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EMILIUS 33 ROUTES HISTORY Climbings Scrambles & Ascents (Third Part)

 
EMILIUS 33 ROUTES HISTORY Climbings Scrambles & Ascents (Third Part)

Page Type: Route

Location: Aosta Valley Gr. Brissogne/Pollein/Charvensod/Cogne Communes, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.67905°N / 7.38460°E

Object Title: EMILIUS 33 ROUTES HISTORY Climbings Scrambles & Ascents (Third Part)

Route Type: Mountaineering

Route Quality: 
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Page By: OsvaldoCardellina

Created/Edited: May 25, 2013 / Aug 20, 2014

Object ID: 850719

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Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Overview

It is never easy to reconstruct the history of Alpine mountaineering and, when the maintenance work of man, of a mountain. Not even the most famous ones. We may think that what it means for those seeds or unknown altogether! Become the search for a needle in a haystack. But with a little good will in any good quality is achieved, without claiming to have obtained the Absolute Perfection, that is not everything in this world. Incidentally, in the words of the Academic Renato Chabod, it is best an imperfect work, but existing, as a perfect, you may not ever see the light.




In this spirit, we have carried out over the decades, a thorough research work on the books (just about it) and with the testimony of the people (also in small numbers, but valuable). Some "old experts" are gone forever: of all I like to remember "Agostino" Zulian of Luin-Brissogne, always available to each initiative and information on His Mountain, who died in 2012, his ashes drifts in the Walloon of the Laures, him so expensive.
On other occasions has been the passion, grown up from early youth, to animate this Love to search for facts, stories and chronicles lived or happened, even far away in remote times. On other occasions again we were the protagonists. In other spectators. And other still fascinated listeners. But the Spirit of th'Emilius towers above everything and it is sufficient to get close to the mountain and to smell the scent of her long, drawn out and mysterious history. We, from humble archaeologists of the mountain, we have tried to reveal some of his secrets.
In this page, you add the other two previous, and all three together parts of a work dated older now almost four years, which requires a review to get outdated and not "heavy", you girders around a little and a small of everything, certainly everything will discover corresponds to reality, or at least a truth told by the protagonists. Throughout remains, however, the subjectivity of the stories, which is always something very personal, and often not questionable or without contracditory. It is thus a

NEVERENDING STORY,




or nearly so,


in fact, histories, events and news about this fascinating mountain, which has often changed its name in more than two centuries of history. But this is not that a small grain of sand compared to the Geological Age of Mount Emilius, like all the old ladies, hides it in his wrinkles. We, however, we tried to partially remove the veil, without claiming to reveal the '"arcane".
Hoping to make you happy!

East Face


Ilario Antonio Garzotto sul pulpito...
EMILIUS s E WALL in the middle
33 ROUTES  of the <font color=green><b>MONTE EMILIUS </font>(3559m) <FONT COLOR=BLUE>EAST FACE, NEW ROUTE in right</FONT></B>
<b>33 ROUTES of the <font color=green> MONTE EMILIUS (3559m) <font color=blue>EAST FACE</font> , new route</b>
R. Quendoz sulla parete Est...


From the top of this beautiful and perfect triangular mountain, which, together with those of Mount Avic, Mount Delà, Tersiva's Point, Garin Peak, Becca of Nona, The Grivola, Great Nomenon, Bioula Point, Tzaboc's Beak or Luetta's Point, Tighet's also Tignet's Tower, Mount Paramont, Berrio Blanc and in parallel, but more to the South, Rosa of the Banchi, Tower of Lavina, Great and Little Arolla, Sanit'Orso ower, Tower of the Great Saint Peter, Patrì's Tops, Roccia Viva, Great Rousse and Sassière, down below to France, Great Assaly, form an almost endless array of magnificent pyramids that follow each at once drum and out of sight in this area of Graian Alps, dominated by the glacial mass of Great Paradise. From the Summit of Emilius all unfold before your eyes admired alpinist. But looking down, we realize, almost with a shudder of anxiety and fear, to have right under the foot a terrible abyss, formed by the steep sides and walls falling down in the direction of wild walloons, marked by the flow of torrents shining . Towards the Northern Slopes another huge spectacle unfolds by the passage of the Alps from the North Graian Alps to the Pennine, Combins and Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn, and, even further, to the far node, towards the East, the Mount Rosa (= from Roizà = Glacier) Mountain Chain.
Simultaneously come to mind at first then more and more clearly blurred the images of many battles played, of the episodes recorded and stories of which we have read or heard the story over time. In a distant, remote, almost no longer ours and forever and all unfathomable, unexplainable in the past. Inexorably. A time that never comes back in your memory or if you do not fancy that some old image or picture, still turn on again ...

&

North Walls





NOTE SETUP PAGE

This page refers to the third part of the total (see the first floor of the Opera), in this last one, primarily consisted in the second and has been voluntarily interchanged with the next and thus represents a new scan of the various sections of which consists the same.
Technically the same is divided into four sections plus the "Acknowledgements", which, again, similar for each of the three analytical pages.
1)-: In the first, immediately after the ritual "Overview", you treat all the events that concern, listing them chronologically, mainly the Monte Emilius and highlighting a few facts about the surrounding peaks.
2)-: means the subsequent repeats, using the same address, all that's happened in the succession of winters, but at the same widens further to the tops of the district, but still related to the Subgroup of Emilius.
3)-: the third section addressed to anything significant happened in climbing or climbing important solitarily made ​​it retains the prerogatives of the first, but highlights the characters more so.
4 -: the last recounts of all ascents conducted by only using the Via Ferrata, built by mountain guides and open to the public since 2004. "Volens aut Nolens" the same is now part and parcel of the history of Mount Emilius and, among other things, has achieved considerable success, to be honest we have not shared.
All four sections briefly tell stories of "ab initio" and until June of 2009, the year of the first, unitary and integral publication in SP. All four sections briefly tell stories of "ab initio" and until June of 2009, the year of the first, unitary and integral publication in SP. What remains to be considered the last four seasons, for which we provide a warm invitation to the young hopefuls and, above all, good will ...

and

Black Triangle





Non é mai facile ricostruir la storia alpina ed alpinistica, quando interviene l'opera dell'uomo, d'una montagna. Neppur di quelle più famose. Possiam pensare cosa voglia dire per quelle semi o sconosciute del tutto! Diventa la ricerca d'un ago nel pagliaio. Ma con un pò di buona volontà qualcosina di valido si raggiunge, senza pretendere d'avere ottenuto l'Assoluta Perfezione, che non é cosa di questo mondo. Daltronde, come diceva l'Accademico Renato Chabod, é meglio un'opera imperfetta, ma esistente, che una perfetta, tal che forse non vedrà mai la luce. Con codesto spirito abbiamo svolto, nei decenni, una minuziosa opera di ricerca sui libri (pochi, a tal riguardo) e con la testimonianza delle persone (altresì in numero ridotto, ma preziose). Alcuni "vecchi esperti" se ne sono andati per sempre: fra tutti mi piace ricordare "Agostino" Zulian di Luin-Brissogne, da sempre disponibile verso ogni iniziativa ed informazione sulla Sua Montagna; scomparso nel 2012, le sue ceneri aleggiano nel Vallone delle Laures, a lui sì caro.
In altre occasioni é stata la passione, coltivata insin dalla prima giovinezza, ad animare questo Amore per la ricerca di fatti, storie e cronache vissute od avvenute, anche disperse lontano nel tempo remoto. In altr'occasioni siamo stati protagonisti. In altre spettatori. Ed in altre ancora affascinati auditori. Ma lo Spirito dell'Emilius troneggia su tutto ed é sufficiente avvicinarsi a questa montagna per coglier l'odore e la fragranza della sua lunga, interminabile e misteriosa storia. Noi, qual umile archeologo del monte, abbiamo tentato a svelarene qualche suo intimo segreto.
In questa pagina, aggiuntiva all'altre due precedenti, e tutte e tre le parti facenti insieme d'un'opera vetusta d'ormai quasi quattro anni, tal da richiedere richiede una revisione onde non diventare obsoleta e "pesante", trovasi un poco di tutto e di tutto un pò, certamente il tutto corrisponde alla realtà, o almeno facente parte d'una verità raccontata dai protagonisti. Ovunque rimane, però, la soggettività delle storie, che è sempre qualcosa di molto personale, e spesso non discutibile o senza contradditorio. E 'quindi una
STORIA INFINITA,

o quasi,




su realtà, storie, eventi e notizie attorno a questa affascinante montagna, cangiante spesso di nome in più di due secoli di istoria. Ma questo non è che un granellino di sabbia rispetto all'Età Geologica del Monte Emilius, che, come tutte le vecchie signore, nasconde nelle sue rughe. Noi, invece, abbiamo cercato di rimuovere parzialmente il velo, senza la pretesa di rivelarne l '"arcano".
Sperando di farvene contenti!
Dall'alto di questa splendida e perfettamente triangolare montagna, che, insieme a quelle del Monte Avic, Mont Delà, Tersiva, Punta Garin, Becca di Nona, Grivola, Gran Nomenon, Punta Bioula, Becca di Tzaboc o della Luetta, Torre del Tighet, Mont Paramont, Berrio Blanc ed in parallelo, ma più in Mezzogiorno, Rosa dei Banchi, Torre di Lavina, Grande e Piccola Arolla, Torre di Sant'Orso, Torre del Gran San Pietro, Punte Patrì, Roccia Viva, Grande Rousse e Grande Sassière e, laggiù in fondo verso la Francia, Grande Assaly, forma una serie quasi infinita di suggestive piramidi susseguentisi a tambur battente ed a perdita d'occhio in questo settore delle Alpi Graie, dominato dalla massa glaciale del Gran Paradiso. Dalla Vetta dell'Emilius tutto scorre davanti agli occhi ammirati dell'alpinista. Ma abbassando lo sguardo ci si accorge, quasi con un fremito d'ansia e di paura, di avere proprio sotto ai piedi un terribile abisso, formato da ripide e scoscese pareti cascanti dabbasso in direzione di selvaggi valloni, segnati dallo scorrer di lucenti torrenti. Verso Settentrione un altro spettacolo immenso si dispiega dallo snodarsi della catena alpina dalle Alpi Graie di Settentrione alle Pennine, dal Monte Bianco ai Combins ed al Cervino, ed, ancora più in là, all'estremo nodo, verso Oriente, della Catena del Monte Rosa.
Simultaneamente ritornan alla mente, dapprima sfocate poi sempre più nitidamente, le immagini di tante battaglie disputate, d'episodi osservati e di storie delle quali abbiamo ascoltato il racconto oppur abbiamo letto nel tempo. In un tempo lontano, remoto, quasi non più nostro e per sempre e del tutto insondabile ed inspiegabilmente passato. Inesorabilmente. Un tempo che non ritorna più se non nella memoria o nella fantasia, che qualche vecchia immagine o istantanea ancor riaccende ...

Emilius s North Wall Direct Route & Arpisson Walloon
Emilius s North Face Direct Route & Arpisson
MONTE EMILIUS snowy North Face of 680m & Arpisson s Walloon
Emilius s East Face & Blantsette Glacier from Summit
Emilius s East Wall & Blantsette Glacier


NOTA di IMPOSTAZIONE della PAGINA


Questa pagina fa riferimento alla terza parte del lavoro complessivo (vedi Piano dell'Opera nella prima); in questa ultima, primariamente, consisteva nella seconda ed é stata volontariamente interscambiata con la successiva e quindi rappresenta una nuova scansione delle varie sezioni delle quali si compone il medesimo.
Tecnicamente la stessa si divide in quattro sezioni più i "Ringraziamenti", che si ripropongono similari per ognuna delle tre pagine analitiche.
1)-: nella prima, subito dopo la rituale "Overview", si trattano tutti gli eventi che concernono, elencandoli cronologicamente, principalmente il Monte Emilius ed evidenziando pochi fatti che riguardano le cime limitrofe.
2)-: la successiva ripropone, tramite lo stesso indirizzo, tutto ciò che é successo nel susseguirsi degli Inverni; a stessa però si allarga maggiormente alle cime del circondario, ma pur sempre attinenti al Sottogruppo dell'Emilius.
3)-: la terza sezione rivolta a tutto ciò di notevole avvenuto in ascensioni od arrampicate importanti effettuate solitariamente essa mantiene le prerogative della prima, ma evidenzia in modo maggiore i personaggi.
4)-: l'ultima racconta di tutte le ascensioni effettuate da soli tramite la Via Ferrata, costruita dalle guide alpine ed aperta al pubblico dal 2004. "Volens aut Nolens" la stessa ormai fa parte integrante della Storia del Monte Emilius e, tra l'altro, ha ottenuto un notevole successo, per la verità da noi non condiviso.
Tutte e quattro le sezioni raccontano sinteticamente di storie "ab initio" e fino al Giugno del 2009, anno della prima, unitaria nonché integrale pubblicazione in SP. Rimangono quindi da prendere in considerazione le ultime quattro stagioni, per le quali effettuiamo un caldo invito ai giovani di belle speranze e di, soprattutto, buona volontà ...




Part. B)- HISTORY EMILIUS'S ASCENTS, SCRAMBLES, CLIMBS, NATURAL EVENTS EXTRAORDINARY FACTS

B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, L, M, N and O) - Synthesis in chronological order of ascents, climbs, and human, natural, extraordinary facts, events and phenomenons in Mount Emilius Group (well - known, observations and private informations).

LEGENDA:
in RED= ascents, climbs and human events;
in BLUE= winter ascents, climbs and tryes:
in GREEN= natural phenomenons;
in PURPLE= extraordinary facts;
in BROWN= Books, Maps, detailed Bibliography, priv. inform., reports, remarks, connections, naps, colour. pictures and B&W photos.
In BLACK=terminal abbreviations after; = in descent routes;
in BLACK (n.d.r. = remark and note by author or compiler)

1000: DESTRUCTION HAMLET of POULEINS
(Pollein) in alluvial cone - fan at present of Saint Bénin, Chenaux, Chenières Villages. The bell tower of the church recovered in Dora Baltea Stream (flying one Kilometre!).

1823: First? On the Summit of Emilius (through S-SE Arête); (Giovan Battista Defey, Lorenzo Cerise and unknown companion or with other companions?): route A/24; A/24.

1832: First? on the Summit of Nona's Becca (3142m), twin lower sister of Mount Emilius; (Engineer Casalegno of S.M.S. (Sardinian-Staff), solo or in company?. From and to?: r. B. di N.

From AOSTA's TOWN SAME ROUTE of ENGINEER CASALEGNO, HIS's MAJESTY the KING Land Registry Office CARTOGRAPHER




1839: Ascent by Emilia Argentier, 14 years old and company (Rev. Georges Carrel, Naturalist): r. A/24; A/24.

1856 (? th?): First on the Summit of Garin Peak (3461m); (Abbots Balthazar Chamonin and Pierre Chanoux; from Aosta Town - route?): r. 19 or 28 of G. Peak.

1875 (Jul 17/18th): First ascent? Becca di Salé (3137m) or Salì also called Mont des Laures, (very ancient toponym), and First Ascent of Petite Roise or Roëse, (= derivation from Roizà = Glacier), (3273/9m~), First? Ascent, hardly probable, Central Roise or Roëse, South Summit (at present Gianni Junod Points 3300m), and Grande Roise or Roëse or Tîta Plana, (derivation from Piana = Flat), also Becca of Leppy, (very ancient placename) (3256/7/m c.) (Comments by Osvaldo Cardellina in book "Guida del Monte Emilius", 1978 various pages, and in Summit Post Dec. 02th, 2009. See above "Ridges and Spurs 1) -"See "READING ROOM": Becca di Salé, Points Gianni Junod, Grande Roise, Point Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Punta di Leppe); (Ange Décaroli, Albis Lucat and very famous Mountain Guide of Valtournenche Jean Antoine Carrel called "Il Bersagliere", winner Italian Slope of Cervino (Matterhorn); from Saint Marcel - Chalet (Alp) de Salé - Chalets de Bon Plan - High Chalet, name? Bonplan Damon? East Slope of Brissogne or the Grande Roise Pass (at present Salé Pass) - S Arête of Becca di Salé in ascent and in descent - Salé Pass and crossing from N-NW Arête of Petite Roise, S-SW Ridge of Punte Junod South Summit?, unlikely, and NE Ridge of Grande Roise in ascent - S Arête in descent?, very likely, to Les Laures Long, Dessous Lakes and Alp. (Jul. 18 th): ascent of Mount Emilius, route?, and S-SE Arête in descent to Three Capuchins Pass, Gelato Lake, Arbolle Valley, Garin Pass, Arpisson Valley and Alp, Gimillan - Cogne. (of route remark in book "Guida della Valle d'Aosta", by C. Bich and A. Gorret; Edit. Casanova, Turin, 1876): r. B. di Sal.; Pt. Roi.; Gr. Roi; Cen. Roi. or S Sum. of P. Jun.; Gr. Roi.

1875 (Sep 09th): W-SW Face and S Slope (Corona Passage); (Giuseppe Corona, Venanzio Defey and Gregorio Comé): r. 26; A/24.

1877 (? th?): First? on the Summit of Valletta's Point (3089/90m~; Vallettaz ??? in any recent maps. Forcing of Gallicism in Aosta Valley! See 1897 Becca di Seneva); (P. L. Guignard, France; from? - SW Slope and SW Arête to?): r. P. della V.

1878 (Sep 18th): NW? try up to the top quota 3450m~; (Martino Baretti, Luigi Bruno, Augusto and Vittorio Sibille of Susa Valley); r. D/23? or 01, more probably, or E routes various.

1889 (Dec 20th): First in winter? The beginning of winter: Dec 21th) (or Amilcare Crétier "Band" in 1928, Mar 19th?) of Becca di Nona from Carrel Pass and E-SE Arête; (Alessandro Emilio Martelli, Silvio Miglietti, C.A.I. of Turin and Jean Baptiste Aymonod, mountain guide of Valtournenche) However, there are one day to go winter!.

1891 (Aug 03th): First ascent absolute? of Punte Rosse dell'Emilius, West Summit as Punta des Laures? (3401m; 3340m ? in remark and toponym Punta des Laures? To mistake an summit for another? with the Punta des Laures (3367m)?; (Rev. W.B.A. Coolidge, F. Gardiner and Swiss mountain guides Christian Almer and Rudolf Almer; from Valaisan Pass and S-SW Arête? See Magazine "Oest Alpen Zetung" 1891, page 278): r. P. R. Em. or P. des Laur.?

1893 (Aug 02th): First ascent? and first crossing SE/NW of Leppe's Point (three little Summits, E 3306m; C 3305m~; W 3293/4m~); (Giovanni Bobba and Eliseo Jeantet; from Cogne - Grauson Vieux Alp - Corona Lake - W-SW Slope of Mont Vallonet and Pass-SE Slope and E-SE Arête - NW Slope in descent to?): r. P. di Lep.

1897 (Aug 13th): First on the Summit Arpisson Tower (3227/31m~); (George Yeld and mountain guide of Valtournenche François Pession; from Gimillan - Arpisson Alp - W Slope (diagonal route) and NE Arête in ascent; NE Slope in descent to Grauson Vieux Alp and Gimillan Village): r. Arp. Tow.

1897 (Aug 12th): First on the Summit of Seneva's Becca (30081/86m~; Senevaz ??? in any recent maps Forcing of Gallicism in Aosta Valley! See 1877? Punta della Valletta; it's soon said: Monte Biancoz, Monte Rosaz, La Grivolaz and because I don't' want to Monte Cervinoz. Just!) also called Becca du "Cordagnë" (= of "Shoemaker", old placename in Grand Brissogne Village); (Giovan Battista Devalle, Ercole Daniele and mountain guides of Valtournenche Alessandro Pession and Luigi Bich; from Arpisson Alp - W Wall of Pinnacles of Seneva - crossing South Pinnacle and NW Arête in ascent; SW Arête in descent - Peckoz Pass - Arpisson W Glacier - Emilius's Sources to Arpisson's Alps Damon (Higher) and Desott (Lower)): r. B. di Sen.

