OverviewThis nice high alpine traverse of .75 kilometers in length climbs up and over North Nesakwatch Spire, South Nesakwatch Spire, and Mount Rexford. This linkup of 3 granite spires in a day is a popular one and can be done in a long day or with a high bivouac. This route is mostly scrambling but features sections of climbing on each formation that varies from ok (North Spire) to very good (South Spire). This route is a good introduction to climbing in the area.
Getting ThereFrom the Nesakwatch Creek trailhead, follow the very steep climbers path up the hill for approximately 4 hours to reach the high alpine basin below the west face of the spire. The trail gains over a thousand meters in only 3 kilometers of travel and is relentless.
From the talus field, head east to a series bushes low down on the north ridge of the north spire to gain the ridgecrest. This is located about 1/10 the way up the ridge.
Climb the North Ridge route on the north spire then scramble down into the notch to the south. Climb up the North Ridge route on the south spire. From the summit, scramble down and slightly to the right. Look for a set of rap slings then rap 30 meters down to the southeast to easier terrain. Now scramble down into the notch below the North Face of Rexford.
From here scramble straight up towards a large chimney. Once at the base on it go around the corner to the left and up the gulley on 4th class terrain. Rope up at the base of the harder chimney above you.
Pitch #1 - Stem and jamb up the 5.7 chimney which is easier at first then gets steep and interesting near the end. Belay at the top. 100 feet
Pitch #2 - low 5th - Leap accross the gap then scramble up the low angle cracks to the base of the second chimney. 150 feet
Pitch #3 - 5.5 - Scramble up eaiser terrain to towards the base of the final headwall staying just left of a big boulder. Now finger traverse the slab above the boulder (fun) to reach the short handcrack accessing the ledge. Jamb this to reach the top.
To get to the true (east) summit of Rexford traverse the shattered ridgecrest on its rightside then climb the short 5.6 chimney then scramble to the top.
Descend the West Ridge route.
Essential Gear1 each cams to 3"
1/2 set of nuts
60 meter rope
Ice axe and crampons in early season