Welcome to SP!  -
Evalin Route
Route
Contribute 
 
Geography
Parents 
Routes
 

Evalin Route

  Featured as a Reworked Page
Evalin Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Uri, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.58540°N / 8.40639°E

Object Title: Evalin Route

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: TD, UIAA VI

Number of Pitches: 11

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Jul 7, 2011 / Mar 28, 2014

Object ID: 726986

Hits: 2553 

Page Score: 88.61%  - 27 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

Evalin Route - Gross Furkahorn m. 3106


Gross Furkahorn is a threethousander situated North to the Furkapass and belonging to the wonderful world of the Uri Alps, the most fascinating granite group of Switzerland. This well known and frequently climbed peak shows in its Eastern side an obvious reddish spur of perfect granite, running on the right-hand side of the East-South-East Ridge classic route. On this spur is located the Evalin Route, a first-class Uri granite route not too steady, inside a spectacular environment.







Beta of Evalin Route, Gross Furkahorn
Beta of Evalin Route

Getting There

Road Access

The starting point to climb on Gross Furkahorn is the Furkapass m. 2431, the entrance to the magic world of the Uri Alps. The main town in this area is Andermatt, located at St. Gotthard Tunnel Northern exit. The Furkapass can be suitably approached:

- From the Wallis via Sion, Brig and Gletsch
- From Luzern via Altdorf and Andermatt
- From Bern via Interlaken , Meiringen, Grimselpass and Gletsch
- From Milan (Italy) via Chiasso, Lugano, Bellinzona and the St. Gottard Tunnel
- From Chamonix (France) via Martigny, Sion, Brig and Gletsch

Road Access from Andermatt

Take the road to Furkapass, reaching the pass (m. 2431). Parking. Furkapass is the entry towards the magic world of the Uri Alps.

Sidelenhutte
The alpine lake near Sidelenhütte
Sidelengletscher
The Sidelengletscher


Walking Approach

From Furka Zentrum a well worn path heading North and rising steadily towards right leads towards the Sidelenhütte; at the second path’s forking before reaching the hut and after a footbridge over the stream, leave the path to Sidelenhütte and rise along some steep morenic slopes until a point at 2659 mt. From here enter the Sidelen Glacier, rising towards left along steep snow slopes and heading to an obvious reddish pillar located about one hundred meters to the right of the classic ESE ridge.

Greetings from Sidelenhutte
Gross Furkahorn seen from the lake close to the Sidelenhütte

Great environment
Great environment

Evalin Route report

Evalin Route + ESE ridge exit

Summit altitude: mt. 3169
Difficulty: TD, F6a+
Equipment: bolts, last four pitches are few equipped
Climbing length: 250 mt.
Exposure: E
First ascent: C. Muller – M. Fuchs – B. Wenger – J. v. Kanel 1994
Starting point: Furkapass mt. 2431 (parking)
Hut: Sidelen Hutte m. 2708


Fine and pleasant route on excellent granite, joining two different climbing ways: the first seven pitch are more difficult and well protected (bolts on the pitches and on the belays).
The exit on the ESE classic route is easier, but less protected.

Third pitch traverse
Third pitch traverse
Starting the climb
First pitch




Evalin Route + ESE ridge exit report (French Scale)

The route can be easily climbed up and down directly from the Furkapass parking; otherwise the choice is to spend the night to the Sidelenhutte m. 2708, open in summer,
From Furka Zentrum a well worn path heading North and rising steadily towards right leads to Sidelenhütte; at the second path’s forking before reaching the hut and after a footbridge over the stream, leave the path to the hut and rise along some steep morenic slopes as far as a point at 2659 m. From here enter the Sidelen Glacier, rising towards left along steep snow slopes and heading to an obvious reddish pillar located about one hundred meters to the right of the classic ESE ridge. Starting point near a little corner (from 1 and a half to 2 hours by walk from Furkapass, according to the amount of snow).

Orsaro summit Madonna
The corner
Last steps before the top
Wonderful slab




L1 - Starting point on a flake, then climb slanting left and up a little overhang and a corner. Traverse left to the belay. 5c, 35 m.
L2 – Straightly along a technical and steep slab. 6a, 35 m.
L3 – Crux pitch. Slantaways towards left up a beautiful slab with exciting climbing, then a corner, reaching a belay on the left. 6a+, 35 m.
L4 – From the belay head to left, climb a red wall, then some cracks and flakes. 5c+, 40 m.
L5 – On easier ground reach a corner, climb it and belay on a ledge under a wall. 4c, 50 m.
L6 – Directly up the steep wall above the belay, then climb some easier cracks and flakes. 5b, 25 m.
L7 - Climb the edge of the spur to the junction with the ESE classic route. 5b, 25 m.
L8 – L9 An easy climb along ESE ridge (2c, 3c) leads at a good stance below a steep wall.
L10 – Straightly over the stance climb an athletic wall with good holds. 4c.
L11 – Last pitch along an edge is leading over the tiny summit pinnacle of Gross Furkahorn. 4b. Enjoy the superb view over the Uri Alps granite world and over Berner Oberland majestic peaks.

Rapping from the tiny summit pinnacle
Rapping from the tiny summit pinnacle
Second abseil anchors
Second abseil anchors



Descent: from the summit the first abseil leads to a rocky saddle with some big granite blocks. From the saddle you must walk along a steep track towards South, then heading towards right to find the second anchors belay. With two subsequent abseils (25 + 45) reach a good ledge. Follow the ledge towards left - facing out – and reach a very steep track (possible presence of snow in early summer), leading to the bottom of the route (2 hours and 15 minutes from the summit to Furkapass).

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 50, helmet, nuts 4-9, friends, ten express, axe and crampons may be helpful for approaching.

Red Tape

There are not particular restrictons in climbing and hiking.


Gross Furkahorn seen from Gross Bielenhorn
Gross Furkahorn seen from Gross Bielenhorn
Gross Furkahorn, a rocky window over Berner Oberland
A rocky window to Berner Oberland near the summit

Where to stay

Sidelen Hut SAC m. 2708, open from middle june to middle october.

Sidelen Hütte

http://www.sidelen-huette.ch/


Other accomodation in the Furka Pass area:

Hotel Tiefenbach m. 2110, along the road rising from Andermatt to Furkapass, in the Eastern side of the pass

When to climb

Best months to climb in Uri Alps are July, August and September.

Maps

 
Gross Furkahorn map
 
 
Gross Furkahorn map
 





Meteo

METEOSWITZERLAND

Guidebooks

 
Guidebook Schweiz Plaisir Ost
 

“Schweiz Plaisir Ost” by Jurg von Kanel – Edition Filidor, 1999

Images