1897: North Wall Little Emilius's and West Arête (various variants); (Giovan Battista Devalle, Ercole Daniele and Alessandro Pession and Luigi Bich, mountain guide of Valtournenche; from Arpisson's Alp - Arpisson W Glacier; descent S-SE Arête - Arbolle's Valley to Aosta): r. 01/D/23; A/24.

1800/1900 (the end and beginning centuries): Observations carly stage phenomenons phases little crack - fissure (crevice "La Raye du Morion", at present perimeter ruins of ancient Morion Alp in summit Morion Rock, great and vertical promontory with two frozen waterfalls, in winter) a hole in the ground and rocks at base of North Wall Becca di Nona; 7/9 meters~ in length, 5/10 centimetres~ in wide; (Years '80: report - tale from Venerand Lucianaz to son Franco and story another elderly of Charvensod Commune. Priv. inf. Franco Lucianaz in Ménabreaz Hut, Laures's Dessous Lake. In occasion of try for hailstorm-snowstorm and gale falled positionings cross in the two Gianni Junod Points or Central Roise (in Range Grande Roise also Roèse or Tîta Plana, Subgroup Mount Emilius); Oct. 05/06, 1996. See Jul 24th, 1966, Oct 12/18th, 2000 and Nov 01th, 2000.

1902 (Sep 16th): E Arête, in descent and in ascent from and to Mount Emilius and W Arête in descent to "Colletto" 3315m~; S-SW Slope in ascent (terminal part, return to Summit); (Abbot Maria Joseph Henry and Grégoire Comé, mountain guide of Charvensod): r. I/32; D/23.

1902 (Sep 16th): S-SW Slope, in descent (Great Couloir to Right or East, New Route); (Abbots of Saint Pierre Maria Joseph Henry, of Saint Nicolas ? Bionaz and Grégoire Comé, mountain guide of Charvensod; from the Summit - Gelato Lake - crossing E/W Slopes Róss Pass's to Carrel Pass): r. A/24; A/24quater.

1902 (Sep 17th): W Arête in ascent and in descent from Comboé's Alp - Carrel Pass to Collar 3315m~ and descent N Wall Mont's Róss de Comboé; (Abbot Maria Joseph Henry and Grégoire Comé, mountain guide of Charvensod; from Comboé's Alp - Carrel Pass to Carrel Pass and Comboé Alp); r. D/23bis; E/31.

1902: 1° replay (entirely) NW Arête Mont's Róss of Comboé - Little Emilius W Arête; (Emilio Questa and Felice Mondini (entire in ascent), in day from Aosta - Charvensod Village - Comboé Alp - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass - W Crest - Three Capuchins's Pass - Arbolle Valley and Alp - Comboé to Aosta!): r. D/23; 23bis; A/24.

1903 (Sep 11th): N Wall, try up to the top quota 3000m~ ?, failed for falling uninterrupted rocks and bad weather; (Abbot Joseph Maria Henry and Reverend D. Bovet; from?): r. E?.

1905/6 (in winter):Idealization try ascent NE Ridge and N Edge; (Abbot of Saint Pierre Joseph Maria Henry and Reverend of Roisan Jean Bonin): r. G/16.

1906 (Jul th?): E Arête 1° replay and 1° solo, in ascent; (Engineer Nino Tofani; from Les Laures Hunting House): r. I/32; A/24.

1906: NE Ridge and N Edge (of "Three Curates") First of ridge; (Abbots Louis Bonin, Pantaléon Bovet, Maria Joseph Henry and Engineer Nino Tofani; from Grand Brissogne Village - Les Laures Alp - Peckoz Pass - Tête and Blantsette Pass): r. G./16; A/24.
RM C.A.I. 1907, page 49/52 ... "PRIMA ASCENSIONE DEL MONTE EMILIUS (m. 3559) " PER LA CRESTA NORD-NORD-EST...Dell'Emilius, la bella montagna che domina Aosta, rimanevano di assolutamente inesplorate la parete Est e la cresta Nord-Nord-Est... Debbo presentare i miei compagni? Non lo credo necessario: basterà ricordare che Henry é il valente cultore della flora alpina e il tenace alpinista esploratore dell'Emilius; che Bovet, parroco di Doues, è il cacciatore di camosci dai muscoli d'acciaio, classico "grimpeur" ben noto a chi é salito a Bionaz in Valpellina qualche anno fa, quando egli vi era parroco ospitale, e piacevolissimo compagno ai Wherry, ai Topham ai Canzio, Vigna e Mondini nel "Boll. CAI", vol. XXX°), e che Bonin di Roisan é quel colosso che nella primissima sua ascensione ha trovato semplicemente modo di di seguire il prof. Grasselli e il Rev. Ratti di Milano al Monte Bianco ... E' naturale dopo ciò, che io non sentissi, sebben novellino, il bisogno di "altre" guide ..." Edit. C.A.I.-Mount Magazine 1907.

1909 (Jul 17/18th): First ascent of Grauson Tower or Mount Grauson also Groson; (George Yeld and mountain guide of Valtournenche Beniamino Pession; from Cogne - Grauson Vieux's Alp; (Jul 18th): from Alp Lussert's Torrent - small saddle at base NE Ridge quota 2808m - W Slope of NE Ridge and E sector of N Wall in ascent; S-SW Couloir of S Slope to Grauson Vieux Alp, Pila Alp, Gimillan Village, Montroz Village and Cogne): r. Gr. Tow.

1910 (Aug 18th): First Ascent Absolute of Punta Ilario Antonio Garzotto (3273/4m~); (Giovan Battista Bozzino and Armando Bertucci, C.A.I. Section Ligure; from Cogne - Grauson Valley - Vallonet Pass - crossing diagonal in E Slope of Punta di Leppe to Leppe Pass - South Slope and S-SW Arête in ascent, North Ridge in descent to small saddle 3190m, W little couloir of Grande Roise and crossing N Arête of Punta di Leppe (3305/6m~; First Ascent); descent S Slope (new route) - Tsesère's Alp, Grauson Vieux Alp, Gimillan Village - Montroz Village to Cogne): r. P.I.A. Gar; P. di Lep.

1911: S Slope (Little Emilius) and W Arête; (Giovanni Battista Bozzino and Carlotta "Tina" Bozzino,in descent from Summit - W Arête - small saddle 3315/20m~ - Little Emilius to Gelato Lake and Arbolle's Valley): r. D/23; 28bis.

1914 (? th?): First Ascent, certainly, of South Summit Central Roise's at present Punte Gianni Junod; from? Saint Marcel or Les Laures Valley?; Hans d'Entreves (in RM-Magazine of C.A.I. 1915, page 121. Excursions list in summer): r. S Sum. of P.G. Jun.

1926: First? replay NE Ridge and N Edge ("Three Curates" or "Three Abbots"); (Alessandro Martinotti and unknown companion of C.A.I. Biella; from Les Laures Valley?): r. G./16; A/24.

1926: N Wall (Pillar of Left) and N Edge; (Lino Binel, Renato Chabod and Amilcare Crétier; from Peckoz Barons small Hunting House - Arpisson W Glacier): r. 07; A/24.

EMILIUS's NORTH FACE, of TWENTIES MASTERPIECE by AMILCARE, LINO and RENATO

33 ROUTES OF MONTE EMILIUS (3559m)
 
33 ROUTES OF MONTE EMILIUS (3559m)
 
l Emilius (3559 m.) parete...
 
33 ROUTES OF MONTE EMILIUS (3559m)
 
Monte Emilius<i> 3559m</i> North wall
 


1927: N Wall and W Arête (Pillar of Left, First entirely of Wall); (Lino Binel and Amilcare Crétier; from Barons Peckoz small Hunting House - Arpisson W Glacier): E/08; A/24.

1928 (Mar 18th): try First Winter Mount Emilius, failed for bad weather and not much wish to start!, (Amilcare Crétier, F. David, Albert Deffeyes, G. Lamastra, Basile Ollietti, Guido Perolino and L. Pession; from bivouac, idles, to bivouac!): r. A/24.

1928 (Mar 19th): First? Winter of Becca di Nona; (Amilcare Crétier, F. David, Albert Deffeyes, G. Lamastra, Basile Ollietti, Guido Perolino and L. Pession; from Comboé Alp - Carrel Pass skiing ( "Invernale con schy. ...Neve assai buona: tempo discreto ..." "In winter by ski. Very good snow: fairly good weather" in Mountain's Diary 1921-1933, by Amilcare Crétier, page 36, Edit. in Bologna Jul 1993. - E-SE Arête in ascent and in descent - Pila - Plan Pra to Pont Suaz/Aosta Town): r. B. di N.

1929: (Aug 18th): Second? replay NE Ridge and N Edge (of "Three Curates"); († Alexandre "Dino" Charrey, † Jean Charrey and † Cino Norat; from Les Laures Alp - Blansette Glacier and Pass): r. G/16; A/24.

1929: (Aug 25th): E Wall try up to the top quota 3460/3480m~; († Alexandre "Dino" Charrey, † Jean Charrey and † Cino Norat; from Les Laures Alp - Blantsette Glacier - E Wall, Central Route): r. H/18.

1930 (Aug 24th): Inauguration, and Requiem Mass, of small Chapel in Les Laures Dessous Lake, in Memento of † Alexandre "Dino" Charrey, † Jean Charrey and † Cino Norat.

1932: (Jan 06/07/08th): try First Winter (from Pila - Arbolle Alp - Gelato Lake); (Lino Binel and Amilcare Crétier: ... "Il 6 Gennaio vado con Lino a Comboé in schy. Pernottamento in casa guardiacaccia: Tutta notte vicino al fuoco ... On 6 Jan with Lino in Comboé. Overnight stay in gamekeeper's house. The Whole of night near by fire." ... from Mountain Diary by Amilcare Crétier "Ascensioni in Valle d'Aosta 1921-1933", pages 63/64. Edit. in Bologna Jul 1993.): r. A/24.

1933 (Summer): Ascent by Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian, 6 years old!, with dad Alcide, 1876/1948, Laures Pastures shepherd and "old mountain guide" Emilius's); from Dzacquin Dessus Lake to S-SE Arête in ascent and in descent to Dzacquin Lake): r. A/24; A/24.

1934 (Summer): Ascent by Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian, 7 years old!; (always with dad Alcide); from Les Laures Alp - S-SE Arête in ascent and in descent: r. A/24; A/24.

1933/2009 (Summers): Ascents by "Agostino" Zulian every years! in the Summit of Mount Emilius: r. various.

1934: First Winter S-SE Arête: (FIRST WINTER ABSOLUTE); (Amedeo Berthod, Lino Binel and Leonardo Cossard); from Pila - Arbolle - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête to Pila, round trip): r. A/24; A/24.

1935: E Face (Central Route), First Ascent Absolute; (Renato Chabod and Giusto Gervasutti; from Les Laures Alp - Blantsette Glacier): r. H/1; A/24.

1935: Ascent by "Agostino" Zulian, 8 years old!; (with Alcide); from Les Laures Alp - S-SE Arête in ascent and in descent: r. A/24; A/24.

1936: First Crossing from Peak Garin - Mount Valaisan - Punte Rossa (three) - Arbolle Pass to Mount Emilius S-SE Arête; (Anselme Falcoz, lone; in day from Pila Village or Fernier Alp?): r. A/24; A/24.

1936 (Dec 25/26th): First Winter Garin Peak; (Anselme Falcoz and Pierluigi "Piero" Falcoz); (25th): from Aosta - Charvensod - Péroulaz - Pila - Chamolé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé Alp; (26th): from alp - Comboé/Arbolle Pass - Arbolle Alp and Lakes - Garin Pass and Lake - SW Arête in ascent, N Wall (Indirect Route) in descent - Valaisan's Pass - Arbolle Alp - Arbolle/Comboé Pass and Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Chamolé Alp - Pila to Aosta): r. 19;37 G. Peak.

1939 (Feb 05/06/07th): First Winter Grauson Tower or Mount Grauson; (Anselme Falcoz, lone; (05th): from Aosta Town (540m~) - Charvensod - Péroulaz - Pila - Chamolé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé Alp; (06th): Comboé/Arbolle Pass-Arbolle Alp and Lakes - traverse W/E Slopes Valaisan Pass - at base of Grauson Tower; skiing - sector W of N Wall and W Ridge (new route) to Summit; half NE Ridge and diagonal in N Wall in descent - E Slope Valaisan Pass (bivouac); (07th): from Valaisan Pass W Slope in descent - Arbolle Lakes and Alp - Arbolle/Comboé Pass - Comboè Alp (bivouac) - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Chamolé Alp - Pila to Aosta, skiing. Great undertaking-venture!) r. Gr. Tow.

1939 (Mar 11/12th): First Winter Emilius's Three Red Points; (Anselme Falcoz, solo; (11th): from Aosta - Charvensod - Péroulaz - Pila-Chamolé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé Alp - Comboé/Arbolle Pass - Arbolle Alp (bivouac); (12th): from Arbolle Alp and Lakes - W Slope Valaisan Pass - half S-SW Arête skiing - W Summit (3401m) and crossing Central Summit (3395m~) and East Summit (3399m), round trip; S-SW Arête in descent and, by ski, Lussert/Grauson Valley to Gimillan, Cogne Hôtel Bellevue ... "dal buon Cunéaz"!... Great double shot, Engineer!!!): r. P.R. Em.

1939: (Mar 12th): Thrilling-exciting adventure in descent, by ski, from Emilius's Red Points in Lussert/Grauson Valley and Torrent to Cogne: " … e ritorno agli sci. Scivolata fantastica, interminabile, su Cogne; senonchè un cañon del Colorado; io mi caccio in esso per mia sventura. Ghiaccio, neve acqua, non posso più uscirne; quante precauzioni! Poi una cascata insormontabile mi costringe a sinistra; sono fuori, ma quanta lontana è ancora Cogne! Segue il bosco intricato, la neve è pesantissima … " ... Try-attempt to do a translation into Englishs>, by Osvaldo Cardellina (on Jun 2009 the undersigned he can speak in English: "yes!": ... " …return to ski. Fantastical sliding, endless, near Cogne; but unfortunately a canyon of Colorado; to get oneself into a mess unluckily for my. Ice, snow water, to get out?; how much cautions! Then a waterfall insurmountable to forced the route turns to the left; it's nothing to do with me, no! from afar Cogne! To follow the tangled wood, heavy tiring snow … " ... ; (Doctor Anselme Falcoz in Riv. Mens. C.A.I. - Magazine 1939, page 392. See above Mar 11/12th, 1939 and to see Feb 11/12th, 2004 "Thrilling forced descent by snowshoes … ", Analogy recurring in adventure by snowshoes in Lussert Torrent/Grauson Valley a 65 years later and one month exactly!): r. P.R. Em.

YEARS '40 (In the Forties): Accompanying of Queen of Italy Maria Josè and suite to Summit of Mount Emilius; (Simone Faccarello "Arno", mountain carrier of Aosta; from Pila - Arbolle Alp and Valley - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête in ascent and in descent to Pila): r. A/24; A/24.

1940: N Wall (Central Couloir), new route and W Arête; (Anselme Falcoz and Massimo Mila; from Peckoz Hut - Arpisson W Glacier): r. 05; A/24.

1940/41 in winter: First Winter W Arête (from Carrel Pass or Róss Pass - Comboé Valley? or Arbolle Valley - Róss Pass or S Slope of Little Emilius?) and Second in Winter of mountain and First Winter solo; (Nerino Gobbo, lone from Pila?): r. D/23 bis/D/; 23 or 30?; A/24?.

1941: Emilius Great Traverse E/W: NE Ridge and N Edge 4°? in ascent and crossing W Arête Monte Emilius - Little Emilius - Mont Róss of Comboé, in descent; E-SE Arête of Becca di Nona in ascent and N-NE Ridge, in descent; (Giulio Adolfo Ourlaz "Dulo" and wife Aurora Wuillerminaz; from Pila - Comboé - Carrel Pass - Arpisson W and E Glaciers - Mont Blantsette and Pass; to Pila): r. G/16/D/23/23 bis.

1942: N Wall, new route ("Mammellone Route" - "Great-Breast" and N Edge); (Giulio Adolfo Ourlaz "Dulo" and Emanuele Tosana; from Peckoz Hut - Arpisson W and E Glaciers and N Edge): r. 11; A/24.

1942: N Wall, new route with route 1940 variants (Central Couloir and Pillar of Left) and W Arête; (Giulio Adolfo Ourlaz "Dulo" and Emanuele Tosana; from Peckoz Hut - Arpisson W Glacier): r. 05; A/24.

1946: First replay E Wall (Direct Variant, new route); (Pietro "Piero" Rosset: ... ”Nella vecchia Casa di Caccia del Barone Beck Peckoz, ridotta nel primo dopoguerra a baracca, abbiamo dormito io "di lusso" nel cassetto di un armadio con spondina, Franco, ché la statura non glielo permetteva, sul pavimento. Sopra al "Pulpito", di una quarantina di metri e sulla destra (via più diretta e già dichiarata possibile da Giusto Gervasutti nella salita del Giugno '35; n.d.r.) ho ritrovato su di una piccola cengia un passamontagna bianco della tragica cordata dell'Agosto '29, con ancora una ciocca di capelli. Segno che la cordata dei fratelli Charrey e di Cino Norat non era molto lontana dalla vetta. A mio avviso gli scarponi ferrati (Tricouni n.d.r.) sono stati fatali ai tre ragazzi di Aosta, anche per il tipo di roccia che si incontra nella parte finale della parete, più adatta alla suola in gomma … " ... . Try to do a translation into English, by Osvaldo and his dictionary: ... "In Old Hunting House Baron Beck Peckoz, to be in a bad state after the II° World War, sleep in chest of drawers wardrobe's with little the edge, "Piero"; Franco in floor plank bed, limited because of tall height. In East Face, about forty meters and on the right above of the "Pulpito" ("Pulpit"; direct route, already declared possible, by Giusto Gervasutti, in first ascent, on June 1935; n.d.r. finding in little terrace of the white balaclava tragic a group of rope climbers, on Aug 1929. Till existing one lock, proof evidence of rope climbers Brothers Charrey and Norat near exit out from East Face to Emilius Summit. In my opinion, the climbing boots (Tricouni hobnailed shoes, n.d.r.) deadly for three boys Aosta's; mostly for typology of the rock in terminal part of face, suitable for rubber soles…" ... and Franco Garda); from Les Laures Valley (Ménabreaz Hut) Blantsette Glacier): r. 19; A/24.




1947: Try up to the top~ Three Capuchins Pass of Traverse Peak Garin-Mount Emilius; (Anselme Falcoz, solo; in day from Fernier, Pila): r. A/24; A/24.

1948 (Jun 29th): The beginning of fires tradition (Saints Peter's and Paul's) Mount's Emilius Summit from Brissogne Company (mountaineers and hunters); since 1948 continuously until 2009 but two years: on 1994?: 1)- half E Arête, return a wall of fog motive and crossing in Blantsette Glacier to Peckoz Pass and Becca di Seneva (Fires!In the Summit) and 2)- once more half arête in ascent reason bad weather. r. half I/32; half I/32; B. di Sen.

1949: First Winter NE Ridge and N Edge ("Three Curates") 5°? of NE Ridge and N Edge and 3° Winter of mountain; (Franco Garda and Pietro "Piero" Rosset; from Pila - Comboé (bivouac) - Carrel Pass - Arpisson W and E Glaciers - Mont Blantsette and Pass); S-SE Crest to Arbolle Valley, in descent: r. G./16; A/24.

1955 (Aug 15th): Inauguration and opening of Refuge/Hut/House in the Hunting Ernesto Ménabreaz of Brissogne (private), by "Les Amis des Laures" ("Laures's Friends").

