Contribute  Loading...
Geography Parents Loading... Routes
| Evalin Route   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Uri, Switzerland, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.58544°N / 8.40639°E Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing Season: Summer Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS) Difficulty: TD, UIAA VI Number of Pitches: 11
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: mazzani Created/Edited: Jul 7, 2011 / May 16, 2012 Object ID: 726986 Hits: 677 Loading... Page Score: 87.9% - 12 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview  Gross Furkahorn East Spur - Evalin Route
EVALIN ROUTE (GROSS FURKAHORN EAST SPUR)
Summit altitude: mt. 3169
Difficulty: TD, F6a+
Equipment: bolts, last four pitches are few equipped
Climbing length: 250 mt.
Exposure: E
First ascent: C. Muller – M. Fuchs – B. Wenger – J. v. Kanel 1994
Starting point: Furkapass mt. 2431 (parking)
Hut: Refuge Furka at Furkapass or Sidelen Hutte m. 2708
Gross Furkahorn shows in its East side an obvious spur of perfect granite leading to final section of ESE Ridge classic route. Evalin Route is a first-class Uran granite route not too steady, inside a spectacular environment. Getting There  From Gross Furkahorn view over Berner Oberland Alps and Rhone Gletscher - Photo Silvia Mazzani  Approach from Sidelenhutte
Route Description  Gross Furkahorn first abseil - Photo Silvia Mazzani  Evalin Third pitch - Photo Silvia Mazzani
EVALIN ROUTE REPORT (French Scale)
Quick parties can climb the route directly from Furkapass parking; otherwise it’s possible spend the night at comfortable Sidelenhutte m. 2708, open in summer.
From Furka Zentrum a good path direction North leads to Sidelenhutte, rising steadily towards right; at the second path’s forking, after a footbridge over the stream, you must leave the path for Sidelenhutte and rise along some steep morenic slopes until a point at 2659 mt. From here enter Sidelen Glacier, rising towards left along steep slopes and heading to an obvious pillar situated in the right-hand side of the classic ESE ridge. Starting point below a little corner (1 and a half hour from Furkapass). The route is well equipped with bolts. Grade in French Scale.
L1 - Climb the little corner. 5c+
L2 – Straightly along a technical and steep slab. 6a
L3 – Slantaways towards left with exciting climbing – one hard move – reaching a belay on the left. 6a+
L4 – L5 – L6 – L7 The classic route along ESE Ridge is reached rising straightly for other four pitches (5c+, 4c, 5c+, 5b) with very pleasant climb over excellent granite.
L8 – L9 An easy climb along ESE ridge (2c, 3c) leads at a good stance below final vertical point.
L10 – Straightly over the stance climb an athletic wall with good holds. 4c.
L11 – Last pitch along an edge is leading over Gross Furkahorn tiny summit. 4b. A superb view over Uri Alps granite world and over Berner Oberland majestic peaks.
Descent: from the summit first abseil leads to a wide saddle with some big granite blocks. From the saddle you must walk along a steep track towards South heading towards right to find a fixed point. With two subsequent abseils reach a good ledge. Follow the ledge towards left - facing out – and reach a very steep track leading to the footh (2 hours and 15 minutes from the top to Furkapass).
Essential GearRope 2 x 50, helmet, nuts 4-9, friends, ten express, axe and crampons may be helpful for approaching.When to climb Best months are July, August and September. MeteoMETEO CHHutSidelen Hut SAC m. 2708, open from middle june to middle october.
SIDELEN HÜTTEGuidebooks and maps
“Schweiz Plaisir Ost” by Jurg von Kanel – Edition Filidor Images
|
|
