Falaises de Bourgogne - Burgundian cliffs

Overview

Burgundy region is more known for his wine than for the small summits you can find there

All of these Burgundy cliffs are limestone (calcaire) cliffs except Vieux Château granite cliff.

Géligny 500m 31 voies couenne calcaire 
Les Roches d'Orgères 282m 45 voies couenne, bloc calcaire 
Pas Saint Martin (Bligny-sur-Ouche) 400m couenne calcaire 
Montbard 250m 44 voies couenne calcaire 
Saffres - Tour Carrée 475m couenne calcaire 
Cormot - Kim500m 200 couenne calcaire
Cormot - J'Maupoil en Tête 500m couenne calcaire
Mâlain 300m 150 voies couenne granite 
Chambolle Musigny 320m 100 voies couenne calcaire 
Lantenay 314 voies couenne calcaire 
Vieux-Château / Rocher Sainte Catherine 300m 60 voies couenne granite 
Saffres 475m 370 voies couenne calcaire
Hauteroche 400m 247 voies couenne calcaire 
Fixin 450m 216 voies couenne calcaire
Cormot 500m 150 voies couenne calcaire
Bouilland 450m couenne calcaire 

Burgundy summits

Some of the modests summits of the country.

Saffres cliff

Height: 500m
Situation: 40 km west of Dijon,near Vitteaux (5 km)
Climbing infos: 450 routes, 30 Hm max, 2 to 8b

The Rochers de Miraude tower above the village of Saffres, 4 km south-east of Vitteaux and 35 km west of Dijon. Rock is a hard jurassic limestone, stratified but with hand hold more gripping than in Cormot. 320 routes, 25-35 m, 3c-7b.

It is a very famous site, often overcrowded in Spring; equipment is excellent in general. Easy and medium difficulty routes (4-5) are steep and athletic but correctly protected. After its re-equipment, Saffres has become again the paradise of the average climber. The climate is rainy ( pluie/neige : 1100 mm de précipitations en 120 jours par an) but the crag faces south and dryes quickly. The green lanscape is beautiful. Walls facing south in general, except the Tour Carrée which is climbed on all faces.

Access:
Leave D905 (was N5 in olden times) 4 km south-east of Vitteaux and turn east la D119 direction Saffres. To reach the crags, pass the village and leave the road ascending above Saffres to take a narrow track, frankly beyond the Tour Carrée (visible from the road).


routes overview:

West group

le Piano à queue 4+
le Dièdre à Leblanc 5
le Mètre pliant 5

high level:
l'arrachée 5+
la lupa 5+
le Flambeau 5+
Le Dièdre Sitiger 6a

Central and towers group

high level:
La Ouest (tour carrée) 5+
L'Armir 6b
La Gus (tour carrée) 6b

very high level:
La Quille 6c
le Boulevard à Mathieu 7a+

East group
Le Pigeon 5

high level:
le Fil à Plomb 6a+

very high level:
La Troyenne 6b+
le Rateau 6c
Top lisa 7a+


Link to Saffres grimporama page

Hauteroche cliff

Height: 500m
Situation: 40 km west of Dijon,near Venarey Les Laumes (10Km)
Climbing infos: 200 routes, 35 Hm max, 2 to 7b

Climbing in Hauteroche is not so old as in ther crags of Burgundy: Saffres, Cormot and a fortiori Le Saussois. This crag has been ``discorvered'' about 1975 by the climbers from a French ``Labour'' organization (the FSGT) who decided to achieve an equipment in contradiction to the elitist way of thinking which ruled rock climbing at that time, i.e. easy routes not protected, medium routes exposed ans only the most severe correctly protected.

The equipment of Hauteroche obviously resulted in sarcasms from the normal climbers of that time. However, mentalities evolved towards closer and closer protections, including in medium routes, so that the opposite excess usually occurs nowadays.

Thus, while Hauteroche was considered ``overprotected'' in 1980, its equipment which has remained as it (with unsafe anchors replaced) now looks committed, may ne even exposed.

Hauteroche crag is one kilometer long, 15 to 30 m high and faces SW. Rock is a jurassic limestone (bajocian) similar to Saffres, but not always so good. In addition, loose rock slopes lay above the climbing wall, which makes the helmet required, mainly for the belayer at the bottom.