1955 (Aug 15th): 6°? of NE Ridge and N Edge; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian and Mirando Perruquet to Pila (and five companions to Black Triangle Summit in ascent and descent: Fedele Deval, Valentino Zulian, Adolfo Mathiou, Bruno Nicoletta and Roberto Brughera): r. (1° group): G/16;(second group): A/24. G/16 (partial); G/16.

1955 (Aug 16 th):First solo and 7°? of NE ridge and N Edge from Hut and descent S-SE Arête to Ménabreaz Hut; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo): r. G/16; A/24.

1956 (Jul th?): Second solo and 8°? N Edge; and descent S-SE Arête to Ménabreaz Hut; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo) r. G/16; A/24.

1957 (Aug th?): 9°? NE Ridge and N Edge; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian and son Walter, 9 years!, in day from Prarayer to Pila!): r. G/16; A/24.

1957 FROZEN LAKE APPARITION !!!




1957: (Aug) Apparition from Summit and for the first time (post Flood-Inundation '57) of Gelato Lake from Old Glacier of Mount Emilius! (Direct observations by Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian in comparison with the old observations and personal notes reported from his son Alcide, old Laures cows shepherd).

YEARS '30/'40/'50 (In the Thirties/ Forties/Fifties):, Treis of Black Triangle; (Emilio Comici in the Thirties; Augusto Leone S.M.A of AOSTA, 1937; Giulio Adolfo Ourlaz "Dulo" mountain guide of Aosta, in the Forties and Fifties; Dino Fracasso mountain guide of Aosta, in the Fifties; Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian of Luin-Grand Brissogne, 1956): r. F/14.

1958 (Jun? th?): Third solo and 10°? NE Ridge, partial route in lower part, and E Wall, F solo partial, new route; ("Angelino" Bozzetti of Aosta, mountain guide of Valpelline, solo, in day from Pila): r. G/16/17; A/24.

1958 (Jul th?): 4° solo and 11°? NE Ridge and N Edge; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian of Luin, solo): r. G/16; I/32.

1959 (Aug th?): 5° solo and 12°? NE Ridge and N Edge from Ménabreaz Hut; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo): r. G/16; A/24.

1960 (Jul th?): 6° solo and 13°? NE Ridge and N Edge from Hut; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo); r. G/16.

1960: Try up to the top quota 3150m~ on Black Triangle (failed by bad weather and storm) and NE Arête in descent; (Angelo "Angelino" Bozzetti, of Aosta and mountain guide of Valpelline and Pietro "Piero" Rosset, of Aosta and mountain guide of Valpelline ... "Il cattivo tempo ci ha sorpresi dopo aver superato il passaggio "chiave", oltre il chiodo con moschettone punto di arrivo massimo per tutti i precedenti tentativi, sotto il primo nevaio con una traversata difficile su rocce poco buone, se non marce e con scarsi appigli. Per una piccola rampa in diagonale a sinistra abbiamo riparato sullo Spigolo NE e per questo siamo ridiscesi ... Bad weather after outcome of difficult "key" passing, stop for preceding try-attempts, under first little snowfield (eighty metres~, piton with carabiner or spring-clip). Difficult crossing to right in bads rocks and exit to left in NE Edge and descent" ...; from Pila - Comboè Alp (bivouac) - Carrel Pass - Peckoz Hut - Arpisson W and E Glaciers): r. F/14/G/16; A/24.
(Priv. inf. by Angelo Bozzetti, Feb 1967. Priv. inf. by Pietro "Piero" Rosset 1972/73, 1977/8, Dec 24th, 2009 and Jan 16th, 2010. "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 161/3. Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978. Rivista della Montagna-Magazine, by Piero Falchetti, 1972 n°9, page 44; B&W photograph with track extant. Edit. RdM in Turin, 1972. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli,pages 121/24; sketch-draft b&W in existence with tracks in page 122:Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan,Mar. 2005).

1960: N Wall of Black Triangle (First Ascent Absolute) and N Edge and N Edge 14°? (partial superior part of Crest); (Angelo Bozzetti: ... "Una salita difficile, ma ancor più pericolosa per la qualità della roccia. Non la rifarei; é una delle poche vie sulle quali non vorrei tornare." ... (Colloquio di fine Febbraio 1967 con Osvaldo Cardellina, anni 17 e mezzo, al ritorno dall'allenamento nella Palestra di Roccia di Chenaux (Pollein), nonchè confidenze sul suo progetto di Prima Invernale alla Ovest della Noire, ove da lì a pochi giorni avrebbe trovato la morte. Angelo non era abituato a parlar molto ed ancor oggi mi chiedo il perchè di questa confidenzialità con un giovanotto come me. Mi aveva promesso di portarmi ad arrampicare in Valpelline. Era il nostro idolo giovanile. Per tutto ... " Difficult and hard route, but very dangerous for of rock quality. No replay for my" ... (Meeting-talk with Osvaldo Cardellina, 17 years and half, in Chenaux's of rock gym, on the end of Feb 1967, in return from training. Mar 03th death of "Angelino", by fall in descent from normal route Aiguille's Noire of Péuterey, after great exploit in First Winter of West Face, Ratti/Vitale Route. Death of youth idol. In whole Idol...). "Angelino" Bozzetti and Pietro “Piero” Rosset ... "Siamo stati fortunati. Sopra il primo piccolo nevaio, mentre ero davanti, un appiglio mi si é staccato e sono rimasto in caduta attaccato a due mani istintivamente ad un altro. Angelo non se ne é nemmeno accorto; era su di un terrazzino 30 metri sotto con la corda in mano. Nessun chiodo ... Lucky mans! My falling for handhold's inking. Miraculous stoppage. Angelo inattentive, thirty metres below, rope in hands and no pitons...", mountains guides of Valpelline; from Pila - Comboè Alp (bivouac) - Carrel Pass - Arpisson W and E Glaciers to base ): r. F/14/G/16; A/24.

1961 (Aug th?): 7° solo and 15°? NE Ridge and N Edge from Ménabreaz Refuge; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo): r. G/16; A/24.

1961 (Aug th?): Ascent of Marinella Ourlaz, 9 years old!; (and dad "Dulo"; from Pila - Arbolle- Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête in ascent and in descent to Pila):r. A/24; A/24.

1962 (Jul th?): 8° solo and 16°? NE Ridge and N Edge from Ménabreaz Hut to base in Blantsette Pass; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo): r. G/16; A/24.

1962 (Aug th?): 9° solo and 17°? NE Ridge and N Edge, in descent from the Summit; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo): I/32; G16.

1962 (Aug th?): 10° solo and 18°? NE Ridge and N Edge from Ménabreaz Hut and Blantsette Pass; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo): r. G/16; A/24. "Agostino" THE KING of N Edge!.

1962: First lone E Wall and 3° of Wall (Variante "Direttissima" - "Superdirect Variant"); (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo; from Ménabreaz Hut - Blantsette Glacier): r. 18.

After TWENTY YEARS the "KILLING" RETURN into of the "CRIME" SCENE, with OTHER COMRADES. CANYONING in SIXTIES and EIGHTIES

Climb canyoning  in Chenaux s Waterfall
 
IN SEARCH of DAD in DARD S WATERFALLS
 
HULK S CRY
 
For the<font color=purple>  Future Force</font>  and of  <font color=red> Water Power</font>
 
<font color=red>EMOTIONS </font>&<font color=purple> SUGGESTIONS</font><font color=blue> Waterfall</font><font color=red><b>CLIMB </b></font>
 


YEARS 1963/66: Cañyoning
into Dard Valley from Dora Baltea Stream, of Chenaux Village small Waterfall to Ponteilles Alp and Waterfall, along the Comboé Torrent, in ascent and in descent; by Pian Felina seven-eight "little boys": discoverers of a new sport or forerunners of the new fashion style?

1963 (Aug th?): 11° solo and 19°? NE Ridge and N Edge from Lower Laures Lake; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo): r. G/16; A/24.

1964: 12° solo and 20° NE Ridge and N Edge; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo): r. G/16; A/24.

1965: 4° in winter, skiing (from Pila-Arbolle-S-SE Arête); (Luigi Bosio and Vareno Boreatti, C.A.I. of Rivarolo; Feb 28th): r. A/24; A/24.

1965: S-SE Arête, W Side,Variant 1965 Normal Route; (Osvaldo Cardellina, Walter Ferronato, Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Luigi Neyroz, in descent): r. A/24; A/24bis.

1966 (Jul 24th): Observations at base N Wall, right sector (W), crack-fissure a hole in the ground and in the rocks 20/22 meters~ in length, 15/22 centimetres~ in wide; (Ilario Antonio Garzotto, Dario Sergio Cardellina, 14 years old!, and Walter Ferronato in ascent N Wall of Becca di Nona, new route). See 1800/1900; Oct 12/18th, 2000 and Nov 01th, 2000. r. Y.

BECCA of NONA N Wall after 600 metres around
Becca di Nona North Wall from Northern with its three couloirs
BECCA of NONA N Wall Exit Out


1967 (Mar 19th): 1° try first ascent in winter of N-NE Ridge of Becca di Nona (3142m); (Dario Sergio Franco Cardellina, 14 years old!, Osvaldo Cardellina and Ilario Antonio Garzotto, in day from Pian Felina, quota 559 meter - Reverier Dessous - Rongachet Little Bridge and Alps - Martsaouchy Desott and Damon Alps - Plan Croix Alp - N-NE Spur of Becca di Nona to quota 2630m~ Failed for high (a meter and half) powdery snow, excluding skiing and snowshoes). r. B. di N.

1967: First solo N Wall (Pillar of Left); (Gianni Pais Becher of Auronz and S.M.A.): A/7.

1968: S-SE Arête, W Side, Variant 1965; (replay Osvaldo Cardellina and Renzo Botti in ascent and in descent): r. A/24; A/24ter.

1968: S Eperon (of Little Emilius) and W Arête; (Osvaldo Cardellina, solo): r. A/28; A/24.

1969:E Wall, new route (Route of Right) 4° of Wall, from Ménabreaz Hut; (Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Renato Quendoz): r. 20; A/24.

1970 years: To give help of mountaineers of C.A.I. Vérres from Summit in descent N Edge to Gördze (= Collar) 3360m~ of Black Triangle and again ascent to Top; (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, solo): r.G/16; A/24.

1970: N Wall, new route (Pillar of Right); (Renato Quendoz and Pino Trevisan): from Pila - Carrel Hill (bivouac): r. 04; A/24.

1971: E Wall and diagonal to N Edge, new route, and N Edge, from Ménabreaz Hut; (Guido Matteotti, solo): r. 22; A/24.

1971 (Aug 25th, 14.30'~ hour): Huge landslide in W-SW Wall of Mount Emilius, between S Ridge and (route 25ter) W-SW Wall (route 25bis); (observations in Arbolle Valley by Osvaldo Cardellina, to be beck Garin Peak, and Saverio Cusumano): r. 19; 37 G. Peak (See All routes of Garin Peak).

1972 (Aug 27? th): Rescue by helicopter of S.M.A. (School Military Alpine) Aosta of mountaineers Bruno Pagliarin, of Aosta, and friend Pino Serge, of Paris, to be snowed up in N Edge quota 3415m~ (in Sunday; in Saturday to give help to s. o. from Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, lone with supplies provisions and blankets; it's snowing!): r. G/16; G/16, partial, superior part.

1973 (Aug 26th,14.45'~ hour): In storm and it’s snowing, Cyclopean landslide from N Wall Grauson Tower to Lussert Glacier; (observations by Osvaldo Cardellina and Giuseppe Lamazzi, in Summit Garin Peak to beck S-SW Wall): r. 13; 38 G. Peak (See All Routes of Garin Peak).

1974 (Aug 04th): First ascent SW Buttress (Spur) Mount Emilius, integral route; (Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato, in day from Pila; from Pila - Chamolé Lake and Pass - Arbolle Alp - SW Arête of Soutwest Summit Trident de Comboé and crossing of three Summits (SW Summit; first ascent of Central and NE Summits, consisting of eight small towers) - Comboé Pass (3014m) - crossing S/N of Lake Gelato Peaks (3115m; various small summits, First Ascents) - Róss Pass (3078/81m~) - SW Arête Mont Róss de Comboé - Little Emilius - W Arête Mount Emilius in ascent, S-SE Arête in descent - Three Capuchins Pass - Arbolle Alp - Chamolé Pass to Pila): r. 29/D/23; A/24.

U.F.O. over AOSTA Town on August 1974

Emilius s in the SUMMIT and Surr. EMO &  SUGG  MOUNT EMILIUS  INSIDE OUT
 
<font color=purple><b>ECTOPLASM or U.F.O.  ???  in BLACK TRIANGLE</b></font>
 
<FONT COLOR=PURPLE><B>Unidentified Flying Objectc</B></fONT>
 
Emilius s in SUMMIT and Surr. EMO & SUGG EAGLE on the wing
 
Emilius s in the  SUMM and Surr.  EMO  &  SUGG NORMAL FACE  EMILIUS S
 


*** AN UNIDINTIFIED OBJECTS FLYING upon Aosta Town (400m~ over Met's and Tzalignes Points, SIGHTING from Péroulaz's/Pila's Villages Main Road). These pictures non in keeping with reality, but in order to range of examples. Specification for to prevent a speculative criticisms by usual idiots, persuaded to be an only into UNIVERSE. On the contrary, after this vision-observation, is more open-minded!

1974 (Aug 25th, 3.30'~/4.00'~ hours): To drive in route Péroulaz/Les Fleurs quota 1350m~ sighting spaceship "mother" (eight illuminated portholes, then after 10/13 suddenly off!) 400m~ upstairs the Punta di Met (U.F.O.on Aosta Town!!!); (observations by Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato, going to E Wall (First Ascent) of Emilius's Red Points): r. P. R. Em.

1975: 5° Winter,excluding skiing and snowshoes (from Gimillan - Garin Pass - S-SE Arete); (Osvaldo Cardellina, Marco Cossard, Camillo Roberto Ferronato and Giuseppe Lamazzi): r. A/24; A/24.

1975: E Wall, new route (Route of Left), Second solo and 5° of Wall; (Ezio Donzel, lone); from Ménabreaz Hut: r. 21; A/24.

1976: First replay Traverse and First Integral: Peak Garin - Reds Points (West, Central, East Summits) - Three Capuchins Point - Mount Emilius. In day from Pila; (Osvaldo Cardellina, Marco Cossard and Giuseppe Lamazzi): r. A/24;A/24.

BROKEN's SPECTRUM on EMILIUS's WEST Ridge, on Aug 1976

Emilius s in the SUMMIT and Surr. EMO & SUGGESTIONS  BLIZZARD & SNOWSTORM
 
<font color=red> EMOTIONS</font>  & <font color=purple>SUGGESTIONS  <font color=green>DOUBLE  LAKE  and  DOUBLE  EMILIUS</font>  and  <font color=purple>DOUBLE PERSONALITY</font>
 
<font color=red> EMOTIONS</font> & <font color=purple>SUGGESTIONS</font> THE <font color=purple>PHANTOM</font> of <font color=red>LONELINESS</font>
 
WOMAN GHOSTS & the black man
 
MOUNTAIN S SPLITTINGS
 


1976 (Aug 01th,11.30'~/12.00'~):*** BROKEN's SPECTRUM on NW Arête Mont Róss of Comboé ("refraction my image overturn left - right in pinnacles climbing!"); (observation by Osvaldo Cardellina in First rossing Integral from Becca di Nona to Mount Emilius, W Arête, at present Via Ferrata-2004, together Camillo Roberto Ferronato, in day from Pila): r. D/23bis/D/23; A/24. These pictures non in keeping with reality, but in order to range of examples.

1976 (Aug 08th): NE and N Edge (First? Integral in Edge from Blantsette Pass to Black Triangle and Summit) (Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato, in day from Pila): r. 16bis; A/24.
"80 itinerari di escursionismo alpinismo e sci alpinismo in valle d'aosta", by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 96/7 ..." In poco più di mezz'ora si attraversano sul filo tutte cinque le dita che la cresta forma subito dopo, assicurandosi agli stessi spuntoni sommitali, scendendo prima dell'ultimo una facile placca che scivola in direzione della parete nord; superato anche l'ultimo gendarme con un breve passaggio (III grado) e verticale si tocca l'intaglio ... Superare sul filo con buoni appigli ed appoggi il salto verticale (25 metri circa; III sup.) e ... Quando la fessura muore in un camino poco oltre la verticale proseguire lungo questo su blocchi incastrati dall'aspetto sicuri (III grado sup.); il resto ... " . Edit. Musumeci in Aosta, Jun 1977. "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina,pages 126/33 ... " Sicuramente é l'itinerario più elegante e sicuro fra quelli arrampicabili ed é stato percorso più volte, tanto da divenire una bella classica. La roccia durante la salita é buona o, perlomeno, anche se si tratta a volte di blocchi sovrapposti sicura; il più ... ". Edit. Osvaldo Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978).

1976 (Dec 18/19th): First try First Winter Ascent of North Wall Emilius, failed for high snow (over two meters, excluding skiing and snowshoes!) and bad weather; (18th): from Pila - Chamolé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass to Comboé small Valley (bivouac in cowshed); (19th): from bivouac to Plan Valé Alp (ruins) quota 2376m~ and return Comboé - Plan Fenêtre Pass to Pila: r. 07.

1976 (Dec 27/28th): First try Winter Ascent North Wall Becca di Nona, failed for high snow (See above); (27th): Roby: ... "From Pila, with enormous rucksacks, along the "Wood Ski Run, on 1.45' hour in Chamolé Station; to Chamolé Lake powdery snow over two meters and half, excluding skiing and snowshoes. In lake, bivouac (temperature -25°: cold storage! In heaven six streamers ... "); (28th): ... "From bivouac return in house: dessert, cake and sparkling wine" ... . Osw: ... "Man does not live by bread alone. To hell with the lot of them! Happy New Year!!": r. B. di N.

1977 (Dec 30th): First Winter Valletta's Point (3089/90m~); (Osvaldo Cardellina, Marco Cossard, Corrado Covi, General Edy Covi, Camillo Roberto Ferronato, Giuseppe Lamazzi and Armando Poli; from Pila - Chamolé Lake and Pass - traverse Testa Nera (2819/20m~) - Mont Bellefaçe (2969/70m~) and N-NW Arête, round trip to Pila): r. P. della V.

1978 (Jan 08th): First Winter Arpisson's Point (3035m) and Three Pointes Coupées or Coup(p)ì d'Arpisson (= Couts or flats Summits; Punte Coppi in maps. ERRONEOUS and INCORRECT observation!) (3231m Southwest Summit, 3220m~ Central Summit, 3215/17m~ Northeast Summit); (Osvaldo Cardellina, Marco Cossard (this until Arpisson's Point) and Giuseppe Lamazzi; from Gimillan - S Ridge in ascent - E couloir in descent to Pila Waterfall and Alp (1000m~!) to Gimillan): r. P. of Arp. and Three P. Coup.

1978 (Jul 14th, between 13.10'~/13.30'~ hour): Continuously of snowslides fallings and partial collapse cornice of Summit in N Wall of Mount Emilius, E sector, to Pillar of Left and Central Couloir; (observations by Giorgio Fruttaz, Osvaldo and Christian Cardellina; various snap and colour photographs in "Guida del Monte Emilius", Aosta 1978, page 120, photo).

1978 (Sep 17th): First Ascent Absolute Pointe Fleurie or Punta Fiorito (3258/60m~); (Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; from Gimillan - "Cornass" of Arpisson and SW Arête of Point of Arpisson and First Integral S-SW Spur Garin Peak: Three Pointes Coupées - Arpisson Tower - Three Lavà Points - Fleurie Pass - Fleurie Points - Garin "Carving" and S Arête of Peak): r. P. di Arp.; Three P. Coup.; Arp. Tow.; P. di Lav.; P. Fle.; G. Peak.

