Evalin Route (Gross Furkahorn East Spur)
Summit altitude: mt. 3169
Difficulty: TD, F6a+
Equipment: bolts, last four pitches are few equipped
Climbing length: 250 mt.
First ascent: C. Muller – M. Fuchs – B. Wenger – J. v. Kanel 1994
Starting point: Furkapass mt. 2431 (parking)
Hut: Refuge Furka at Furkapass or Sidelen Hutte m. 2708
Gross Furkahorn shows in its East side an obvious spur of perfect granite leading to the ending section of ESE Ridge classic route. Evalin Route is a first-class Uri granite route not too steady, inside a spectacular environment.
From Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard northern exit, take the road to Furkapass, reaching the pass (mt. 2431). Parking. Furkapass is the entry towards the magic world of the Uri Alps, the most fascinating granite group of Switzerland.
Evalin Route report
Evalin Route report (French Scale)
Quick parties can climb the route directly from Furkapass parking; otherwise it’s possible spend the night at the comfortable Sidelenhutte m. 2708, open in summer.
From Furka Zentrum a good path heading North and rising steadily towards right leads to Sidelenhutte; at the second path’s forking before reaching the hut and after a footbridge over the stream, you must leave the path to Sidelenhutte and rise along some steep morenic slopes until a point at 2659 mt. From here enter Sidelen Glacier, rising towards left along steep slopes and heading to an obvious pillar situated in the right-hand side of the classic ESE ridge. Starting point below a little corner (1 and a half hour by walk from Furkapass).
The route is well equipped with bolts. The grades are in French Scale.
L1 - Climb the little corner. 5c+
L2 – Straightly along a technical and steep slab. 6a
L3 – Slantaways towards left with exciting climbing – one hard move – reaching a belay on the left. 6a+
L4 – L5 – L6 – L7 The classic route along ESE Ridge is reached rising straightly for other four pitches (5c+, 4c, 5c+, 5b) with very pleasant climb over excellent granite.
L8 – L9 An easy climb along ESE ridge (2c, 3c) leads at a good stance below final vertical point.
L10 – Straightly over the stance climb an athletic wall with good holds. 4c.
L11 – Last pitch along an edge is leading over Gross Furkahorn tiny summit. 4b. A superb view over the Uri Alps granite world and over Berner Oberland majestic peaks.
Descent: from the summit the first abseil leads to a wide saddle with some big granite blocks. From the saddle you must walk along a steep track towards South heading towards right to find a fixed point. With two subsequent abseils reach a good ledge. Follow the ledge towards left - facing out – and reach a very steep track leading to the bottom (2 hours and 15 minutes from the summit to Furkapass).
Essential GearRope 2 x 50, helmet, nuts 4-9, friends, ten express, axe and crampons may be helpful for approaching.
When to climbBest months to climb in Uri Alps are July, August and September.
HutSidelen Hut SAC m. 2708, open from middle june to middle october.
Guidebooks and maps
“Schweiz Plaisir Ost” by Jurg von Kanel – Edition Filidor
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