There are 200 routes, 20-30 m, from 2c to 7a. Ratings are rather severe. Many medium routes (level 4 to 5b) but most of them are rather short.

Climate is rainy but crags dry quickly when sunshine comes back. Best seasons are spring and summer.

Access:
From Vitteaux take D26 east direction St-Seine-l'Abbaye for 9 km until Villy-en-Auxois, turn NNW on road D9 direction Les Laumes for 9 km, turn right (N) in the direction of Hauteroche. 500 m before (south of) Hauteroche turn sharply on the right (SSE) on a narrow road (posted maximum weight 10t) ascendint to the plateau; park at the top (camping). An orange marked footpath, slightly descending, leads (direction SSE) to the bottom of the crags (1 to 2 km).

Pouilly cliff

This wild cliff is a place where falcons are protected.

Darcey rock

Munois cliff

Author: FlyingBaron
Date: Dec 06, 2004 12:09 PM
Climbing infos: Not interesting place, completely wild cliff, not to be climbed, could be more than dangerous.

Vieux Château cliff

Height: 300m
Situation: 16 east of Avallon (Morvan Massif)
Climbing infos: 50 routes, 40m max, 3 to 7c

Located 16 km of Avallon, 1 north-western km of the village of Vieux Château (Old Castle), the Sainte-Catherine Rocks are granite rocks dominating in north the valley of the Serein. The granite is excellent, very adherent except when rainy weather because of the lichen. 80 ways, 30-40 m, 3b-7c. Vieux Château is a cliff of limited extent, but is beautyfull. Very varied climbing, much of air and fine, dihedral flagstones and overhangs. Irreproachable equipment of design. One would be wrong to miss this small solid mass between Saussois and Hauteroche.

Access:
Leave N6 10 km south-east of Avallon in the bypass of Cussy-les-Forges, take ENE road D954 direction Epoisses for 9 km. At the exit of Toutry turn south in direction Vieux-Château ; at northern entrance of Vieux-Château (crags are visible) turn right at sharp angle (W) on a small road for 0,5 km, then take left a dirt trail and parking at crag summit.

Link to Vieux Château grimporama page

Baume la Roche cliff

Height: 570m
Situation: 40 km west of Dijon,near Mâlain
Climbing infos: no prepared routes,30m max, 5 to 7

Fixey cliff (Combe Laveau) and Fixin

Height: 420m
Situation: 9 km south of Dijon, near Gevrey Chambertin
Climbing infos:

Half a dozen limestone crags south of Dijon, between Dijon and Nuits-Saint-Georges, above the most famous vineyards of Burgundy.

The main climbing area is the couple Fixin-Brochon, two ``cwms'' facing east (most routes facing south, a few dozens facing north in Brochon). Fixin offers approximately 125 routes, 20-35 m, 5a-7a, with good equipment but often polished. Brochon proposes 110 routes facing south, 10-15 m, 2c-6b, especially fit for beginners and medium skill climbers, and also 50 longer routes facing north, 15-35 m, 3c-7a.

Although in distinct glens, Fixin and Brochon are not far from each other and the climber can swap between them, with an half-hour walk.


Château fort group

La Fissure 4+

high level:
la Jacqueline 6a
la Voie de son maitre 6b

very high level:
Combinaison Beaujolais et Nicolaievsky 6c
le Peli Plouc 6c+

grande paroi group

La Tangentoïde 4
la Morin 5

high level:
les Colonnes 5+
la Voie du Coeur 6a+
le Kaleïdoscope 6b

very high level:
le Cerf Volant 6c
le Cancer 6c+/7a

Chambolles-Musigny cliffs

Some equiped routes...

Lantenay cliff - Combe Arveaux

Height: 420m
Situation: 14 km west of Dijon

Climbing infos: 314 routes from 5+ to 8c, 30m maximum

Bouilland cliff

Height: 500m
Situation: 17 km north-west of Beaune
Climbing infos: 3 cliffs, 330 routes from 5+ to 8c
No climbing in winter and spring on most of the routes for bird protection.

