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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.09270°N / 115.039°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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5.9 |
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Approach
This climb is located on the southwest ridge of Baron Spire, about halfway along ridge headed south between Baron Spire and El Pima.
Approach from Grandjean trailhead to Baron Lakes and about 1/2 mile before reaching switchbacks which go around Baron Falls, cross Baron Creek and scramble south for about 1 mile to high valley on West side of Baron Spire and below the North Face of Warbonnet Peak.
continue past lakes and climb boulder field to small cirque between El Pima and Warbonnet Peak.
Climb is obvious Face to pinnacle Summit.
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Route Description
Pitch #1-- Follow right angling 60deg offwidth crack with blocky sections to small overhanging roof. Flaring cracks allow you to climb left hand side of roof (1st crux 5.9) to 1st belay , full 60 m rope length to tree,(8" tree growing from side of cliff).
Pitch#2-- After a few initial 5-8-5.9ish moves, the climb eases to short 5.6 -5.7 blocky faces for remainder of pitch (another full 60m to belay).
Pitch#3-- Move up short 4th class section to base of large overhanging block (move belay to here to avoid KILLER rope drag).
Pitch#4-- Either climb 50' chimney/offwidth to chockstone or go over right face through some funky granite flutes and continue up arete until on top of chockstone(5.8+ --Both options were climbed and both meet at the same place, with equal objective hazards--about 30' runout to begin the pitch, pick your poison!!).
Pitch#5-- Continue straight up obvious hand/offwidth crack (5.9 continuous--LONG crux #2) for 50m to ledges below summit.
Pitch#6-- a couple of short 5.6 faces remain to the summit, which is about the size of a horse saddle--only 1 person fit at a time.
Descent: Scramble/rappel North side of ridge off a number of trees, blocks and bushes until you are back to lake.
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Essential Gear
60 meter rope, full rock rack (cams 0.5"-3", full set of nuts, set of tri-cams), 8-10 medium slings w/ biners, 4-5 locking biners, helmet , rock shoes.
This route can wander, so slings are more useful than quickdraws to help eliminate rope drag on some of the longer pitches.
Warm socks and a stocking hat!! (see trip report) :)
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Ascents
We are claiming a first ascent of the "Energizer Bunny" route--Sept 8-9, 2001--, but there was evidence of 1 other party climbing the spire,(VERY old piton and webbing just below summit) It looked like they climbed/ rappeled it from the North side of the spire.