Evalin Route

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Gross Furkahorn
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Evalin Route

Page Type:	Route
Lat/Lon:	46.58477°N / 8.40488°E
Route Type:	Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:	Summer
Time Required:	Most of a day
Difficulty:	TD, UIAA VI
Rock Difficulty:	5.10a (YDS)
Number of Pitches:	11
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Overview

Evalin Route - Gross Furkahorn m. 3106

Gross Furkahorn is a threethousander situated North to the Furkapass and belonging to the wonderful world of the Uri Alps, the most fascinating granite group of Switzerland. This well known and frequently climbed peak shows in its Eastern side an obvious reddish spur of perfect granite, running on the right-hand side of the East-South-East Ridge classic route. On this spur is located the Evalin Route, a first-class Uri granite route not too steady, inside a spectacular environment.

Beta of Evalin Route

Getting There

Road Access

The starting point to climb up Gross Furkahorn is the Furkapass m. 2431, the entrance to the magic world of the Uri Alps. The main town in this area is Andermatt, located at St. Gotthard Tunnel Northern exit. The Furkapass can be suitably approached:

- From the Wallis via Sion, Brig and Gletsch
- From Luzern via Altdorf and Andermatt
- From Bern via Interlaken , Meiringen, Grimselpass and Gletsch
- From Milan (Italy) via Chiasso, Lugano, Bellinzona and the St. Gottard Tunnel
- From Chamonix (France) via Martigny, Sion, Brig and Gletsch

Road Access from Andermatt

Take the road to Furkapass, reaching the pass (m. 2431). Parking. Furkapass is the entry towards the magic world of the Uri Alps. Walking Approach

From Furka Zentrum a well worn path heading North and rising steadily towards right leads towards the Sidelenhütte; at the second path’s forking before reaching the hut and after a footbridge over the stream, leave the path to Sidelenhütte and rise along some steep morenic slopes until a point at 2659 mt.

Greetings from Sidelenhutte — Gross Furkahorn seen from the lake near Sidelen Hut

The environment, Gross Furkahorn — Great place!

From here enter the Sidelen Glacier, rising towards left along steep snow slopes and heading to an obvious reddish pillar located about one hundred meters to the right of the classic ESE ridge.

Evalin Route report

Evalin Route + ESE ridge exit

Summit altitude: m 3169
Difficulty: TD, F6a+
Equipment: bolts, last four pitches are few equipped
Climbing length: 250 m
Exposure: E
First ascent: C. Muller – M. Fuchs – B. Wenger – J. v. Kanel 1994
Starting point: Furkapass mt. 2431 (parking)
Hut: Sidelen Hutte m. 2708

Fine and pleasant route on excellent granite, joining two different climbing ways: the first seven pitch are more difficult and well protected (bolts on the pitches and on the belays). The exit on the ESE classic route is easier, but less protected.

Evalin Route third pitch, Gross Furkahorn — Evalin Route third pitch

Starting the climb, Gross Furkahorn — Starting the climb

Evalin Route + ESE ridge exit report (French Scale)

The route can be easily climbed up and down directly from the Furkapass parking; otherwise the choice is to stay overnight at Sidelenhutte m. 2708, open in summer. From Furka Zentrum a well worn path heading North and rising steadily towards right leads to Sidelenhütte; at the second path’s forking before reaching the hut and after a footbridge over the stream, leave the path to the hut and rise along some steep morenic slopes as far as a point at 2659 m. From here enter the Sidelen Glacier, rising towards left along steep snow slopes and heading to an obvious reddish pillar located about one hundred meters to the right of the classic ESE ridge. Starting point near a little corner (from 1 and a half to 2 hours by walk from Furkapass, according to the amount of snow).

Evalin Route, Gross Furkahorn — The corner

Evalin, Gross Furkahorn — Superb slab on Evalin

L1 - Starting point on a flake, then climb slanting left and up a little overhang and a corner. Traverse left to the belay. 5c, 35 m.
L2 – Straightly along a technical and steep slab. 6a, 35 m
L3 – Crux pitch. Slantaways towards left up a beautiful slab with exciting climbing, then a corner, reaching a belay on the left. 6a+, 35 m.
L4 – From the belay head to left, climb a red wall, then some cracks and flakes. 5c+, 40 m.
L5 – On easier ground reach a corner, climb it and belay on a ledge under a wall. 4c, 50 m.

Belay along Evalin Route and Galenstock behind

L6 – Directly up the steep wall above the belay, then climb some easier cracks and flakes. 5b, 25 m.
L7 - Climb the edge of the spur to the junction with the ESE classic route. 5b, 25 m.
L8 – L9 An easy climb along ESE ridge (2c, 3c) leads at a good stance below a steep wall.
L10 – Straightly over the stance climb an athletic wall with good holds. 4c.
L11 – Last pitch along an edge is leading over the tiny summit pinnacle of Gross Furkahorn.
4b. Enjoy the superb view over the Uri Alps granite world and over Berner Oberland majestic peaks.

Descent: from the summit the first abseil leads to a rocky saddle with some big granite blocks. From the saddle you must walk along a steep track towards South, then heading towards right to find the second anchors belay. With two subsequent abseils (25 + 45) reach a good ledge. Follow the ledge towards left - facing out – and reach a very steep track (possible presence of snow in early summer), leading to the bottom of the route (2 hours and 15 minutes from the summit to Furkapass).