Gevrey Chambertin cliff (Combe Lavaux)

Height: 400m
Situation: 12 km south of Dijon
Climbing infos: 25 routes, 30m max, 2 to 7b

Le Saussois cliff

Height: 500m
Situation: Near Auxerre
Yonne valley, 30km south direction from Auxerre or 25Km NW of Avallon or 20 Km NE of Clamecy

Climbing infos:

The Saussois is not an ordinary climbing site: indeed it is an internationally famous climbing crag, but it is also a museum reflecting at least fifty years of rock climbing around Paris.

The Saussois had been ``discovered'' -- especially by Maurice Martin -- before World War II (one can even find holes used to hold wooden beams probably dating from the Middle Ages). The site began to be systematically visited during the war, at the time when France was divided into an occupied zone and the so called free zone and when northern French alpinists were not allowed to satisfy their vice in the ``Killer Alps'' located on the other side of the demarcation line.

The Saussois is therefore a representative museum of more than a half century of rock climbing. It has been the favourite play- (and training-) ground of many famous climbers and alpinists each of whom have left there their stamp: in particular the team who first climbed the south face of the Aconcagua (Robert Paragot, Lucien Bérardini, Pierre Lesueur) or those who made the first climb of the Dru west face (Guido Magnone, Adrien Dagory, Marcel Lainé) and others such as René Desmaison, Marcel Schatz, Jean Couzy, Lionel Terray, Michel Dufranc, Émile Troskiar, Maurice Gicquel, etc. Out of respect for these ``founding fathers'' of the massif, it has been decided to keep the original commitment -- even the ``exposition'' -- of many of the classical routes, and that the update of the equipment would merely consist in replacing the old unsafe pags with modern strong cemented rings, perfectly solid but without increasing the number of the protection points.

However, since the rare routes of ``moderate'' difficulty have become more and more ``slippery'', their equipment has been somewhat increased during the eighties. Thus, routes of difficulty 3c to 5b -- which had become more exposed than the ``hard'' routes often over-pegged for artificial climb purposes -- are now feasible for average climbers.

Le Saussois is at 205 km southeast from Paris, 27 km SSE from Auxerre, on the right bank of the Yonne, between Châtel-Censoir and Mailly-le-Château. Leave A6 at Auxerre-sud, take N6 direction Avallon for 15 km, take D100 until Mailly-la-Ville, then follow sign posts ``Le Saussois''.

routes overview:

la rech 5
la locomotive 5+


high level:
l'I 5+
la Tricou droite 5+
La Je 6a
La Pogne 6a
Super-Loco 6a
le Penchant fatal 6a+
Diagonale 6b
Super-Jardin 6b

very high level:
Lupissima 6c
toufou 6c
Francinou 6c
La Troyenne 6c
La Sans nom 7a
Dudule 7a
Crayons de Couleur 7a+
Super-echelle 7a
L'Ange 7b
La Toto 7b
La maestria 7b
Le Président 7b+/7c
Chimpanzodrome 7c+

Uncey le franc cliff

Height: 500m
Situation: 40 km west of Dijon
Climbing infos: completely wild cliff, not to be climbed

Le Parc

Situation: Yonne valley, 2km north direction from le Saussois
cliff height = 20m-35m

routes overview:

La Dame de Mailly 4
La PJ 4
La tutu 4+
Les 3 Loufoques 4+
La Bouchère 5
La Tume 5+

high level:
le Gallop 5+
la Yanou 6a
Alea jacta est 6a+
Sodome et encore 6a+
la Pervenche 6b

very high level:
Les Valeurs Misogynes 6c
Coan 6c+
La Menace des Vikings 7a
Joe's garage 7b

Surgy cliff

level: 3 to 8C

Locate 30 km SSW of Auxerre and 15 km SW of Le Saussois, on the left bank of the river Yonne, Surgy crags are not so great as Le Saussois, but less polished and with safer less committed equipment. Mainly facing East, it proposes not less than 350 routes of height 15 to 35 m, 4c-8a, often athletic. As in Le Saussois, rock is a jurassic limestone with a lot of small holes.

Access:
Road D144 from Clamecy to Surgy is nearly at the bottom of the crag, named Roches de Basseville. Do not park on this road, but at the southern end of the crags.

