 2007)

Below the Mittellegi Hut
Climbing the slabs direct to the Mittellegi Hut.
 
Mitellegi with old hut
The hut seen from the Mittellegigrat. Photo by alpenkalb.
[img:397677:aligncenter:small:Climbing the slabs direct to the Mittellegi Hut.]

Maps and Books

[img:179150:alignleft:small:The hut seen from the Mittellegigrat. Photo by alpenkalb.]
1:25.000 Nr. 1249, Finsteraarhorn
1:50.000 Nr. 264, Jungfrau
Swindin, Les: Bernese Oberland, Selected Climbs, Alpine Club Guide Books, 1993
Munter, Werner und Margrit: Berner Alpen, Rother, München, 1984

Historical books:
Eiger 1252-1988, Bergführerverein Grindelwald, 1988.
Rubi, Rudolf: Im Tal von Grindelwald, Band II, Verlag Sutter Druck, Grindelwald, 1986.

Google Maps


Show larger map

External Links

The new Mittellegi Hut

Map

Images

Eiger. Mittellegi hut. In...Mittellegi Ridge from hut.Eiger - Mittellegi RidgeLooking back on the MittellegigratEarly lonely morning on the MittellegigratFree fall at the Eiger Mittelegi HutMittelegi Hutte
Grindelwald from Mittellegi HutBelow the Mittellegi HutEiger videoSunset at Mittellegi Hut - September 2008Mittellegi hutApproach to Mittellegi HutMittellegi hut and ridge