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El Segundo Buttress

El Segundo Buttress


Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: El Segundo Buttress

Route Type: Technical Rock

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: III, 5.8, A1 or 5.9+

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: Craig Peer

Created/Edited: Oct 17, 2002 / Oct 23, 2002

Object ID: 157174

Hits: 2450 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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From the town of Lone Pine on Highway 395, head west on the Whitney Portal Road. For El Segundo Buttress. Follow the road until it makes a single switchback near the top of the road. Above the east end of the switchback two buttresses can be seen ( there is a gully with trees between the two buttresses ). The left buttress is El Segundo, the right one is Premiere.

Route Description

Start on the right side of the buttress to the right of a large tree. Pitch 1 - either follow a 3rd class ledge left to a left facing open book ( 5.7 ) or climb a right facing corner ( also 5.7 ) up to the left facing corner. belay at a ledge. Pitch 2 - face climbing left of a left facing corner leads to a 3rd class ledge. Climb up a chimney to a chockstone, traverse right and climb cracks to a belay ( 165' , 5.5 ). Move your belay up a few feet ( class 3 ) to the next start of difficulties. Pitch 3 is class 4 and leads to a ledge. Pitch 4 - climb up to a bush ( 5.6 ), then climb up and right past a tree to a belay tree ( some 5.8 ). Pitch 5 is the crux - face and crack climbing ( 5.8, A1 or 5.9++ ) leads up and right to a ramp ( class 4 ) which is followed up and left.. Traverse right on face / knobs ( 5.4 ) to a crack and a belay tree. Class 4 climbing leads to the top.

See the route topo under overview photos for more information on this climb.

Essential Gear

Nuts and Friends / TCU's - tiny to 3 1/2". To climb this in Fred Beckeys original style ( with aid ), carry 2 bathooks.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and Corrections

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spparkerRoute Comment

Hasn't voted

As of 2004 all of the old Becky bolts were replaced with nice fat ones and big hangers. I recommend taking the right hand variation on Pitch 2 which is a nice hand crack through a bulge. The left variation still has old bolts on it.

No need for bat hooks or any other such stuff.

A fun climb that after a few more ascents will clean up nicely.
Posted Jun 3, 2005 7:42 pm

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