BABY MOUNT EMILIUS (3559m) Ancient SUMMIT and Old Statue of VIRGIN MARY, on AUG 23th, 1980




1980 (Aug 23th): Ascent in day from Pila of Christian Gianni Ilario Cardellina, 7 years old!; (with dad Osvaldo, Sandrino "Lupetto" Casalegno, Silvio Trocino and Beppe Gallo): r. A/24; A/24.

1980: N Wall (Direct - Line), new route, in day from Pila: (Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; - Comboé - Carrel Pass - Arpisson W Glacier): r./09; A/24.

NORTH WALL, New and Direct ROUTE August 1980

Emilius  North Wall ATTACK 1980
On the North face of Monte Emilius <i>3559m</i><br />
at about 200 meters from the bergschrund
<b><font color=green>EMILIUS</font > and <font color=green>NONA s BECCA<font color=blue> <i>North Walls</i></font></b>
On the North face of Monte Emilius <i>3559m</i><br />
at about 300 meters from the bergschrund
MONTE EMILIUS after North Face 1980


1981? (? th?): First? replay S-SW Slope, in descent (Great Couloir, 1902); (Franco Brevini and Company): r. A/24; A/25.

REVENENTS or "RETURNEDS" on ANCIENT EMILIUS's GLACIER, on Aug 1981

A/emilius s  Old Cross
 
Emilius s Spirits
 
Little Eliza & The Great Wind up & of the SUMMIT on 1983
 
Emilius s and Surround. EMO and SUGG Julius & THE  Veiled  VIRGIN
 


1981 (Aug 06/07/08): *** REVENENTS or GHOSTs, PHANTOMs and SPECTREs ILLUSION? also CEUX qui REVIENNENT. Trekking in three days in Mount Emilius Group; (06th): in day from Pila S-SE Arête Emilius in ascent and in descent and bivouac in Old Glacier of Emilius, quota 3050m~; (07th): crossing from Arbolle Pass - Red Points (three Summits) - Valaisan Pass - Laures Pass - Arbolle Pass and bivouac idem; (08th): from bivouac descent in Arbolle Valley - Chamolé Pass and crossing Testa Nera - Mount Belleface - Valletta's Point - Pian Bessey Point in ascent and in descent - Chamolé Pass and Lake to Pila) (Christian Gianni Ilario Cardellina, 8 years old!, dad Osvaldo and Sandrino "Lupetto" Casalegno). (06th): thunderstorm from Three Capuchins Pass to camp in Old Glacier of Mount Emilius bivouac 19.10'/21.30'~ hour; (07th): ... Dopo la discesa dall'Emilius un violento temporale ci coglie nella tendina Salewa a due piazze, posta sopra il Lago Gelato sull'Antico Ghiacciaio del Monte Emilius. Si scatena dalle 19.10'~ alle 21.30~ violentissimo e prolungato. Sono molto preoccupato per il bambino e, tra il lampeggiare dei fulmini ed il rombo "cavernoso" dei tuoni, che trovano ottima cassa di risonanza contro le pareti della Punta Rossa e dell'Emilius, faccio fatica a prender sonno. Ore 1'00~: una mano, aperta, dall'esterno mi schiaccia la testa. Sicuramente sto sognando in dormiveglia. Ma il fenomeno si ripete una seconda volta appena più in là nella notte ... Sveglio "Lupetto" che ronfa tranquillo. Lupo Lupo c'é qualcuno! ... Ma và stai sognando, chi vuoi che ci sia a quest'ora quassù! ... Però non passa molto che tocca a lui e salta sù come un grillo ... Mettiamo la frontale e, brandendo piccozza in mano, usciamo a perlustrare. Sarà un camoscio o uno stambecco? Fuori, ha candidamente nevicato. Mezza spanna, e tutto é fermo. Muto, eternamente immobile. Anche lo scuro e basso cielo pare sospeso. Com'anche i neri nuvoloni, ancora minacciosi. Ma fermi. Nulla muove e non c'é traccia neppure di un'uccellino. Torniamo a dormire, si fa per dire. Con l'alba tutto scompare e partiamo per la traversata delle Punte Rosse dal Col d'Arbole a quello des Laures. Nel tempo tutto s'eclissa nella memoria dei meandri del cervello ... e nei meandri della memoria ... Ma anni dopo, raccontando l'accaduto in uno studio ad un amico ... un vecchietto, quei piccoli vecchietti valdostani con la faccia scolpita in cartapesta. Meglio in pietra. Ascoltante in silenzio, quasi di vetro, come il suo abito grigio con camicia linda e senza cravatta e il tondo cappello da '800 alle ciglia. Tipo "scarpe grosse e cervello fino". Segue e ascolta. Poi, a sorpresa, e imprevedibilmente, si muove dal torpore sulla sua sedia ed esclama. Ma non é un'esclamazione, é quasi una sentenza. Accentuata da quell'antica cantilena valdostana mischiata a tre idiomi (Provenzal Patois, Francese ed Italiano), quasi per timore di non esser inteso ... Mahhh ..., ggniente di strano. Ren d'étrange. Ce sont les Revenents, ceux qui reviennent; sellì vicino é avvenuta una morte tragica ou violente ... Il loro Spirito n'a pas de paix ... Leurs Esprits non hanno pace" ... Il 25 Agosto del 1929, a meno di 420 m~ in linea d'aria dalla nostra tenda, la cordata dei fratelli "Dino" e Jean Charrey e di Cino Norat precipitava dalla parete Est, a poco dalla vetta. (Tutti e tre appena ventenni ...) ..." Hours 01.00'~/03.00'~ unidentifiable hand's palpations (three) from external of Salewa camp: REVENENTS!!! ... (Old Glacier haunted for RETURN'S GHOST???. To call to account). After a long time, in an friend's architectural study, a little "rustic valdotain" old man Villeneuve's Village, a strange guy "country folk may have big boots but they've got sharp wits". Silent and quiet, like his grey working chlotes. Wrinkled such as his hat peasant of the nineteenth-century. Then the long silence, to my great surprise and unexpectedly, from its chair the sentence/saying ... mixing three languages, by ancient "valdotain" singsong, (Patois Provencal, French and Italian) for certainty of the my comprehension ... : ... Rien d'étrange! Dans un lieu ou il y a eut une mort violent, les Esprits, non rasseignés, peuvent encore se manifester" ... In local customs in place close by of tragedy Spirits those presents! ... " On August 25th, 1929 accident in East Face Emilius's in try first ascent of Wall, a long way 420 metres~ from my camp: dead the Brothers "Dino" and Jean Charrey, with Cino Norat. (All a twenty-year - old boys...) .....": r. A/24; A/24 and P. R. Em. and T. Nera.; M. Bell.; P. della V.; P.di P. Bes.

Aemilius s SUMMIT & Surroundings EMO & SUGG North Face Reds Point s
 
REVERIER du TZAT ANCIENT ALPAGE & Old Fountain under the NONA s BECCA
 
SnowSTORM  and  WindSTORM  in Emilius and  LAURES  LAKES
 
Emilius s in  SUMMIT and Surroundings EMO & SUGG REVERIER of WILD CAT &  the FOUNTAIN & the little old WOMAN & the water BUCKET
 
Emilius s  in SUMMITS and Surroundings: EMOTIONS & SUGG   POLENTA and BROSSA  , by and near   CE TEUN
 


1982? (Oct th?):First replay N Wall (Pillar of Right, 1970 route). (Roberto Arbaney and Danilo Chatrian): "Ricordo che nel settore alto e terminale della Parete una scarica di sassi ci spezzò la corda ... My memory in high and terminal sector of Wall broken rope for hail of rocks"; from Pila - Carrel Pass - Arpisson W Glacier): r. 04; A/24.

1983 (Mar 03th): Second Winter solo Emilius and 6° absolute); Alberto Sciardi, solo; from Pila - Chamolé Station, Lake, "Costa" (= Mountainous Flat) and Pass - Arbolle Alp, Lakes and Valley - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête in ascent, round trip and descent from Chamolé Pass N Slope - Chamolé Lake to Pila): r. A/24;A/24.

1983 (Jul 22/3th):First replay N Wall of Black Triangle; (Dante Bibois, Alfredo Grappein and Ettore Grappein, Cogne's Mountain Guides; from? to Arpisson's Eastern Glacier): r. F/14/G/16; A/24.

1984: S Slope,new route (South Little Couloir); (Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Pila - Chamolé Pass - Arbolle Valley - Gelato Lake N shore) r. B/25bis; A/24.

1984 (Jul th various): Dressing lay-by/place for positioning Federigo Zullo Bivouac in Carrel Pass and tracing, new route, of old path historical; (Renato Antonioli, Ezio Donzel, Ugo Donzel, Livio Munier, Elviro Savioz, Ettore Savioz and Eusèbe Imperial, President of the Society Cooperative Haut Charvensod).

1984 (Jul 28th): Positioning Federigo Zullo Bivouac in Carrel Pass. By Charvensod d'en Haut Equipe with collaboration Section's of Aosta C.A.I..

1984 (Aug th?): NE Ridge and N Edge 14°? (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian and son Flavio; LAST ascent of N Edge by "Agostino" Zulian, from Les Laures Valley and Mènabreaz Refuge): r. G/16; A/24.

1984 Aug th?): Restoration (partial) and signalling in ancient route Barons Peckoz from Carrel Pass to Peckoz Pass; (Remo Comé and Carlo Lucianaz of Charvensod d'en Haut).

1984 (Sep 09th): Inauguration Federigo Bivouac from Section Aosta of C.A.I.; presents Toni Ortelli, President of C.A.I. Section of Aosta, mountaineer of C.A.A.I. and Silvio Perseghin Vice - Chairman as well as in future President.

1984: N Wall, new route, in day from Pila (Direct to Summit); in day, 9.15'~ hours, of the positioning Federigo Zullo Bivouac by helicopter, present Eusébe Imperial Mayor of Charvensod Commune; (Osvaldo Cardellina, Camillo Roberto Ferronato, Sandrino "Lupetto" Casalegno and Maurizio Castellan; from Pila - Chamolé Alp - Comboè Valley - Carrel Pass - Arpisson W Glacier. (Falling uninterrupted of rocks! Since 10.00~ hours, at the beginning of Wall until 12.00~ hours in proximity of Black Triangle Emilius's): r. 10; I/32.

NORTH WALL, New and Superdirect ROUTE July 1984

28 luglio 1984: at the base of the North face<br />
 of monte Emilius <i>3559m</i>
During the second ascent of the Direttissima route to the N face of Monte Emilius  <i>3559m</i>
On the N face of Monte Emilius <i>3559m</i><br />
 about 250 meters from the bergschrund
<font color=green><b>EMILIUS s</FONT> <FONT COLOR=BLUE>NORTH Face, Direct Summit R.te July 1984</b></font>
 N face of Monte Emilius:  on the IV move<br />
 about 480 meters from the bergschrund


1984 (Dec 30/31): First Winter N Wall and Second replay Pillar of Right (1970 route) and 7° Winter; (Alberto Chéraz: ... "Un tiro di corda veramente difficile ... One pitch of rope really hard-difficult" and Corrado Framarin; from Pila - Comboé - Carrel Pass and Federigo Zullo Bivouac (bivouac); from Bivouac Federigo Arpisson W Glacier): r. 04; A/24.

Always U.F.O. ???, from BOOK 1984/1992, between (Sep 09th/Sep ?th): In Federigo Zullo Book, property C.A.I. of Aosta, note extant:... "Alla sera dalla cima della Becca di Nona strane luci ed ancor più strani rumori verso la parete dell'Emilius ... In the evening from Summit Nona's Becca strange lights and some more strange noises from and to Emilius Wall"; (notes and observations by two mountaineers of Alessandria, my memory. See in Book of Federigo Zullo Bivouac! See above as well Aug. 06/07/08, 1981).

1985/86/87/88? (Jul/Aug th?): Crossing N-NE Ridge Nona's Becca - Carrel Pass - Arpisson W and E Glaciers - Mont Blantsette and Pass - NE Ridge and Mount Emilius N Edge in ascent (1h15', by climbingshoes, from Blansette Pass to Summit!! - W and NW Arête in descent: in day from Charvensod to Charvensod!!!; (Carlo Lucianaz, of Haut Charvensod, solo): r. B. of N. + G/16; D/23/D/23bis.

1985:(Jun 29/30th) N Wall (Central Couloir,1940? route) First replay and Second solo of Wall; (Alberto Sciardi, solo: ... "La sera di Pietro e Paolo abbiamo fatti i Fuochi Tradizionali sulla vetta della Becca. Il giorno appresso, ho salito in solitaria la Parete Nord dell'Emilius per il gran Canale Centrale, 45° e 60°, discontinui. Attacco terminale ore 5.45'; uscita sulla Cresta Ovest a 50 metri circa dalla vetta ore 9.00'. Discesa per la Cresta Ovest al Piccolo Emilius/Mont Róss/Col Róss ed al Gros Scez, ove mi attende mio fratello" ... (recents trails survey from Summit, 13.00'~ hours, by Osvaldo Cardellina and Giuseppe Lamazzi; n.d.r.). ... "At nightfall Saints's Peter and Paul Traditionals Fires in the Summit Becca Nona's. From morning, climbing lone (solo) in Emilius's North Wall by Central Great Couloir, 45° and 60°, uneven. In descent by W Ridge from Summit to Little Emilius/Mont and Róss Pass/Gros Scez (= Great block-rock, squared; n.d.r.) , where attend my brother Paul" ... . First day (29th, with brother Paolo): from Pila-Chamolé Alp-Plan Fenêtre Pass-Comboé-Gros Scez-S-SW Slope Nona's Becca, in ascent (Fires on the Summit)-E-SE Arête in descent to Federigo Zullo Bivouac; (30th): N Wall (Central Couloir, of the Firties route)- in descent W Arête-Little Emilius-Mont Róss de Comboé SW Arête-Róss Pass W Slope-Gros Scez-Comboé-Plan Fenêtre Pass-Chamolé's Alp to Pila): r. 05;/D/23/D23bis (partial)/30.

1985 (Aug 03/04th): First ascent of North Summit (Little Tower) Central Roise (3295m~, at present Punte Gianni Junod (3300m); (Osvaldo Cardellina and Giuseppe Lamazzi; from Ménabreaz Hut - W Slope Salé Pass - S Arête Salé Becca, in ascent and in descent and integral crossing to Petite Roise, Junod Points, Northern and Southern Summits, NE Ridge Grande Roise in ascent; S Arête and W Little Couloir in descent to Laures Long, Dessous Lakes, Alp and Ménabreaz Hut - Le Tramouail - La Vieille - L'Arp - Gremonenche and Grand Brissogne): r. B. di Sal.; Pt. Roi.; N L. Tow. and S Sum. of Pts. G. Jun; Gr. Roi.

1985 (Dec 22th): First Winter N-NE Ridge Nona's Becca and First lone in Winter, excluding ski and snowshoes; (Alberto Sciardi, solo and in day: ... "La scarsità di neve mi ha permesso l'approccio da Pila all'attacco senza l'utilizzo di sci o racchette da neve. Sulla "Gran Placca", di 120 metri circa mi sono tenuto sul filo di sinistra, Est" ... (route Aug 03th, 1967. See as well Guida "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 136, variant route 58ib); n.d.r.). "... Sono salito scattando numerose foto sulla cresta, la Città di Aosta e sulla Nord dell'Emilius" ... The lack of the snow i am allowed not to use ski or snowshoes. On to "Great Plate", 120 meters~, climb Easth Edge. Climbing and taking a various snaps and pictures on crest and to Aosta Town and North Face Emilius" .... From Pila-Chamolé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé Alp-Morion Alp (ruines) - W Slope Spur of Becca di Nona and N-NE Ridge in ascent-in descent S-SW Slope-Gros Scez - Plan Valé (ruins) - Comboé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Chamolé Alp to Pila): r. B. di N.-N-NE Ridge.

Emilius's THREE CAPUCHINS (3255/60m~, the major) from North and Northwest on JUL 04th, 1986

EMILIUS s the MAJOR CAPUCHIN
 
EMILIUS s CAPUCHIN from NW
 
EMILIUS s THREE CAPUCHINS, the Major (3255/60m~)
 
<B>MOUT EMILIUS</B> & <B>THREE CAPUCHINS</B>
 
To Three CAPUCHINS, Three CAPUCHIN s POINT and Pass
 


1986 (Jul 04th): Ascent by Alessandro Giusto Cardellina, 10 years old!, with dad Osvaldo and First Absolute in ascent Central Capuchin, N Side (3255/60m~); in day from Chamolé Lake and Pass - Arbolle Valley - Three Capuchins Pass and S-SE Crest round, trip to Pila: r. A/24; A/24 and Cen. Cap.

1986 (Jul 06th, 11.45'~ hour: Osvaldo Cardellina, in storm reached by lightning (left ear) on Summit Valletta's Point (3090m) and paralysed in the whole body, even losing the power of speech length of four hours, in crossing Pila - Chamolé Lake and Pass - Testa Nera - Mount Bellefaçe - Punta of Valletta, together Giuseppe Lamazzi: r. P. della V.

Jul 06th, 11.45'~ hour REACHED by LIGHTNING, but Jul 06th, 11.46'~ hour SURVIVING!!!




1986: S-SW Wall of Great Pillar, new route from Gelato Lake Direct Route to "Grey Fall" and W Crest (Direct-Line); (Osvaldo Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; Pila - Arbolle Valley - Gelato Lake - W-SW Wall and W Crest): r. C/27; A/24.

19??: Try First Winter E Wall; (Guido Matteotti, Sergio Matteotti and Primo Tatto "Tato"); Les Laures Valley - Ménabreaz Hut - quota 3000m~ on Blantsette Glacier to the base): r. H/18.

1988: Second try, First Winter E Wall; (Abele Blanc and Sergio Matteotti; quota 3000m~ on Blantsette Glacier to base): r. H/18.
(priv. inf. Abele Blanc Dec, 2009).

1988: SE Wall, new route, Direct Ascent; (Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Pila - Arbolle Valley - Gelato Lake - crossing W/E Slopes of Three Capuchins Pass to base SE Face) r. L/33; A/24.
(Mountain Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2010 (unpublished); Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 121; Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005.)

1989: First Winter E Wall and 8° Winter; (Abele Blanc and Carlo Lucianaz; Les Laures Ménabreaz Hut - Blantsette Glacier to base; bivouac, nearby exit out of face): r. H/18; A/24(priv. inf., by Abele Blanc Oct 09th, 2009 and Carlo Lucianaz Oct 06th, 2009).

YEARS '90 (In the Nineties): Great landslide - dry onto Mount Père Laurent for collapse of headland NE from "La Raye de la Tor" quota 2120m~ (below the "Cross de la Tor quota 2300m~") to Gremonenche's Alp; (priv. inf., by Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, Dec 16th, 2009).

1990: S-SW Slope, new route (S Spur, S Slope and W Crest); (Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Pila - Chamolé Pass - Arbolle Valley - Gelato Lake): r. B/25ter; A/24. (Mountain Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013 (unpublished).

1990: N and NW Wall of Black Triangle and N Edge; (Couloir "Fantasma - Phantom Narrow Gully"); (Aldo Cambiolo and Pier Luigi Sartore; Pila - Comboé Alp - Carrel Pass - Federigo Zullo Bivouac ; from bivouac Arpisson W and E Glaciers to base): r. 12; 11/09/07. (Bivouac Federigo Book, 1984/1992. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, pages 124/5. Priv. inf., by Aldo Cambiolo Nov 15th and Dec 02th, 2009).