Access: The cliffs are in edge of D144 between Clamecy and Surgy. From Nevers: by D977 until Clamecy. From Paris: by A6 to Auxerre then Coulanges/Tonne by D151 and finally Surgy (D39 then D233).From Dijon: by Avallon (A6 or N6), Vézelay (D957) and Clamecy (D951)

routes overview:

La Tourelle 5
L'Y 5
La Richelieu 5/5+
La Paulo 5/5+


high level:
Le Triolet 5+
La Casquette 5+
Le Grand Dièdre 6a
Les trois Glands 6a
la Fissure 6a+
Les Jeux interdits 6b
Saint Esprit/Feu Follet 6b

very high level:
Les noctambules 6c
Le Super Donjon 6c+
Les Gondoles de l'Illusion 7a
La Thermor 7a
Le Feu Follet 7b


Link to Surgy grimporama page

Cormot cliff

Height: 400m
Situation: 12 km south of Beaune
Climbing infos: 150 routes, 50m max, 4b to 7c

Not so well known as Saffres, located 15 km SW of Beaune and 4 km NNE of Nolay, Cormot's crag is the highest and most grandiose of the crags in Burgundy ; the equipment is excellent except rare exceptions. In the sixties, Cormot was considered as a severe crag but the difficulty level of classical crags increased in such a way that Cormot has become an ideal crag for climbers of level 5a-5c. 150 routes exist (25-40 m, 4b-7c) among which several great and beautiful routes of grade 4a-5a and an exceptional amount of marvelous routes rating de 5a-5c with good protection.

Rock is a bajocian jurassic limestone with much stratification. It is generally good but, opposite to the Saussois and the southern limestones, it does not exhibit gripping holds for the hands, only flat holds and vertical cracks: not a problem for skilled climbers but seriously troublesome for modern climbers whose technique consists in strong biceps and fingers. Of course there are slabs, but also many corners where you have to push on your hands and not draw, impressive chimneys and roofs to be climbed around.

Among remarkable routes, more impressive than difficult, let us mention: the Grande Cheminée (4, impressive), the Extérieure de la Grande Cheminée (5a, corner, chiminey, impressive slab to finish), L'Opposition (5a, 40 m, the anthology of corner climbing) , the Kim (5b, 35 m, technical slab), the le Dièdre Laurent (5c, 35 m), L'Androsace (seen from the bottom, it looks 7a because of roofs, but it is only an impressive 5c between the ceilings), Le Facteur (6a+, continuity), Le Toit (6b+, in vact a corner suspended below a ceiling), Le Petit Zig (7a, 35 m slightly beyond verticality).

Climat is less wet than in hte neighbouring Morvan hills and, due to south facing, the crag dries quickly.

Access:
Autoroute A6 exit ``Beaune'', then road D973 until Nolay. Inside Nolay take D111f direction Cormot, Vauchignon or ``Cirque-du-Bout-du-Monde'' (north); pass Vauchignon and turn right (NE) direction Bel-Air; just before reaching the plateau when woods vanish, turn right (S) on a dirt road for 400 m and park at the end; do not walk straight on but take a footpath on the right (W) leading after 500 m to the top of the crag.

routes overview:

L'opposition 4+
L'Arbre 5-


high level:
Le Dièdre à Laurent 5/5+
Le Sans Nom 5/5+
L'Androsace 5+
la Kim directe 5+
la Batier 6a+
Lauco et panique 6a+

very high level:
Le petit Zig 7a


Link to Cormot grimporama page

Red Tape

Some of these cliffs are protected as natural sites.
They are some temporary interdictions.
Avoid birds nesting period.

When To Climb

august to december. Avoid birds nesting period (February to end of June)

Camping

-

Topos and more info

link http://ffmebourgogne.free.fr
Topos : some of them are available at:

CD 21
6a Avenue de l'Ouche
21000 Dijon France

or at:
CAF Côte d'Or
5, Rue Caporal Broissant
21000 Dijon France


Book:

ESCALADE de JC Droyer (DENOEL) ISBN 2-207-23314-6

Burgundian wild flowers

External Links

• More on Saffres cliff (french and picts)
  
  
• More on Vieux Chateau cliff (frenc and picts)
  
  
• More on Saffre cliff [1] (french and picts)
  
  
• More about Le Saussois cliff
  
  

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Images

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