OverviewEvalin Route - Gross Furkahorn m. 3106
Gross Furkahorn is a threethousander situated North to the Furkapass and belonging to the wonderful world of the Uri Alps, the most fascinating granite group of Switzerland. This well known and frequently climbed peak shows in its Eastern side an obvious reddish spur of perfect granite, running on the right-hand side of the East-South-East Ridge classic route. On this spur is located the Evalin Route, a first-class Uri granite route not too steady, inside a spectacular environment.
Getting ThereRoad Access
The starting point to climb on Gross Furkahorn is the Furkapass m. 2431, the entrance to the magic world of the Uri Alps. The main town in this area is Andermatt, located at St. Gotthard Tunnel Northern exit. The Furkapass can be suitably approached:
- From the Wallis via Sion, Brig and Gletsch
- From Luzern via Altdorf and Andermatt
- From Bern via Interlaken , Meiringen, Grimselpass and Gletsch
- From Milan (Italy) via Chiasso, Lugano, Bellinzona and the St. Gottard Tunnel
- From Chamonix (France) via Martigny, Sion, Brig and Gletsch
Road Access from Andermatt
Take the road to Furkapass, reaching the pass (m. 2431). Parking. Furkapass is the entry towards the magic world of the Uri Alps.
From Furka Zentrum a well worn path heading North and rising steadily towards right leads towards the Sidelenhütte; at the second path’s forking before reaching the hut and after a footbridge over the stream, leave the path to Sidelenhütte and rise along some steep morenic slopes until a point at 2659 mt. From here enter the Sidelen Glacier, rising towards left along steep snow slopes and heading to an obvious reddish pillar located about one hundred meters to the right of the classic ESE ridge.
Evalin Route reportEvalin Route + ESE ridge exit
Summit altitude: mt. 3169
Difficulty: TD, F6a+
Equipment: bolts, last four pitches are few equipped
Climbing length: 250 mt.
First ascent: C. Muller – M. Fuchs – B. Wenger – J. v. Kanel 1994
Starting point: Furkapass mt. 2431 (parking)
Hut: Sidelen Hutte m. 2708
Fine and pleasant route on excellent granite, joining two different climbing ways: the first seven pitch are more difficult and well protected (bolts on the pitches and on the belays).
The exit on the ESE classic route is easier, but less protected.
Evalin Route + ESE ridge exit report (French Scale)
The route can be easily climbed up and down directly from the Furkapass parking; otherwise the choice is to spend the night to the Sidelenhutte m. 2708, open in summer,
From Furka Zentrum a well worn path heading North and rising steadily towards right leads to Sidelenhütte; at the second path’s forking before reaching the hut and after a footbridge over the stream, leave the path to the hut and rise along some steep morenic slopes as far as a point at 2659 m. From here enter the Sidelen Glacier, rising towards left along steep snow slopes and heading to an obvious reddish pillar located about one hundred meters to the right of the classic ESE ridge. Starting point near a little corner (from 1 and a half to 2 hours by walk from Furkapass, according to the amount of snow).
L1 - Starting point on a flake, then climb slanting left and up a little overhang and a corner. Traverse left to the belay. 5c, 35 m.
L2 – Straightly along a technical and steep slab. 6a, 35 m.
L3 – Crux pitch. Slantaways towards left up a beautiful slab with exciting climbing, then a corner, reaching a belay on the left. 6a+, 35 m.
L4 – From the belay head to left, climb a red wall, then some cracks and flakes. 5c+, 40 m.
L5 – On easier ground reach a corner, climb it and belay on a ledge under a wall. 4c, 50 m.
L6 – Directly up the steep wall above the belay, then climb some easier cracks and flakes. 5b, 25 m.
L7 - Climb the edge of the spur to the junction with the ESE classic route. 5b, 25 m.
L8 – L9 An easy climb along ESE ridge (2c, 3c) leads at a good stance below a steep wall.
L10 – Straightly over the stance climb an athletic wall with good holds. 4c.
L11 – Last pitch along an edge is leading over the tiny summit pinnacle of Gross Furkahorn. 4b. Enjoy the superb view over the Uri Alps granite world and over Berner Oberland majestic peaks.
Descent: from the summit the first abseil leads to a rocky saddle with some big granite blocks. From the saddle you must walk along a steep track towards South, then heading towards right to find the second anchors belay. With two subsequent abseils (25 + 45) reach a good ledge. Follow the ledge towards left - facing out – and reach a very steep track (possible presence of snow in early summer), leading to the bottom of the route (2 hours and 15 minutes from the summit to Furkapass).
Essential GearRope 2 x 50, helmet, nuts 4-9, friends, ten express, axe and crampons may be helpful for approaching.
Red TapeThere are not particular restrictons in climbing and hiking.
Where to staySidelen Hut SAC m. 2708, open from middle june to middle october.
Other accomodation in the Furka Pass area:
Hotel Tiefenbach m. 2110, along the road rising from Andermatt to Furkapass, in the Eastern side of the pass
When to climbBest months to climb in Uri Alps are July, August and September.
“Schweiz Plaisir Ost” by Jurg von Kanel – Edition Filidor, 1999