1993 (Jul 17th): Try to up the top quota 3060m~ N Wall's of Black Triangle (new route, Direct); (Aldo Cambiolo, Roberta Vittorangeli, Fabrizio Villanis and Roberto Lale: ... "TRIANGOLO NERO DELL'EMILIUS VIA NUOVA "diretta. Oggi abbiamo attrezzato due tiri domani torneremo per concludere la via. La salita si presenta molto dura e complessa. Vedremo domani ... BLACK TRIANGLE EMILIUS'S NEW ROUTE "direct. Today of rope in climb two pitch (80/90 metres in length n.d.r.) tomorrow return for to conclude route. Ascent very hard and complicated. Tomorrow ... " ; Federigo Zullo Bivouac - Arpisson W and E Glaciers to base) r. 15; A/24.
(Bivouac Federigo Book, 1992/2007; priv. inf., by Aldo Cambiolo, Nov 15th and Dec 02th, 2009)

1993 (Jul 18th): Second Try up the top quota 3060m~ N Wall of Black Triangle (new route and Direct); (Aldo Cambiolo, Roberta Vittorangeli, Fabrizio Villanis and Roberto Lale: "TRIANGOLO NERO RISALITI E RINUNCIAMO x BRUTTO TEMPO TORNEREMO ... BLACK TRIANGLE CLIMB AND RENUNCIATION FOR BAD WEATHER DOING AGAIN"..." ; Federigo Zullo Bivouac - Arpisson W and E Glaciers): r. 15; A/24.
(Bivouac Federigo Book, 1992/2007; priv. inf., by Aldo Cambiolo, Nov 15th, 2009 and Dec 02th, 2009)

1993: N Wall Black Triangle (Direct Route) and N Edge; (Aldo Cambiolo and Roberta Vittorangeli: ... "Via nuova sul Triangolo Nero dell'Emilius. La via attacca proprio sotto all'enorme diedro giallo e lo risale tutto. Poi spostandosi a sinistra, attraversa la via Bozzetti e sale sino allo spigolo N-N-E a sx del becco sommitale. Molti difficile (original n.d.r.) con passaggi di VI° VII° (6a - 6b). La parte bassa é rimasta parzialmente chiodata. Roccia come sempre molto rotta e pericolosa. Comunque é senza ombra di dubbio una delle pareti più affascinanti della Valle ... Partenza Pila-Aosta ... New route on Black Triangle Emilius's. At the beginning of route climb below the vertical of yellow dihedral and go up completely. Then towards left, between Bozzetti route to N-N-E Edge on left hook-bill of the Summit. MD with VI° and VII° pass (6a - 6b). Into lower part pitons in existence, partially. Broken and risky quality of rock. However charming face in mountains Aosta Valley's ... Departure to Pila-Aosta Town" ...; Pila - Comboé Alp - Carrel Pass and Federigo Zullo Bivouac; from bivouac Arpisson W and E Glaciers to Triangle base: r. 15; A/24.
(Bivouac Federigo Book, 1992/2007. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, pages 124/5 and sketch-draft; B&W extant, with tracks of the routes, by Aldo Cambiolo, in page 122. Priv. inf., by Aldo Cambiolo, Nov 15th, 2009 and Dec 02th, 2009).

1994 (Summer, more probably Jun 19th): S-SW Ribbing and S Slope, new route to right from Gelato Lake "Direct Route to Summit"; (Osvaldo Cardellina, Roy Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; Pila - Arbolle Valley - Gelato Lake - S-SW Wall and S Slope): r. C/27bis; A/24.

1994: Laures's Holiday/Festivity nearby Dessous Lake and Ménabreaz Hut; non-stop until, 2009 from Emiliu's Friendly People "Les Amis des Laures". (priv. inf., by Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, 2009/2010).

1994 (Dec 28/29th): First Winter Ilario Antonio Garzotto Point; (mountain guides Pietro Giglio and son Matteo; (28th): from Gremonenche - L'Arp - La Vieille - Le Tramouail - Laures Dessous Lake and Ménabreaz Hut; (29th): from hut - Long Lake - W slope of Leppe Pass, by ski - S-SW Slope and Arête in ascent and in descent - Leppe Pass -Long Lake - Ménabreaz Hut, Le Tramouail to Gremonenche and Grand Brissogne Village, in descent.

1995 (Jan 02th): 9° Winter (from Chamolé Alp - Comboé Alp and Comboé/Arbolle Pass - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête, round trip to Chamolé Alp); (Carlo Lucianaz, Remo Comé, of Charvensod d'en Haut and Lorenzo Gorret, of Verrayes): r. A/24; A/24.

1995 (Aug 03th, three days before the "Fîta de l'Oumbra" - "Shadow Festivity", in Grand Brissogne Village: enormous landslide for explosion one watersac from arête between Lo Cordagnë (Seneva's Becca) in quota 2800m~, "Les Tornalles" mountainous area, to Grand Brissogne Torrent and Dora Baltea Stream nearby quota 530m~; (remarks, by Osvaldo Cardellina and priv. inf., by Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, Dec 16th, 2009).).

1996 (Sep th?): Crossing Grand Brissogne Village/Les Laures Valley and Dessous Lake/"Arête des Trois Curés"/Emilius Summit towards Lussert Lakes and Valley Cogne; solo and in day (of Brissogne mountain guide Corrado Gontier); from Gremonenche Alp- Laures Dessous Lake - Blantsette Pass - NE Ridge and N Edge Mount Emilius - S-SE Arête in descent - crossing N/S Three Capuchins Peak-Arbolle Pass - Lussert Lakes and Valley - Grauson Nuove and Vieux - Pila Alp - Ecloseur Alps and Bridge - Gimillan Village to Cogne Tourist Resort): r. G/16; A/24 and T. Cap. Peak.

1996 (Sep 29th): Reconnaissance for positioning of Cross in the Punte Gianni Junod, Southern Summit (dead in Aiguille Jean Joseph Croux, SE Wall, Arthur Ottoz route, with Ilario Antonio Garzotto; Sep 29th, 1969, 9.30’~ hour); (Osvaldo Cardellina and Giuseppe Lamazzi from Gremonenches Alp, Laures Dessous Lake and Ernesto Ménabreaz Hut - W Slope Salé Pass and Becca. Descent from Ménabreaz Refuge to be in so's company of Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian to Gremonenche, in day): r. B. di Salè.

1996 (Oct 05/06th): Try positioning Cross on the Junod Points, interrupted for violent snowstorm, in gradual increase and by a sudden drop in temperature: from Salé Pass (3008m) reached the refuge, after protected oneself and shelter into a hideout under the Summit Salé Becca (3137m). Hidden the Cross in Summit. Even immediate return/re-entry by R.A.I. Television's helicopter, staggered and tottering through the wind along and over the Laures Dessous Lake; at once descent from Laures Valley to Airport of Aosta Town! (views in the clouds from Summit); (Osvaldo Cardellina, Camillo Roberto Ferronato and Franco Lucianaz from (05th) Ménabreaz Hut - Salé Pass to Becca of Salé in ascent and in descent to Ménabreaz Hut and Gremonenche Alp.): r. B. di Salé.

1998 (Jul 19th): Inauguration and opening of Arbolle Refuge in Arbolle Valley and Lakes, by Cooperative Charvensod d'en Haut, President Eusèbe Imperial.

1998 (Jul th?): N Wall and W Crest, 1927 Route, third in ascent and third solo on Face North, in day from Pila; (Christian Gianni Ilario Cardellina, lone; from Pila - Comboé Alp - Carrel Pass and Federigo Zullo Bivouac - Arpisson W Glacier to base): r. E/07; A/24.

1998 (Aug 9th): N Wall, new route, and W Arête (Couloir of Right and 4° solo on North Face, in day from Pila - small Comboé Valley and Carrel Pass); (Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; from Pila - Comboé Alp - Carrel Pass - Arpisson W Glacier to Wall North base): r. 03/D/23; A/24.

2000 (Oct 12th since a Thursday evening/18th until a Wednesday evening): Flood-Inundation through Dora Baltea Stream and Comboé Torrent; and (15th, on a Sunday morning 9.17~ hour) by "explosion" Rongachet little Bridge (seven deads and destruction various houses in small Villages Saint Bénin, Chenaux and Chènieres into Pollein Municipality). Great landslide in canyon - couloir (fallings rocks and waters above 800~ meters. New canyon formed amongst the forest, wood and basic moraine!) from N Wall of Nona Becca basis to Forest Morion, Ponteilles Alp and Comboé Torrent, in Dard Valley.

2000 (Oct 16th, Monday, since 13,00~ hour): Course-climbing and observations in the Dard Valley from Chenaux/Saint Bénin Villages (Pollein), Alpine Gymnasium of S.M.A. (Alpine Military Training of Aosta) and waterfall, canyon to Rongachet small Bridge ("explosion" inlet - sac of water. (See October 15th); Alessandro Giusto Cardellina, undergraduate student in Natural Science, Turin Faculty. Film VHS in existence).

2000 (Nov 01th): Climb on landslide into canyon-couloir from quota 1550m~ to quota 2350m~ at base of N Wall Nona Becca (three sectors detached, separated, unstuck and unglued through a water leak in East side; at base crack/fissure a hole in the ground and in the rocks 300/350 metres~ in length extant; 02/04 metres~ in wide. (See remarks Jul 24th, 1966 and observations since to the end 1800 at the beginning of 1900 centuries); (Osvaldo Cardellina, Alessandro Giusto Cardellina and Prof./Headmaster Gianfranco Vicentini, of Aosta. Film VHS extant. 1800/1900; Jul 24th, 1966 Oct 12/18th, 2000 and Nov 01th, 2000): r. X.

2003 (Aug 09th): Great landslide from N Wall, near quota 3200m~, between Little Emilius and Mount Róss Comboé's to Arpisson W Glacier; (priv. inf., by Engineer Andrea Cento, Nov 2009 and in Federigo Zullo Bivouac Book, 1992/2007 footnote, by Engineer and Armando Biagiotti, Members Section's of C.A.I, Aosta)..

2003 (Sep 12th): Landslide into NW Wall of Coupées Arpisson Points from quota 3050m~ in East moraine of Plan Bessey; (observations of Osvaldo Cardellina and Emilio Bertona. Pictures by Emilio Bertona extant).

THRILLING Cañyoning DESCENT on February 2004 (erroneus and wrong in the pictures 2003), by snowshoes into LUSSERT's TORRENT, ANALOGOUS ADVENTURE of Doctor ANSEL FALCOZ on March 1939, by ski

<b>Alpeggio Pila e Cascata</b>
 
<b>Cascata del Lussert<//b>
 
<b>Cascata del Torrente Lussert</b> e laghetto
 
<b>Thrilling descent by snowshoes in Lussert Torrent</b>
 
<b>Adventure in Grauson Valley</b>
 


2004 (Feb 12th): Thrilling descent, forced, by snowshoes into Torrent Lussert Grauson Valley; from Grauson Vieux Alps (2273m~), Créuzet Alp (2244m), Pila Waterfalls and Alp (between 2156/2003m~) to Écloseur/Tchezeu Desott Alps and small bridge (route the outward journey risky in snowshoes, motive for highs swellings of snow; return even worse with waterwells emerging from riverbed!; (Osvaldo Cardellina and Emilio Bertona: ... "On the round bad. On the return it was worse! ... "All'andata da cagarsi addosso. Al ritorno dalla padella nella brace, peggio che andar di notte!" ... (Bertona snaps, in existence. See above analogous and similar adventure a 65 years later and one month exactly: Mar 12th, 1939; remarks, by Doctor Anselme "Ansel" Falcoz in RM C.A.I. - Magazine 1939, page 392; in descent from Emilius's Three Red Points (First Winter).

LUSSERT's TORRENT, Cañyon, Créuzet Alp on Summer 1992




2004 (Apr 19th,16.43'/48'~ hour): Various snowslides and great avalanche into N Wall, Central Couloir, of Nona Becca; (observations by Osvaldo Cardellina from House and observations from Home, with various snaps, by Emilio Bertona, mountaineer and alpine photographer).

2004 (Aug 22th): Ascents of Giacomo Bramini, 7 years old! and Eleonora Bramini, 9 years old!, with Marinella Ourlaz (See Aug th?, 1961) THE MOST YOUNG LADYS Emilius Mount; (and Guido Boggio, Rofano Mariella, Elena?, Danilo Panier, Mario and Stefania Bramini, dad and mama Giacomo; C.A.I. Rivarolo): ... "From Arbolle Hut in 2h 55' and 3h 05' on Summit: ... Siamo giunti in 9 persone di cui 2 bimbi di 9 e 7 anni sono stati bravissimi e per una settimana sono dispensati dalla mamma a fare I compiti. Giornata bellissima ... Thanks to success in ascent Emilius's, exemption by mama to do one's homeworks! W Emilius!!!": r. A/24; A/24.

2004 (Sep 05th): Young Expedition: ... Bell'Emilius x l'amico Emilio!!" ... . Ascent by Lucky Ponno, C.A.I. of Germanasca Valley, 5 years old, the best - class in 1999!: FIRST among the young people in the Emilius Summit!!! (and Erica Ponno "Riky", 11 years old, Cecilia Chiolerio, 11 years old, Margherita Gilli "Marghe", 13 years old: ... dopo aver molto faticato x salire… SIAMO ARRIVATI e NE VALEVA LA PENA!! E' stata (x adesso) la punta + alta della nostra vita! ... To arrive on Emilius, first in height we. After hard work in ascent up the Summit. It's worth trying!! and Valter Ponno?, Riccardo Gilli, Elio Gilli, "Riky" and "Marghe" dad, Gemma Emilius's wife, Emilio Chiolerio (ex 109° Aosta SMALP Course, Military School) Cecilia's dad: ... "Finalmente dopo (tanti) anni di sguardi dalla finestra della camera della Testafochi ho raggiunto questa madonna! questa ... cima, con la mia famiglia e i miei amici. ... After much years gazes's from window Military Barracks Testafochi in Aosta Town reached this Madonna of Emilius's Summit, with friends and my family." ... ) C.A.I. Val Germanasca. From Arbolle Hut - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête in ascent and in descent to Refuge: r. A/24; A/24. (Summit Book, Jul 20th, 2003/Aug 02th, 2007).

2004 (Oct 20th): Remarkable landslide in high sector N Wall Black Triangle's from House in Saint Christophe - Nicolin Village (Private observations by Antonio Giani, mountaineer and alpine photographer; Oct 20th, 2004 and Dec 14th, 2009).

2005 (Aug 21th, 16.15'/30'c. hour): Enormous landslide in N Wall, Right or West Couloir Nona's Becca, from quota 2870/80m~ to Morion stony ground, quota 2420/2380m~; (observations by Osvaldo Cardellina in Pian Felina, by Giuseppe Lamazzi in Saint Christophe - Capoluogo (Chief Town) House and by lady Vincenzina Zucca Capuzzo in House Saint Christophe - Rouye Village. "La Stampa" - dally, Aosta Valley page ... (Enrico Martinet article: ... "Crollo di un canale sulla parete Nord della Becca di Nona" ..., information by Osvaldo Cardellina; colour photo). Emilio Bertona's photocolours Aug 31th from House).

2006 (May 11th, 12.39'/40'~ hour): Great avalanche in E-NE Slope from "La Dent" Becca di Nona's or "Jag", 2736m: fall over more than 650 meter~ from quota 2670/80m~ to plateau and Torrent Arpisson; (between Arpisson Desott Alp, 1951m and Damon 2010m); observations by Osvaldo Cardellina and by Emilio Bertona; Bertona's snaps and various photographs).

2006 (Jul 22th): Positioning of Cross on the South Summit Junod Points (See try of Oct 06th, 1996); (Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian of Luin and Ernesto Ciocchetti of Pian Felina Fractions; from Ménabreaz Hut - E Slope Salé Pass and crossing towards Petite Roise-North and South Summits to Gianni Junod Point, round trip to Ménabreaz Hut): r. Pt. Roi.; P. Jun.

2006 (Aug 22/23th): Monitoring by sound waves in simultaneousness from Becca di Nona, Mount Emilius, Mount Pére Laurent and Becca of Viou; (Claudio Frezet, C.A.I. of Châtillon and Company of A.R.P.A. Aosta Valley; (Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007).

2006 (Oct 25/26th): N-NW Wall Black Triangle's, new route ("Senza Parole" - "Bocconi Amari"), in ascent and in descent: ... "1° SALITA TRIANGOLO NERO VIA – "SENZA PAROLE" ("Bocconi amari") Disl. 400 mt Diff.V - M7 - WI 6 DURA Rossano è un fuoriclasse." ... (from Federigo Zullo Book 1992/2007 and private informations by Ezio Marlier November 2009); (Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier; Pila - Comboé - Carrel Pass and Federigo Zullo Bivouac; from bivouac Arpisson W and E Glaciers to base): r. 16:/16.

2006 (Nov 06/07th): First replay N-NW Wall of Black Triangle, new route Libera-Marlier ("Senza Parole" - "Bocconi Amari"), W Arête (Via Ferrata-2004, in descent; (Roger Schàli, CH, and Robert Jasper, D; from Pila - Comboé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Zullo Bivouac; from bivouac Arpisson W and E Glaciers to base) (from Federigo Zullo Book 1992/2007): r. 16; D/23/23 bis.

2006 (Nov 18/9th): N Wall, new route (Right Route - "Spirito Libero") and W Arête; (Ezio Marlier; from Pila - Comboé - Carrel Pass and Federigo Zullo Bivouac; from bivouac Arpisson W Glacier to base) (from Federigo Zullo Book 1992/2007 and private informations by Ezio Marlier November 2009) : r. 02/D/23; A/24.

2009 (Oct 07th): S-SW Little Pillar, new route; (Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; from Pila - Arbolle - Frozen Lake to base): r. 25quater.

2009 (Dec 01th): Great landslide in E Wall Becca di Nona's, sector S between, first and second "ribbing", of Becca; (observations by Osvaldo Cardellina from Les Ayettes Alps, 1463m).

2010 (Aug 21th): Long and powdery landslide in N Wall, Right also West Couloir Becca di Nona, from quota 3060/50 m~ to Morion stony ground, quota 2420/2380m~; same gully and same day of 2005! (observations by Osvaldo Cardellina in Pian Felina in last afternon towards evening on August Saturday 21th; colorpicture in exsitence, by Emilio Bertona on Sunday 22th).

2013 (May 31th): First Descent by snowboard in N Wall Nona's Becca, Right Sector or West (Ourlaz's Spur, 1940); (Davide Capozzi and Julien Herry). (R.A.I. 3 of Aosta Valley TV notice in Programs of June 06th, 2013 and Planet Mountain com. Davide Capozzi and Julien Herry May 31th, 2013).

Part. C)- HISTORY of MOUNT EMILIUS IN WINTER and DETAILED BIBLIO, REPORTS, REMARKS and PRIV. INFORM.

C- SPECIFICALLY) - Synthesis in chronological order of WINTER ascents and climbs (well-known, private informations and Bibliography).

Handwritten in Pian Felina on 2009 and to correct in High Druges "Furnace Area" on Sep 13th, 2009 and in Valpelline "Pic Nic" Area on Sep 10/17/20th, 2009 and in Ozein - Turlin Dessus - Bren Alp on Oct 17th, 2009.

In memento of Angelo BOZZETTI, Mountain Guide of Valpelline, dead in Mont Blanc - in descent from Aiguille Noire de Péuterey (after W Wall First Winter Ascent, Ratti - Vitale Route), on Mar 03th, 1967.

33 ROUTES OF MONTE EMILIUS (3559m)
Angelo BOZZETTI


In MOUNT EMILIUS:

1928 (Mar. 17/18/19th):
Amilcare Crétier, F. David, Albert Deffeyes, G. Lamastra, Basilio Ollietti, Guido Perolino and L. Pession; (17th): from Aosta to Ponteilles Alp (bivouac); (18th): from Ponteilles Alp and Waterfull to Comboé Alp and try first winter absolute of Mount Emilius, falled for bad weather: ... "Domenica 18, si avrebbe l'intenzione di salire al Aemilius, ma per l'incertezza del tempo si rimane a scherzare nei pressi di Comboé"... from "Mountain Diary Ascensioni in Valle d'Aosta 1921-1933", by Amilcare Crétier page 35; Edit. in Bologna Jul 1993." (bivouac); (19th): from Comboé Alp-Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and E-SE Arête, First? Winter of Nona's Becca. Skiing: r. B. di N.
("Mountain Diary - Ascents in Aosta Valley 1921 - 1933" -"Diario Alpinistico Ascensioni in Valle d'Aosta 1921 - 1933", by Amilcare Crétier, pages 35/36; Edit. Nuovi Sentieri Section of C.A.I. Verrés and Library in Bologna, Jul 1993).

