Elephant Arches, 5.9-5.10d

Overview/Approach

Granite towers and domes, unlike sandstone, rarely take on the perfect shape of their identifiable namesake.  For example, many of the towers in the Moab area reflect what they are named after:  the Three Penguins, Moses, Washer Woman, etc.  However, there is one such dome in Joshua Tree that, at certain angles, looks just like what it was named after, Elephant Arches.  Arches are not near as prevalent in granite to begin with, much less twin arches, which in this case form the tusks of an elephant head (pics).  Although this feature is cool, it is one of the more obscure climbing features in the whole park.  It is well hidden in South Wonderland behind Bighorn Mating Grotto, Disneyland and Diarrhea Domes.  Its south wall is also well protected by a fierce collection of brush and cacti.  Add to the ugly approach that there are only three published routes as of 2019, this feature is rarely visited.  That said, two of the three routes are damn good 5.10 trad climbs.

True Democracy, 5.9*, is the furthest left route and involves a runout start up a closed flared chimney runnel on paper thin chossy rock.  Not recommended.  Vice President, 5.10bR**, is an outstanding varnished crack up the gut of the formation.  The start offers fun physical moves below the grade.  You enter a well featured finger crack and climb it to horizontals.  The run out section is several meters of slab above the horizontals that reconnects you to another bomber varnished finger crack above.  Black President, 5.10d***, climbs better than it looks from below.  The runout start is well below the grade.  The crux is a slab move or two above a bolt located above the horizonal that gains access to the steep, but well protected upper finish. 

Park as you would for South Wonderland, a dirt lot just 5 minutes from the “Pink House”.  Hike northwest into the heart of South Wonderland.  Freak Brothers is a stand out feature (multiple roofs, infamous traverse route, I Can’t Believe It is a Girdle, 5.10a***) on your right.  The next major feature on your right is Disneyland Dome.  Pass it and turn right into a nasty vegetated col between Disneyland and the next major rocks north. Cut left out of the col and bushwhack brush and cacti to yet another opening on your right.  Bushwhack through this narrow passage to a cactus filled area with the obvious Elephant Arches (twin arches) straight ahead.  Fight the brush left to the base of the routes.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the South Wall

True Democracy- 120’-5.9*/

Vice President- 120’-5.10bR**/ The obvious dark splitter in the middle of the face.  Hand jam mantle starts out of a stem and gets you into the well varnished crack.  Fingers and hands get you to the large horizontal.  Get a solid finger piece in and take on the closed seam above via slab climbing at the grade on grainy rock (runout).  Re-enter a great finger crack for the finish.  Dow

Black President- 120’-5.10d***/ This climb climbs better than it looks and thus the recommendation in the local guide no doubt.  It is plenty chossy and does not receive many ascents despite the three stars, but the movement is good.  Start through slab through a bolt to an easy but fun layback seam/crack.  By far the crux is a slab move above the 2nd (and last) bolt.  There is a positive reach up and right, about two moves at the grade.  Then up a stem box and more intermittent cracks.  Dow