1932 (Jan. 06/07/08th): Lino Binel and Amilcare Crétier; thry failed for: ... "…Këss, a Herbolles arr. 10.40. Nevica e fa vento. Ritorniamo a Comboé." ...… Blizzard, to Arbolle arrival 10 hour 40'. It's snowing with wind. To return to Comboé." ... (From Mountain Diary - Ascents in Aosta Valley 1921 - 1933, by Amilcare Crétier, pages 63/64; Edit. Nuovi Sentieri, Jul. 1993); (06th): from Pila - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé Gameperkeer House (bivouac); (07th): from Comboé House - Gran Plan Alp (ruins) - Comboé/Arbolle Pass to Arbolle Lake and Alp; return to Comboé (bivouac); (08th): from Comboé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Chamolé Alp - Pila - Pont Suaz to Aosta Town in "schy". Skiing: r.A/24. (Mountain Diary 1921-1933, by Amilcare Crétier, pages 63/4; Edit. in Bologna, Jul 1993.).

1934 (Feb 15th): Amedeo Berthod, Lino Binel and Leonardo Cossard; from Pila - Arbolle - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête, skiing; (FIRST WINTER ABSOLUTE of mountain): route A/24. (See above 1928,1932 and RM-Magazine C.A.I. 1934, page 215. "Alpinismo Invernale" by Ercole Martina, page 85; Edit. Baldini & Castoldi in Milan, 1968. "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina, page 114; Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, pages 107/121 and in "Part Ski/Mount. page 391: Monte Emilius 3559."; Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005.

1940 (winter 1940/1941): Nerino Gobbo, solo; from Pila - Comboé-Gros Scez - Carrel Pass? or Róss Pass ? - NW or SW Arête Mont Róss of Comboé-Comboé or Arbolle Valley ? - or S Slope Little Emilius - W Arête Monte Emilius (First Winter of W Arête and First solo and Second Absolute Winter): r. D/23/23 bis/30.
(See above 1928, 1932, 1934 and G.A.R.S. Book of Trieste. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, page 110; Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005).

1949 (Feb th ?): Pietro "Piero" Rosset and Franco Garda; in day from Pila - Comboé - Carrel Pass - Arpisson Glaciers - Tête or Mont Blantsette - Blantsette Pass - NE Ridge and N Edge (First Winter NE Ridge/N Edge and Third Absolute): r. G/16 G/16. (See above 1928, 1932, 1934, 1940/41 and priv. inf. Pietro "Piero" Rosset 1972/73; 1977/78; 2007; Dec 24th, 2009; Jan 16/17th, 2010. "Guida del Monte Emilius" by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 26, 127; Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic" by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, pages 42, 118; Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005)..

1965 (Feb 18th): Luigi Bosio and Vareno Boreatti, C.A.I. of Rivarolo; in day from Pila - Arbolle Valley and Alp - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête (4° Winter), skiing: r. A/24. (See above 1928, 1932, 1934, 1940/41, 1949 and "On the Summit" ASCI Book 1965, propriety's Section Aosta A.S.C.I. (Scouts) of Aosta. "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina, page 114; Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978)..

MOUNT EMILIUS Fifth Winter Ascent, on Jan 05th, 1975

WINTER EMILIUS 1975 to Great PARADISE Group
 
From  Gimillan Village EMILIUS s SUMMIT Five WINTER January 05th, 1975 BAFFOSWALD
 
On EMILIUS s SUMMIT January 05th, 1975 Five WINTER ASCENT in day from Gimillan
 
Mike Burke on the EVEREST s SUMMIT? NO: Camill Roby FERRONATO in day from Gimillan EMILIUS s SUMM WINTER  75
 
 WINTER EMILIUS to TERSIVA POINT/LAVINA s TOWER GROUPs
 


1975 (Jan 05th):
Osvaldo Cardellina, Marco Cossard, Camillo Roberto Ferronato and Giuseppe Lamazzi; in day from Gimillan - Arpisson Valley - Garin Pass - Arbolle Valley - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête (5° Winter), excluding ski and snowshoes: r. A/24. (See above 1928, 1932, 1934, 1940/41, 1949, 1965 and Mountain's Diary 1964/2013 (unpublished) by Osvaldo Cardellina. "On the Summit" ASCI Book 1975, propriety Section's ASCI of Aosta. "Guida del Monte Emilius" by Osvaldo Cardellina, page 114; Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978.

1976 (Dec 18/19th): First try Winter N Wall Emilius's. Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato: insuccesful for snow - drift, snow - bound (too much high snow and excluding ski and snowshoes) and bad weather; (18th night): from Pila - Chamolé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass to Comboé (bivouac in cowshed of Comboé Alp); (19th): from bivouc Plan Valé Alp (ruins) and to return to Comboé - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Pila) r. E/07. (See above and Mountain Diary 1964/69, Vol. I°, by Osvaldo Cardellina (unpublished).

1980 (Dec 28th): Try first Winter Traverse Garin Peak/Red Points/Mount Emilius, interrupted on Arbolle Valley for avalanche in crossing of Chamolé Pass and descent by Arbolle/Comboé Pass to Comboé - Plan Fenetre Hill - Pila. Osvaldo Cardellina, Sandrino "Lupetto" Casalegno, Camillo Roberto Ferronato, Ivo Ferronato and Giuseppe Lamazzi, excluding ski and snowshoes. Mountain Diary 1964-2013, by Osvaldo Cardellina and "Mountain Notes", by Camillo Roberto Ferronato.

AVALANCHE from CHAMOLE' PASS to ARBOLLE VALLEY, on Dec 1980

Emilius s in the SUMMIT & Mountain CHAIN & Surroundings EMOTIONS & SUGGESTIONS  BEFORE of the AVALANCHE
 
Emilius s in the SUMMIT and Mountain CHAIN Surroundings EMOTIONS & SUGGESTIONS AFTER AVALANCHE
 
After avalanche , SANDRINO s  or  LUPETTO s  BAPTISM of FIRE
 


1983 (Mar 03th): Second Solo in Winter and 6° absolute of mountain, Alberto Sciardi,solo: ... "Per paura della valanga mi sono tenuto, dal Lago di Chamolé, ad Est risalendo la "Costa" omonima,divisoria con il Vallone del Comboé; l'ho percorsa sul crinale da Nord a Sud raggiungendo il colle. Poi per il lungo Vallone di Arbolle, sempre con gli sci, sino al Lago Gelato ed al Passo dei Tre Cappuccini, ove li ho lasciati. Salita e discesa per la solita "via normale" e, nuovamente in sci, ad Arbolle con risalita al Colle di Chamolé e, questa volta, "scivolata" diretta sul lago ed a Pila ... For fear of the avalanche I kept, Lake Chamolé, going back East to the "Coast" of the same name, dividing the Valley of Comboé, I traveled from North to South on the ridge to the summit. Then along for the Valley of Arbolle, always on skis, as far as Frozen Lake and the Three Capuchins Hill, where I left them. ascent and descent for the usual "normal way", and again in skiing, with lifts to Arbolle to Chamolé, and this time, "slipped" live on the lake and Pila " ... ; from Pila - Chamolé Station and Lake - "Costa" of Chamolé (=Mountainous Flat) and Pass - Arbolle Alp, Lakes and Valley - Gelato Lake, skiing to Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Crest in ascent and in descent round trip to Chamolé Pass - N Slope in descent to Loch and Pila. r. A/24;A/24.
(priv. inf. by Alberto Sciardi Jan. 21/22th, 2010 and action colorphotos of the 1983).

1984 (Dec 30/31th): Alberto Chéraz and Corrado Framarin; from Pila - Comboé - Carrel Pass Federigo Zullo Bivouac- N Wall (First Winter), Pillar of Right (First Winter and 7° in Winter route) route: r. 04.
(See above and priv. inf. by Corrado Framarin Jun 08th, 2009 and Alberto Chéraz Jun 08th, 2009).

19?? (? th?): Guido Matteotti, Sergio Matteotti and Primo Tatto "Tato"; E Wall try in Winter from Les Laures Valley - Ménabreaz Hut - quota 3050m into Blantsette Glacier: r. H/18. (See above and priv. inf. Guido Matteotti Oct 09th, 2009; Dec 15th, 2009 and Lady Jole Nov 30th, 2009).

1988 (? th?): Abele Blanc and Sergio Matteotti; E Wall try in Winter quota 3050m on Blantsette Glacier. (See above and priv. inf. Abele Blanc Oct 08th, 2009).

1989 (Jan 01th): Abele Blanc and Carlo Lucianaz; from Ménabreaz Hut-Blantsette Glacier - E Wall (First Winter and 8° in Winter), Central route (1935); r. H/18. (Priv. inf. Abele Blanc Oct 08th, 2009 and Bibliography).

1995 (Jan 02th): Carlo Lucianaz, Remo Comé and Lorenzo Gorret; from Chamolé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé/Arbolle Pass - Arbolle - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass - S-SE Arête (9° in Winter), skiing: r. A/24. (See above and priv. inf. Carlo Lucianaz Jun 09th, 2009 and Remo Comé Oct 12/13th, 2009; Dec 08th, 2009).

*** Noteworthy ascents at the beginning of Springtime (*) or in late Fall (**)

1942 (*second half of Apr): Giulio Adolfo Ourlaz "Dulo" and lieutenant Emanuele Tosana; from Pila - Comboé-Carrel Pass - Arpisson Glaciers - N Wall, new route ("Mammellone Route" - "Great Breast") and N Edge; r. 11/G/16,A/24. (See above and priv. inf. by Giulio Adolfo Ourlaz 1977/78).

YEARS '40/'50/'60 (In the Forties, Fifties, Sixties): Giulio Adolfo Ourlaz "Dulo"; solo, or in company, several times from Pila-Chamolé Lake and Pass-Arbolle Alp, Lakes and Valley - Gelato Lake - Three Capuchins Pass-S-SE Arête, round trip from Pila to Pila, skiing: r. A/24;A/24. (See above and priv. inf. by Ourlaz 1977/78).








In Mount Emilius MOUNTAIN CHAIN:

1889 (Dec 20th): Nona's Becca (3142m): First Winter Absolute? (Emilio Martelli, Silvio Miglietti, C.A.I. of Turin and Jean Baptiste Aymonod, mountain guide of Valtournenche); from Aosta Town - Charvensod - Combatissiére Wood - Comboé Alp - Plan Valé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass - E -SE Arête, round trip: r. B. di N. ("Guida delle Alpi Occidentali Alpi Graie e Pennine Vol. II. Parte Seconda", page 116, by Giovanni Bobba and Luigi Vaccarone. Edit. Section's Turin of the C.A.I. in Turin, May 25th, 1896. M. Diary 1921-1933, by Amilcare Crètier, (published 1993). "Mountain Diarys", by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2010. "Mountain Diary", by Ilario Antonio Garzotto 1964/69 (unpublished). "80 itininerari di escursionismo alpinismo e sci alpinismo in valle d'aosta", by Osvaldo Cardellina. "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1978. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, 2005).

YEARS '20/'30 (In the Twenties/Thirties): Pointe de la Pierre or "La Pera" (2653m), Pointe du Drinc (2663m) and Pointe du Couïss or Pic de la Tombe (Quota 2661m) ascents in winter by ski (mountaineers of Aosta Town); from Aosta City - Pont Suaz - Leysettaz "Ski Run" - Les Fleurs - Pila - Grand Grimod or Grimondet Alps - E Slope de la Pierre Pass's and S Arête, round trip. (G del MEm, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1978, pages 54/57).

1928 (Mar 19th): Nona's Becca (3142m): First Winter Absolute or Second? (Amilcare Crétier, F. David, Albert Deffeyes, G. Lamastra, Guido Perolino, Basile Ollietti and L. Pession); from Aosta - Charvensod - Pila - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé - Plan Valé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass, skiing - E-SE Arête, round trip.r. B. di N. (See above "Becca di Nona 1889").

1936 (Dec 25/26th): Garin Peak (3461m): First Winter Absolute, skiing to Garin Lake, (Anselme Falcoz and Pierluigi "Piero" Falcoz); from Pila - Chamolè Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass-Comboé Arbolle Alp, Lake and Valley - Garin Pass and Lake - SW Arête in ascent - N Wall, in direct route, in descent - W Slope of Valaisan Pass in descent to Arbolle Valley and Pila: r. 19 and 37 G. Peak. (RM C.A.I.-Magazine 1937, by Anselme Falcoz, page 197. Priv. inf. 1977/78 by Anselme Falcoz. "Mountain Diarys, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013 (unpublished). "80 Itinerari di escursionismo alpinismo sci alpinismo in valle d'aosta", by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 90/1. Edit. Musumeci in Aosta, Jun 1977. G del M Em by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1978, page 75/6. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005).

1939 (Feb 5/7th): Grauson Tower (3233/40m~): First Winter Absolute, skiing to at base N Wall (Anselme Falcoz, solo); from Pila - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé Alp - Comboé/Arbolle Pass - Arbolle Alp and Lakes - crossing W/E Slopes of Valaisan Pass - N Wall, right sector (W) and W Ridge; from Summit N-NE Ridge (half) and N Wall in descent to Lussert Glacier and return to Pila (Valaisan Pass round trip): r. G. Tow. (RM C.A.I.-Magazine 1939, by Anselme Falcoz, page 391; Edit C.A.I. 1939. Priv. inf. 1977/78, by Anselme Falcoz. Osvaldo Cardellina, 1978, pages 97/100. M Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013 (unpublished). Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005).

1939 (Mar 11/12th): three Emilius's Red Points (West Summit 3401m, Central Summit 3395/6m~; East Summit 3399/400m~): First winter absolute, skiing to half Ridge S-SW (Anselme Falcoz, solo); from Aosta Town-Pila-Plan Fenêtre Pass-Comboé-Comboé/Arbolle Pass-Arbolle Alp and Lakes-W Slope of Vallaisan Pass-S-SW Arête and crossing of te three Summits,round trip to Pila and Aosta City: r.P.R. dell'E. (RM C.A.I.-Magazine 1939, by Anselme Falcoz,page 392; Edit. C.A.I., 1939. Priv. inf., by Anselme Falcoz ,1977/78. Giro del Monte Emilius, by Osvaldo Cardellina,pages 102/4. Mountain Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013 (unpublished). 80 itin. in Ao Val, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1977. G dei M d'It Em R dei B P del M Av, by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005).

1940/41 (In winter): Mont Róss de Comboé (3301m): First Winter? (Nerino Gobbo, solo); Wfrom Pila? to Little Emilius and W Arête Mount Emilius's: r. D/23bis or 30. (GARS Book of Trieste 1940 or 1941?, by Nerino Gobbo. G dei M d'It Em R dei B P del M Av, by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005). M Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina 1964/2010 (unpublished). 80 Itin in Ao Val, by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 94/5, 1977. G del MEm, by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 139/41, 1978).

1940/41 (In winter): Little Emilius (3342m): First winter (Nerino Gobbo, solo); from? route? - Little Emilius and W Arête in ascent: in descent?: r. Lit. Emi. (GARS Book of Trieste 1940 or 1941?, by Nerino Gobbo. Mountain Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2010. 80 It. in Vda, by Osvaldo Cardellina,pages 94/5, 1977. G del MEm., by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 137/9, 1978. G dei M d'It Em R dei B P del M Av, by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005 and see above "Mont Róss de Comboé").

YEARS '40/50' (In the Forties/Fifties): Pointe du Coüiss (Blizzard Point) or Pic de la Tombe (2660/1m~); in the Summit Simone Faccarello “Arno” Bivouac (old little construction, Cables Railways Society Pila's property. Always open, unequipement): ascents in winter by ski from Aosta Town to Summit! From Summit one sole descent a drop of 2100 meters to City! On Sundays entertainment after World War!!! (fans lovers mountain's of Aosta): r. P. du C.
(M Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013 (unpublished). 80 itin. itin. in Ao Val., by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 54/7, 1977. G del M Em by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1978, pages 102/3. P. di F. in V d'Ao, by Franco Lenzi, 1988. G dei M d'It Em R dei B P del M Av, by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005. Priv. inf., by Emilio Bertona: on the way back in Aosta Town with inquisitives friendlys:..."How many people hare there at Pila today? Ohhhh! A lot there are more than twenty!"...The good Old Days!!. To do a translation into Italian: ..."Al ritorno ad Aosta Città agli amici curiosi di sapere qual calca ci fosse sulle piste di sci di Pila: "Ohhhh! Un casino, c'eran più di venti persone!"...Bei tempi d'oro!! Privates informations in several times and specifically Jan 19th, 2010).

1967 (Mar 19th): first try N-NE Ridge Nona's Becca in winter, failed for high powderysnow (one meter and half), excluding ski and snowshoes; (Dario Franco Sergio Cardellina (15 years!), Osvaldo Cardellina and Ilario Antonio Garzotto; from Pian Felina 559m~ - Reverier Dessous Alps - Rongachet Little Bridge and Alps - Martsaouchy Desott and Damon Alps to quota 2500m~ in N-NE Spur of Becca di Nona, round trip.) r. B. di N.
(Mountain Diary 1964/69, Vol. I°, by Osvaldo Cardellina (unpublished).

1973 (In winter?): Leppe's Points (East Summit 3306m; Central Summit 3305m~; West Summit 3292/3m~): First Winter?, skiing (group mountaineers C. A. I. of Ivrea or Rivarolo? And Roberto Aruga and Cesare Poma C.A.I. of Turin?); from Gimillan - Grauson Valley - Vallonet Pass and S-SE Arête round trip: r. P. di Lep. (R della M-Magazine n° 36,1979,page 122, by Roberto Aruga. M Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2010 (unpublished). 80 Itin. in Ao Val, by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 89/90. 1977. G del M Em, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1978, pages 177/182. G dei M d'It Em R dei B P del M Av, by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005).

1975 (Mar 31th): Leppe's Points (East Summit 3306m; Central Summit 3305m~; W Summit 3292/93m~): First Winter Absolute?, skiing (priv. inf. Ruggero Busa, Daniele Parini and Cesare Roullet); from Gimillan - Grauson Vieux and Nuove Alp - Corona Lake - W Slope Vallonet Pass - S-SE Arête, round trip: r. P. di L. (See above "Punta di Leppe" and priv. inf., report, remarks and connections by Ruggero Busa, 1977/78).

1976 (Dec 27/28th): first try in Winter N Wall Nona's Becca: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; from Pila-Chamolé Station and Lake; (28th): bivouac; temperature -27°. Failed for high powdery (two meters), excluding ski and snowshoes; return to home. r. B. di N. (Mountain Diary 1964/69 Vol. I°, by Osvaldo Cardellina).

***
NONA s BECCA WINTER December 23th, 1977  Arriving
 
<font color=green><b>NONA s BECCA</FONT> <FONT COLOR=BLUE>After Martelli and Amilcare, third WINTER ASCENT</B></FONT>
 
NONA s BECCA WINTER
 


1977 (Dec 23th): Osvaldo Cardellina: "I have seen better days…" and Camillo Roberto Ferronato: "Scarce snowy", a lot of "verglass" (ice as bright as a new pin n.d.r.); a "hectic/frozen" day! Frontally North Wall Emilius's, deep green and in dark threats: you can tell from the start what it's going to be like!". First Winter S-SW Slope of Becca Nona's in ascent and in descent and 2° or 3° absolute in Winter?; excluding ski and snowshoes, in day from Pila-Chamolé Alp-Plan Fenêtre Pass-Comboé Alp-Plan Valé (ruins)-Gros Scez-S-SW Slope round trip in day to Pila: r. B. di N. (See above 1989 and 1928. Mountain Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2010. G. del M Em , by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 143/5, 1978. Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, page 131. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005.

1977 (Dec 30th): Testa Nera or Aoüille Neira (2819/20m~): First Winter Absolute, excluding ski and snowshoes and crossing to Mont Bellefaçe and Punta della Valletta, round trip (Osvaldo Cardellina, Corrado Covi, General of Alpine Troups Edy Covi, Camillo Roberto Ferronato, Giuseppe Lamazzi and Armando Poli); from Pila-Chamolé Station, Lake and Pass-NE Ridge Testa Nera in ascent and crossing to Mount Bellefaçe and Valletta's Point, round trip: r. T. Nera, M. Bell.-P. della V. (Mountain Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013 (unpublished). Mountain Diary, by Ilario Antonio Garzotto, 1964/69 (unpublished). 80 itin. in Ao Val, by Osvaldo Cardellina,pages 102/3, 1977. G del M Em, by Osvaldo Cardellina,pages 59/63, 1978. G dei M d'It Em R dei B P del M Av by, Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005).

1977 (Dec 30th): Mont Bellefaçe (2969/70m~): First Winter Absolute, excluding ski and snowshoes and crossing to Punta della Valletta, round trip (Osvaldo Cardellina, Corrado Covi, General of Alpine Troups Edy Covi, Camillo Roberto Ferronato, Giuseppe Lamazzi and Armando Poli); from Testa Nera - N Arête and crossing to Valletta's Point, round trip: r. T. Nera; M. Bell.; P. della V. (See above "Testa Nera").

1977 (Dec 30th): Valletta's Point (3089/90m~): First Winter Absolute, excluding ski and snowshoes (Osvaldo Cardellina, Corrado Covi, General of Alpine Troups Edy Covi, Camillo Roberto Ferronato, Giuseppe Lamazzi and Armando Poli); from Pila - Chamolé Station, Lake and Pass - NE Rige Testa Nera - crossing to Mont Bellefaçe and Point of the Valletta, round trip: r. T.Nera; M. Bell.; P. della V. (See above "Testa Nera" and "Mont Bellefaçe") and "P. di F. in Vd'Ao, by Franco Lenzi, 1988).

***
Punta della Valletta <i>(3090m)</i> First Winter 1977
 
<b><font color =blue>GENERAL WINTER</font> 1977</b>
 
<b>On <font color=green>SUMMIT VALLETTA s POINT</font> (3090m) <font color=blue>First Ascent Absolute</font> December 30th, 1977 <font color=red>The GENERAL WALRUS</FONT></B>
 


1978 (Jan 08th): Punta or Testa Tsaplana (2659m I.G.M.; 2675 BeV;2681m R.A.V.A. Map): First? Winter (Osvaldo Cardellina, Marco Cossard and Giuseppe Lamazzi); from Gimillan - Perché (Perdzé) Alp - E-SE Slope: r. T. Tsa. (Mountain Diarys, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013 (unpublished).G del MEm, by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 96 and 86/96, 1978..

1978(Jan 08th): First Winter, excluding ski and snowshoes (Osvaldo Cardellina, Marco Cossard and Giuseppe Lamazzi); from Gimillan - Perché (Perdzè) Alp (ruins) - E-SE Slope Testa Tsaplana - SE Arête Point of Arpisson - Pila SW Pass - SW Arête Pointes Coupées, Southwest Summit and crossing to Central, Northeast Summits and Pila SW Pass: r. T. Tsa.; P. di Arp.; P. Coup Three. (Mountain Diarys, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2010 (unpublished). G del M Em, by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 95/6, 1978. G dei M d'It, by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005).

1978 (Jan 08th): Pointes Coupées d’Arpisson (Southwest Summit 3231m; Central Summit 3222/3 m~; North-northeast Summit 3216/7m~): First Winter Absolute, excluding ski and snowshoes (Osvaldo Cardellina and Giuseppe Lamazzi; from Gimillan - Perché Alp - Punta Tsaplana - Punta di Arpisson Pila SW Pass - SW Arête Pointes Coupées, Southwest Summit and crossing to Central Summit - Northeast Summit to Pila NE Pass and E Couloir (1000m~!) in descent to Pila Waterfulls and Alp: r. T. Tsa.; P. di Arp.; P. Coup. Three. (See above "Punta di Arpisson").

1980 (March in the beginning): Nona's Becca in Winter, skiing (Bernardino Sciardi, Alberto Sciardi and Paolo Sciardi; from Pila - Chamolé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé - Plan Valè - S-SW Slope in ascent and in descent, round trip to Pila. (Mountain Diary, by Amilcare Crétier, 1921-1933. Edit. Jul 1993). Mountain Diary, by Ilario Antonio Garzotto, 1964/69 (unpublished). Mountain Diary, by Gianni Junod, 1964/69 (unpublished). Mountain Diary, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013 (unpublished). Mountain Diary, by Walter Ferronato, 1965/66 (unpublished). G del M Em, by Osvaldo Cardellina, page 145, 1978. Mountain Diary, Vol. I°, by Alberto Sciardi, 1980/87 (unpublished) and priv. inf., report and remarks; action photo Alberto Sciardi, Dec 22th, 2010 of the 1980).

1985 (Dec 22th): Becca di Nona (3142m): First Winter N-NE Ridge, excluding ski and snowshoes, left route (Alberto Sciardi, solo; from Pila - Chamolé Alp - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Comboé Alp -Morion Alp (ruins) -W Slope Spur's N of Becca di Nona - N-NE Ridge, of Left Route (variant 58ib in "Monte Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", page 136) in ascent; in descent S-SW Slope - Gros Scez - Comboé - Plan Fenêtre Pass - Chamolé Alp to Pila: r. B. di N. N-NE Rid.
(See above "Becca di Nona 1889" and "Becca di Nona 1980").

1994 (Dec 28/29th): Punta Ilario Antonio Garzotto (3273/4m~): First winter absolute, skiing from Mènabreaz Hut to Leppe Pass (Pietro "Piero" Giglio and son Matteo Giglio, Valpelline's mountains guides; from Grand Brissogne - Gremonenche - L’Arp - La Vieille - Le Tramouail - Laures Dessous Lake and Ménabreaz Hut; (29th): from Refuge - Long Lake - Les Laures Valley - W Slope Leppe Pass and S-SW Arête, round trip to Ménabreaz Hut and Grand Brissogne: r. P.I.A. Garz. ("Montagnes Valdôtaines-Magazine Sections's C.A.I. of Aosta Valley, n° 2 Jun, 1995, by Matteo Giglio: " ... Nel primo tratto non difficile costituito da grandi massi, che però obbligavano a mantenere viva l'attenzione in quanto erano ricoperti da neve, procedemmo slegati per non rallentare ulteriormente la progressione e per non avere complicazioni con la corda. L'ultimo tratto, invece,si presentava assai affilato con roccia non troppo solida e per di più ricoperta da neve fresca. Decidemmo così di calzare i ramponi e di legarci. Infine,dopo essere passati nei pressi di uno stretto colletto con cornice di neve ed aver affrontato alcuni passaggi di II°,raggiungemmo l'aerea vetta…" .... Mountain Diarys, by Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013 (unpublished). G del M Em, by Osvaldo Cardellina, pages 187/8, 1978. G dei M d'It Em R dei B P del M Av, by Giulio Berutto/Lino Fornelli, 2005).

20..? (??th): First Winter Garin Peak S-SW Spur and S Ridge and First Winters Absolute Arpisson Tower, Lavà Points and Fleurie or Fiorito Point from Pila NE Pass; (Erik Rosazza and Company, skiing in initial part?): r. 10. Internet Personal Web, by Erik Rosazza.

<b><font color=blue>TESTA NERA</FONT> at <font color=blue>WINTER</FONT> 1968</B>
In EMILIUS S S and Sourround. EMO SUGG For VICTORY FLIGHT
Arpisson s Superior Pasture & Emilius North Face 2006
Emilius s  in the  SUMM and Surr.  EMO &  SUGG FROG S Lake
The SUN EMILIUS s  Mountain CHAIN

Part D)- HISTORY OF MOUNT EMILIUS SOLO (LONE ASCENTS) and DETAILED BIBLIO, REPORTS, REMARKS and PRIV. INFORM.

D- in PARTICULAR)-Synthesis in order, SOLO (LONE) , ascents and climbs.
(well - known,private informations and Bibliography).


Handwritten in Pian Felina Fraction on Aug 25th, 2009 and to correct in Bielo on Aug 30th, 2009 and in Le Côteau/Saint Julien and in Pouria Pasture - Vargney - Servette on Sep 02th, 2009 and in Le Tronchet/Great Saint Bernard (HC).

In memento of Alexandre "Dino" CHARREY, Jean CHARREY and Cino NORAT on the occasion of eightieth anniversary of death (Monte Emilius E Wall, on Aug 25th, 1929).

1906
(Jul. th?): Nino Tofani (of Saint Marcel) first replay and first solo of E Arête. r. I/32; A/24.
(RM - Magazine C.A.I. 1907, page 49. "Guida del Monte Emilius" of Osvaldo Cardellina; page 128. Edit. Osvaldo Cardellina, Dec 1978).

Years '30: Emilio Comici (of Trieste try? up to the top Black Triangle. r. F/14.
(Piero Falchetti in RdM n° 9, Jul 1972, pag. 44).

1936 (Aug ?th): Anselme Falcoz (of Aosta) 1° crossing from Fernier (Pila) Garin Peak - Three Reds Points - Monte Emilius - Arbolle Valley - Fernier. r. 36; A/24. (priv. inf. by Anselme Falcoz 1977/78. "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina; page 74. Edit. Osvaldo Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978).

1937 (? th?): Augusto Leone (C.A.I. Turin's) try up to the top quota ? probably 3060m, of Black Triangle. r. F/14.
(RM - Magazine C.A.I.).

1940/41 winter: Nerino Gobbo (of Trieste) First winter W Arête and 2° in winter absolute of mountain (from Carrel Pass or Róss Pass?). r. D/23bis/23 or 30; A/24.
(Gars Book of Trieste and GMd'I. "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic" by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli; page 110. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I., Mar 2005).

1947 (Aug th?): Anselme Falcoz (of Aosta) 2° crossing from Garin Peak to Monte Emilius try up to the top Three Capuchins Pass. r. 36. (priv. inf. Anselme Falcoz 1977/78 and "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina, page 74, Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978.).

1955 (Aug 16th): Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian (of Brissogne) First solo of NE Ridge and N Edge. r. G/16
(priv. inf. Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian, Nov 2009).

1956, 1958, 1959, 1960, 1961, 1962 (three times, once in descent), 1963, 1964: Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian (of Brissogne's) 2°, 4°, 5°, 6°, 7°, 8°, 9°, 10°, 11°and 12°; ("Agostino" THE KING of NE Ridge and N Edge or Trois Curès Arête!!!).
(priv. inf. by Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian, Nov/Dec 2009 and Jan/Feb 2010).

1956 (? th?): Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian Brissogne) try up to the top quota 3060m of Black Triangle. r. F/14.
(priv. inf. and "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978).

1958 (? th?): Angelo Bozzetti (of Aosta, mountain guide of Valpelline) NE Ridge 3°? solo and E Wall, new route. r. G/16/17. (priv. inf. 1966/67. Mountain's Diary, by Angelo Bozzetti (unpublished) and "Guida del Monte Emilius", by O. Cardellina, page 135. Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978).

1962 (Sep 05th): Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian (of Brissogne) 1° solo E Wall (Central route, 1935). r. H/18.
(priv. Inf., by "Agostino" Zulian Nov 2009: "Sep 02th in G. del MEm., 1978 and in Em./R. dei B./P. del M, Avic, 2005 = ERRONEUS; exactly Sep 05th". "Guida del M. Emilius, by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978), GMd'I. "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli: Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005.

1967 (Jul 27th): Gianni Pais Becher (of Auronzo and S.M.A. of Aosta) 1° solo N Wall (Pillar of left, 1927) r. E/07.
(A.S.C.I. Aosta Book," G. of M. E.", by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. in Aosta,Dec.1978 and GMd' I "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli. Edit. in Milan, Mar 2005.

1968 (Oct 13th): Osvaldo Cardellina (of Pian Felina-Charvensod) 1° S Éperon of Little Emilius and W Arête. r. 28.
(Diary by Osvaldo Cardellina 1964/2010 and GMd' I. "M. Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", March 2005.

YEARS '70 (In Seventies ? th?): Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian (of Luin - Grand Brissogne) N Edge in descent from Summit to Gördze (Colletto quota 3360mc.) and in ascent to Summit in help of mountaineers C.A.I. of Vérres, 13°? Solo, partial superior part. r. G/16; G/16; A/24. (priv. inf., by "Agostino2 Zulian Nov/Dec 2009 and Jan/Feb 2010).

1971 (Sep 30th): Guido Matteotti (of Aosta) E Wall and N Edge 13°? Solo, partial superior part or N Edge), new route. r. 22; A24. (Priv. inf. 1977/1978 and Oct/Nov 2009; Mountain's Diary, by Guido Matteotti and "G. of M. E"., 1978).

1972 (Aug 27th): Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian (of Luin - Brissogne) NE Ridge and N Edge, 15°? Solo, partial inferior part to quota 3415mc., in ascent and in descent, to give help to s. o. (with supplies provisions and blankets; it'snowing!) of Bruno Pagliarin and Pino Serge, to the snowed up in N Edge. r. G/16; G/16. ("Gazzetta del Popolo" - dally - newpaper Aug 29th, 1972. Priv. inf. 1977/78, by Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian. "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina, page 133. Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, Dec 1978, 1978. Priv. inf. Nov 2009, by Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian).

1975 (Aug 16th): Ezio Donzel (of Charvensod) E Wall, new route of left. r. 21 (priv. inf.; "G. of M. E.", 1978; g dei Md'It., by Lino Fornelli and Giulio Berutto. Edit. in Milan, Mar 2005)..

1978 (Oct 12th,1978): Danilo Chatrian (of Aosta) NE Ridge and N Edge, 16°? Solo. r. G/16; A/24. ("On the Summit" ASCI Book 1985, propriety Section's ASCI of Aosta. "Montagnes Valdôtaines" Anno VII – N. 1 (15) Feb 1980, Magazine of Section Aosta C.A.I. Priv. inf. Danilo Chatrian Jan 04th, 2010).

1982 (Jul th?): Elio Saluard (of Brissogne) NE Ridge and N Edge, 17°? Solo. r. G/16; A/24. (priv. inf. Elio Saluard and Sergio Pession Dec 12th, 2009).

1982 (Sep 23th): Flavio Zulian (of Luin - Brissogne) NE Ridge and N Edge, 18°? Solo r. G/16; A/24. (priv. inf. Giovanni "Agostino" Zulian Dec 16th, 2009).

1983 (Mar 03th): Alberto Sciardi (of Aosta) S-SE Crest 2° Solo in winter and 6° absolute winter of mountain r. A/24;A/24. (priv. inf. by Alberto Sciardi Jan 21th, 2010 and action's colorphotos Jan 22th, 2010).




1984 (? th?): Elio Saluard (of Brissogne) NE Ridge and N Edge, 19°? Solo. r. G/16; A/24. (priv. inf. Elio Saluard Dec 12th, 2009).

1984 (Jul 08th): Osvaldo Cardellina (of Pian Felina) 1° S-SW Slope Little Couloir, new route. r. B/25/A/24. (Diary of Osvaldo Cardellina 1964/2009 and GMd'I. "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", Mar 2005.

1985 (Jun 30th): Alberto Sciardi (of Aosta) N Wall (Central Couloir, 1940?) 1° solo. r. 05. (priv. inf.).

1985/86/87?: Carlo Lucianaz (of Charvensod) crossing from N-NE Ridge of Becca di Nona - NE Ridge and N Edge (20°?, solo) Monte Emilius's in ascent and W Arête in descent. r. G/16. (priv. inf. Carlo Lucianaz Aug 2009).

1988 (Aug 06th): Osvaldo Cardellina (of Pian Felina) 1° SE Wall, Solo. r. L/33. (Diary by Osvaldo Cardellina 1964/2013 and GMd'I. "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", Mar 2005.

1990 (Jun 10th): Osvaldo Cardellina (of Pian Felina) 1° S Ridge and S-SW Slope, Solo. R. 25 bis. (Diary by Osvaldo Cardellina 1964/2010).

1991 (Jun 23th): Osvaldo Cardellina (of Pian Felina) 1°? (or Nerino Gobbo in winter 1940/41) solo W Arête from W Slope of Róss Pass. r. 30. (Diary of Osvaldo Cardellina, 1964/2013).

1996 (Jul 12/13th): Paolo Ferrario "Orso Rosso" of Montevecchia - Lecco) 21°?, solo NE Ridge and N Edge. R. G/16. (priv. inf. Paolo Ferrario Jul 12th, 1996. Book Sep 26th 1992/Jul 01 2007 of Federigo Zullo Bivouac).

1996 (Sep th?): Corrado Gontier mountain guide of Valsavarenche/Esprit de Montagne (of Établoz - Brissogne/Saint Pierre) 22°?, Solo NE Ridge and N Edge and Three Capuchins Peak - Arbolle Pass to Grauson/Lussert Valley and Cogne). r. G/16; A/24 and T. Cap. Peak.
(priv. inf. Dec 22th, 2009).

1998 (Jul th?): Christian Gianni Ilario Cardellina (of Grand Pollein) 2° solo N Wall (Pillar of left, 1927) and 3° solo of wall. r. E/07; A/24. (priv. inf. Giuseppe Lamazzi Jul 19th, 1998 and Christian Gianni Ilario Cardellina Aug 1998. "Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and Lino Fornelli, page 116. Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005).

1998 (Aug. 09th): Osvaldo Cardellina (of Pian Felina) N Wall (1° Couloir of Right, new route) and 4° solo of wall. r. 03.
(Diary of Osvaldo Cardellina 1964/2010 and Guida dei Monti d'Italia "Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M. Avic", by Giulio Berutto and lino Fornelli,pages 42 and 117.Edit. C.A.I./T.C.I. in Milan, Mar 2005.

2005 (Jun 10/11th): Bernard Brighi (of C.A.F. - Metz) 23°?, solo NE Ridge and NE Edge r. G/16. (Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007 of Federigo Zullo Bivouac).

2006 (Nov 18/19th): Ezio Marlier (of Chenaux - Pollein, mountain guide) N Wall (Right Route - "Spirito Libero" "Free Spirit"), new route. r. 02. (priv. inf. and report,by Ezio Marlier Nov 2006 and Dec 11/12th 2009 and photos in CD, Jan 2010).

SOLO (LONE) ON VIA (IRONROUTE) “FERRATA” 2004

"SOLITARIES" THROUGH VIA (ROUTE) “FERRATA” 2004




2005
(May 28th): Marco Caparello - KAPS (?) (of C.A.I. Orbassano, P. Giordano School - Turin) 1° Solo?; (from ?: ...
"Salito dalla ferrata, condizioni severe con ghiaccio e neve, molto impegnativa. Vetta impareggiabile."...
- Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Zullo Bivouac: W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24.
(Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2005(Jul 03th): Alfredo Mammoliti of Aosta) 2°? Solo; (from Pila - Comboé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Zullo Bivouac: W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24.
(Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007).

2005 (Jul 17th): Gian Mario Navillod (of ?) 3°? Solo; (from Pila - Comboé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass......
: ..."splendida giornata, cielo terso con solo un velo di foschia e qualche nuvola alta che copre la punta del Rosa. Bellissima vista su Gran Paradiso."...(Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2005 (Jul 18th): "boy" name ? unknown (of Varese) 4°? Solo; (from? - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004, in violent thunderstorm). r. Vferr.: A/23bis/A/23; A/24.
(priv. inf. Ezio Fragno in Arbolle Alp, in storm).

2005 (Jul 28th): Giuseppe Algarot (of C.A.I. UGET Turin) 5°? Solo; (from? : ..."Salito per la Ferrata dal bivacco Federigo in h. 5 esatte". Trovatala di grande soddisfazione ma molto lunga. Infatti sono "scoppio". Complimenti per la realizzazione di una così bella opera in alta quota (sic! comment - note by n.d.r.) Un saluto ai compagni di nottata. Ciao!"... - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23/A/24. (Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul. 29th, 2006).

2005 (Jul 31th): Pier Giorgio Bordi (of C.A.I. Aosta) 6°? Solo; (from Pila - Comboé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: ..."(x cresta W (Ferrata) C.A.I. di Aosta 6.20' da Pila ; (3 h. dal Colle Carrel) 31.8.1975 1° salita personale x Via normale 30 anni fa!!"...; from Carrel Pass): W Arête - Via Ferrata - 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24. (Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2005 (Aug 04th): Marco Ingongono? (of C.A.I. Venaria Turin) 7°? Solo; (from?: ..."Traversata dell'Emilius: partenza in giornata da Torino: CRESTA NORD (? NW del Mont Róss n.d.r.) – CRESTA OVEST - CRESTA SUD"...: W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). R. Vferr.:D/23bis/D/23; A/24. (Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2005 (Aug 10th): Matteo ? (of ?) 8°? and 9°? Solo (from? - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac "...(per la seconda volta")...: W Arête - Via Ferrata - 004). r. Vferr. :D/23bis/D/23; A/24?. (Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2005 (Sep 04/05th): Rudy Vallet (of Saint Pierre) 10°? Solo; (05th): (from Pila - Comboé - Gros Scez - Becca di Nona - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: ... "Vetta ore 10,30. Dal Bivacco Federico Ferrata molto ben allestita (tranne ultimo pezzo ----!!"...) Temperatura mite poco vista causa tante nuvole (ma molto bello lo stesso!!): W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24. (Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007).

2005 (Oct 30th): Pierpaolo? (of C.A.I. Trivero) 11°? Solo?; (from?: "Salit(i) dal Bivacco Federigo in 5 H E 30'. Giornata stupenda, panorama a 360° senza una nuvola. Poca neve". In the Summit preceding a group of roped climbers: ..."Saliti dal Bivacco Federigo in 5h29'. Panorama idem come sopra Dario Edo Ale Davide C.A.I. IVREA (VERRES)"...: Via Ferrata - 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24. (Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2006 (Jul 23th): Angèle Barrel (of ?) 12°? Solo?; (from Pila, start 4.08' hour, - Comboé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: A/223bis/A/23; A/24. (Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2006 (Jul 25th): Steve Smith (from Ossett, West Yorkshire - England) 13°? Solo; (from?: ..."Here to do Via Ferrata on Monte Emilius Bwyo at Lac d'Chamolé and had a long slog over the tops to get here for 12.00 an,up and down the 'Via Ferrata' back in to Aosta by this evening. (Hovefully) as always what a stunning place. Left at 13.00 Returned at 16.30 sabed most and ran when possible. Thunder storms on the way down. Glad to be.(?) ortting this." ... - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac to Summit: Summited on 25.7.06 at 14:50 on THE VIA FERRATA): W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; idem or A/24?
(Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007 and Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2006 (Jul 30th): Vittorio Fer (of ?) 14°? Solo; (from? - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: ..."In cima dalla Cresta Ovest percorsa grazie alla Ferrata"... - ..."In the Summit from W Ridge thanks to Ferrata".... My comment (n.d.r.): ..."W an honest - upright person. Don't worry: to be not the only one who knows!"...). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23;/24. (Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2006 (Jul 30th): Nicola Roditrekkers ? (of Pavia) 15°? Solo; (from ? - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: 1.00 Via Ferrata (Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2006 (Aug 08th): Thomas Burrett (of ? Acorn) 16°? Solo;(from? ... "Bove da boug| Bissins it up c..k Grace"... (Grace Smith n.d.r.) + Alex (Alex Moxon n.d.r.)... "little Catch yer lat..! Monte Emilius here we? Com?"... - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac to Summit or try?: W Arête-Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; idem or A/24 ?. (Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007).

2006 (Aug 09th): Andrea Colliard (of Hône) 17° Solo; (from Pila - Comboé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: "...Chiedo se può al MONTE EMILIUS di far guarire mia mamma al collo GRAZIE"...: r. Via Ferrata - 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24. (Summit Book Jun 28th, 2005/Jul 29th, 2006).

2006 (Aug 10th): Piero Ricaldone (of C.A.I. Chivasso) 18°? Solo; (from? - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D23; A/24. (Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007).

2006 (Aug 21th): Fabrizio Boffo (of Volvera - Turin) 19°? Solo; (from : ..."Arrivo da Pila (part. Ore 9.00) + proseguimento x M. Emilius via ferrata e ritorno via Arbole." ... - Comboè - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24.
(Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007).

2006 (Aug 22/23th): Giuseppe Cane (of ?) 20° Solo; (from ? - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac; (23th): ..."Ferrata Emilius"...: W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. Vferr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24. (Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007).

2006 (Nov 10th): Marco Gaida (of Aosta) 21°? Solo; (from Pila - Comboé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo Bivouac: ..."Ferrata Emilius - Solitaria - x arrivo (?) tutto OK"... W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004, round trip? and 2°? in day). r. VFerr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24. (Bivouac Federigo Book 1992/2007).

2008 (Aug th???, ..."Il mio amico Battista non é forte per le date, ma non é il solo!"..."My friendly Battista non good for dates, but non only him!"... n.d.r.): Battista Pieiller (of Fénis) 22°? Solo, (from Pila - Comboé - Gros Scez - Carrel Pass and Federigo bivouac: W Arête - Via Ferrata 2004). r. VFerr.: D/23bis/D/23; A/24. (priv. inf. by Baptiste Pieiller Dec 10th, 2009, Jan 22/23th, 2010).



ACKNOW




All Acknowledgements

***


Collaborations and contributions (reports, connections, remarks, private informations, snaps and photographs) by:

Roberto ANDRIGHETTO, mountaineer, tripper-hiker and photographer naturalist, of Aosta (priv. inf. and connections Sep 29th, 1994 and Dec 23th, 2009; snaps and action photos 1994).
Roberto ARBANEY, mountaineer of Aosta (priv. inf. Sep 27th, 2003 and Jan 04th, 2010; reports Sep 27th, 2003 and Dec 04th, 2010).
Emilio BERTONA († September 20th, 2010, Monte Zerbion), mountaineer of Aosta (snaps, pictures and action photos 1998/2010).
Giulio BERUTTO († 2005, Turin), mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Turin and Author-Writer mountain guides books (priv. inf. 1999).
Walter BIANQUIN, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Pian Felina (Charvensod) (action photos 1965).
Valdo BINEL, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Aosta (priv inf. 1977/78; action photo dad's Lino).
Abele BLANC, mountain guide Cogne and Himalayst, conqueror of all fourteen 8000 and two times the Everest (priv. inf. Oct 09th, 2009).
Renzo BOTTI, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of ont Suaz/Aosta (action photos 1968/1973).
Riccardo BOTTI, tripper-hiker and mountaineer of Pont Suaz/Aosta (action photos 1968).
Angelo "Angelino" BOZZETTI († March 03th, 1967, Aiguille Noire de Péuterey - Mont Blanc), Valpelline mountain guide (priv. inf. 1966 and Feb 1967; reports 1966 and Feb 1967; by wife "Mountain Diary until 1967 (unpublished) " and B&W photo in the Sixties).
Ruggero BUSA, mountaineer and mountaineer skiing, of Senin (Saint Christophe) (snaps, action photos and connections 1968/69).
Aldo CAMBIOLO, Valpelline mountain guide and icefallsclimber (priv. inf. and reports Nov. 15th, 2009 and Dec, 02th 2009; remarks Nov/Dec, variaous years, 2009).
Alessandro Giusto CARDELLINA, mountaineer, research worker naturalist, physiotherapist and Author-Writer of graduation Thesis "Variazioni glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" ("Glacials Variations in the Mount Emilius's Mountain Chain"), Studies University of Turin, Faculty of Mathematical, Phisic and Natural Sciences/in Naturals Sciences Course-Degree, Supervisor Prof. Michele Motta; Turin Apr 24th, 2009) of Pian Felina (Charvensod)/Coutateppaz (Saint Christophe)(reports 2009; connections 2010; action photos 1986/2009).
Christian Gianni Ilario CARDELLINA, mountaineer Pian Felina (Charvensod)/Grand Pollein (Pollein) (priv. inf. 1998 and 2004;action photos 1990/91 and 1996).
Dario Franco Sergio CARDELLINA, mountaineer Pian Felina (Charvensod)/Etolin (Quart), (priv. inf. from 1964; reports 1964/66; connections 1964/66; action photos 1964/66).
Alessandro "Lupetto" CASALEGNO, mountaineer and icefullsclimber Pian Felina (Charvensod) (inf. priv. 1980/86; action photos, pictures 1980/1986).
Maurizio CASTELLAN, mountaineer of Jovençan/Valpelline (action photos 1984).
Massimo CENTELLEGHE, mountaineer, tripper-hiker and Engineer, of Aosta (priv. inf. 1965/67 and action photos 1967).
Andrea CENTO, mountaineer and Engineer of Aosta (priv. inf. 2009 and 2010) .
Danilo CHATRIAN, mountaineer and Engineer of Aosta. At present Chairman-President of the boards of directors Stations a winter ski Resorts Pila. (priv. inf. Jan 04th, 2010; report Jan. 04th, 2010).
Alberto CHERAZ († August 16th, 2009, Tour Ronde-Mont Blanc),Valpelline mountain guide (priv. inf. Jun 08th, 2009; reports Jun 08th, 2009).
Nicola COLAJANNI, mountaineer of Bari, Supreme Court of Cassation Judge and Professor of University of Bari "Aldo Moro" (action photos 1997/2007).
Remo COME, mountaineer and sky runner of Charvensod d’en Haut (priv. inf. Dec 08th, 2009).
Marco COSSARD († January 16th, 2013, Aosta), mountaineer La Crete's (Villeneuve) (connections 1971/95; snaps, pictures and action photos 1971/1996).
Ezio DONZEL, mountaineer of Charvensod d'en Haut (priv. inf. and reports 1977/78).
Anselme FALCOZ († May 31th, 1999, Aosta), mountaineer Aosta and Engineer (priv. inf. 1977/78; reports 1977/78; connections and remarks 1977/78).
Camillo Roberto FERRONATO, mountaineer and minerals digger of Pian Felina (Charvensod) (priv. inf. 1972/2010; snaps, pictures and action photos 1972/1996. "Mountain Diary 1965/66" by brother Walter 1997).
Walter FERRONATO († February 24, 1997, Aosta), mountaineer Pian Felina (Charvensod) (priv. inf. 1965/66; reports 1965/66; connections 1965/66; action photos 1965/66).
Lino FORNELLI, mountaineer and Author-Writer mountain's guides books of Turin/Saint Pierre (priv. inf. 1998/2005; reports 1998/2005; connections 1998/2005).
Corrado FRAMARIN, of Quart/Valpelline, mountain guide of Valpelline (priv. inf. Jun 08th, 2009).
Giorgio FRUTTAZ, tripper-hiker of Aosta (action photos 1978).
Luigi GADIN, mountaineer and techn Teacher of Aosta/La Salle (priv. inf. 1976/2004; action photos 1976).
Maurice GAILLARD, Fénis, Valpelline's mountain guide (priv. inf., connections, reports and remarks Nov 15th and 27th, 2009).
Danilo GARZOTTO, mountaineer and tripper-hiker Pian Felina (Charvensod) (priv. inf. 1969/2010; pictures and action photos 1985/86 "Mountain Diary 1964/69)" by brother Ilario, in several times).
Ilario Antonio GARZOTTO († Sep 29th, 1969, Aiguille J. J. Croux-Mont Blanc), mountaineer (priv. inf. 1964/69; reports and connections 1964/69; "Mountain Diary 1964/69 (unpublished) " 1964/69; snaps, pictures and action photos 1964/1969).
Antonio GIANI, mountaineer and alpine photographer (priv. inf. 2004; basic's pictures of the work Jun/Dec 2009; graphic work Jun/Dec 2009; snaps photographs and action and photos since Dec 16th, 2004 until Mar 2010).
Corrado GONTIER, of Grand Brissogne/Saint Pierre, Valsavarenche's "Esprit de Montagne" mountain guide (priv. inf. and remarks Dec 22th and 31th, 2009).
Eusèbe IMPERIAL, mountaineer, Primary Schoolteacher President-Chairman of the Society Cooperative Haut Charvensod and ex Mayor of Commune Charvensod (priv. inf. 1984/86,;Dec 20th, 2009 and Jan 10th, 2010; reports 2009; connections 2009; action photos 1984. "Summit's Books 2003/2007" Vol. I° since July 20th, 2003 until July 30th, 2007; Vol. II° since Juny 28th, 2005 until Aug 09th, 2006.).
Gianni JUNOD († Sep 29th, 1969, Aiguille J. J. Croux-Mont Blanc), mountaineer (priv. inf: 1967/69; reports 1967/69; "Mountain Diarys 1964/69", Vol. I° and II°, 1964/69 (unpublished), pictures and action photos 1964/69).
Giuseppina JUNOD, tripper-hiker of Aosta (priv inf. various years and Dec 24th/31th, 2009. Jan 02th/03th/04th, 2010. Jan 03th, 2010 delivery of the "Mountain Diarys 1964/69", Vol. I° and II°, by brother Gianni, 1964/69 (unpublished). Property Junod Familiy. Priv. inf. Feb 20th, 2010).
Giuseppe LAMAZZI, mountaineer of Saint Chistophe-Capoluogo (priv, inf. 1971/2005; connections 1971/2005; action photos 1971/1996).
Fausto LORENZI, of Valpelline, mountain guide Valpelline, ski instructor and Himalayst (Mil. Expedition Everest 1973. Nat. Expedition of C.A.I. Lotshe 1975, Exp. Head Riccardo Cassin) (priv. inf. Jan 05/06th, 2010).
Carlo LUCIANAZ, mountaineer, mountaineer skiing; Headmaster of skiing, mountaineering and climbing Section Aosta C.A.I. of Charvensod d'en Haut (priv. inf. Oct 06th, 2009).
Franco LUCIANAZ, mountaineer, ski instructor and minerals digger of Valpettaz (Charvensod d'en Bas) (priv. inf. 1987, 1996 and 2009; connections 2009:action photos 1987 and 1996.
Ezio MARLIER, mountain guide and icefallsclimber Valpelline (priv. inf. Aug 2007; Nov and Dec 18th, 2009. Jan 06th, 2010; reports 2007 and 2009; action photos in CD Dec 19th,2009 of the Nov 2006).
Guido MATTEOTTI, mountaineer Aymavilles (priv. inf. 1977/78 and 2009; reports 1977/78.Oct. 09th and Nov 30th, 2009; "Mountain Diary until 1978" (unpublished), by Guido Matteotti 1978; actions photos 1971).
Luigi NEYROZ, mountaineer, tripper-hiker of Pian Felinaz/Saint Pierre (action photos 1965).
Toni ORTELLI, († 2000, Schio), Founder - Promoter and mountaineer of C.A.A.I., President Section Aosta of C.A.I. (since 1866, second in Italy) Founder - Promoter/Editor Chief of Magazine "Montagne Valdotaines" of Section C.A.I. Aosta since 1974 and Author famous mountains song "La Montanara" (reports 1977/78; connections 1977/78; Redition - Editing whole of Work "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, 1978).
Adolfo Giulio "Dulo" OURLAZ († August 17th, 2009, Aosta), mountain guide of Aosta (priv. inf. 1977/78; reports 1977/78; connections 1977/78).
Marinella OURLAZ, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Aosta/Châtillon (priv. inf. Dec 09th, 24th, 2009 and Feb 20th 2010; action photos dad's 2009 of the Fifties and Sixties).
Raffaella PELLIZZARI, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Aosta) (priv. inf. 2009; action photos 1980).
Sergio PESSION, mountaineer and hunter of Quart (priv. inf. 2004 and Dec 21th, 2009; reports 2004 and Dec 21th, 2009; action photos 2010 of the 1984).
Battista PIEILLER, mountaineer Fénis (priv. inf. 2004 and 2009; reports 2004,Dec 14th and 17th, 2009 and Jan 19th, 2010;action photos Jan 19th, 2010 of the July 1984 and August 2009).
Sandro PLAT, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Aosta (action photos 1980).
Renato QUENDOZ, mountaineer and skiing mountaineer (priv. inf. 1967/1978; reports 1969 and 1977/78; connections 1977/78; action photos 1967, 1968 and 1969).
Pietro "Piero" ROSSET, mountain guide Valpelline, ski instructor, hunter and gym Teacher of Aosta (priv. inf. and reports 1973, 1977/78 and 2006/07; reports 1977/78/2006/07. Dec 24th,2009 and Jan 16th, 2010; action photo 2007 of the 1946).
Elio SALUARD, mountaineer and hunter of Grand Brissogne (priv. inf. 2009; reports 2009; action photo 2010 of the 1982).
Ezio SAVIN, mountaineer of Cogne (priv. inf. 2009).
Alberto SCIARDI, mountaineer of Aosta (priv. inf. Sep 26th, 2003 and Jan 21/22th, 2010; reports Sep 26th, 2003 and Jan 21/22th, 2010; remarks and connections Jan 21/22th, 2010. "Mountain Diary until 1987",Vol. I° (unpublished). Action photos Jan 2010 of the 1980, 1983, 1984 and 1985).
Roberto STELLA, mountaineer, mountaineer skiing and Himalayst (Mil. Expedition Everest 1973); winning of Mezzalama Trophy, 1971, with brothers Aldo Stella and Gianfranco Stella; Mayor General Italian Alpine Troops-Military Training Center of Aosta); at present Chairman-President of the board of directors Stations a winter ski Resort La Thuile's (Aosta Valley). Priv. inf. and connections since Aug 05th, 2001 until Dec 24th and 31th, 2009; Jan 05/06th, 2010; connections 2001/2010. Action photos Aug 02th, 2001/Aug 24th, 2004.
Giuseppe "Pino" TREVISAN, mountaineer and Engineer of Aosta (priv. inf. 1969, 1970, 1972 and 1977/78; reports 1977/78; action photos 1968/69).
Gianfranco VICENTINI, mountaineer, tripper-hiker and Prof-Headmaster of Aosta (action photos 1997/2005).
Lady Vincenzina ZUCCA Capuzzo, housewife of Saint Christophe-Rouye Village (priv. inf. Aug 2005).
Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" ZULIAN († July 25th, 2012, Aosta), mountaineer and hunter Grand Brissogne-Luin and Grange (Saint Marcel) (priv. inf. 1977/78, Nov 25th and 30th, Dec 06th, 2009. Jan 01 and 15th, 2010; reports 1977/78, Nov 25th and 28th; Dec 06th, 16th and 20th, 2009. Jan 01 and 15th, 2010; connections 1977/78,2009, Jan 01 and 15th, 2010; Ménabreaz Hut Books 1955/2009 (unpublished); action photos 2010 of the1984).

Images

EMILIUS 33 ROUTES HISTORY Climbings Scrambles & ... North Wall 2006EMILIUS 33 ROUTES HISTORY Climbings Ascents & North Face with Black Triangle on May 2006EMILIUS 33 ROUTES Climbings Scrambles & Ascents & ... Black TriangleEMILIUS 33 HISTORY ... Arpisson\'s Walloon May 2010EMILIUS 33 ROUTES HISTORY BECCA East Wall Emilius\'s the wind  and Mount Père Laurent