fluide glacial : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

fluide glacial

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Geography

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Page Type: Route

Location: Hautes Pyrenees, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 42.68520°N / 0.0083°W

Route Type: ice climbing

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: IV WI 4+ (300mts)

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Page By: gariuei

Created/Edited: Feb 15, 2005 / Feb 15, 2005

Object ID: 163986

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Page Score: 86.43% - 3 Votes

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Table of Contents

Approach

From Gavarnie village take the route to the cirque. First cross the river to the left side and continue walking to the Hotelerie (1h). From here cross the river to the right and reach the base of the icefalls (+30'). Total 1h30'

Route Description

Fluide Glacial is a 300 mts icefall situated in the middle of the "Mur de cirque". There are three floors on this Cirque. First floor's icefalls are about 200-300mts long.
When we reach the base of "Fluido" we are going to start climbing by the right side. First pitch finishes under the column (90º) on the right part. (R. One spit and a "v" ). The second pitch can be superated by the column if is in good conditions (90º, 5) or going to the left under the column 75º to reach second R (parabolts). Third pitch, the easiest, to reach a snow camp. 4º and 5º pitches are continuos 75º- 80º and then we arrive to the snow platform ("la vira"). We are only two pitches long to reach the top!... 6º pitch 50 mts of good ice (75º-80º) and R on the right with parabolts. The last pitch is shorter, about 30 mts (75º) and parabolts on the right too. Descend: Rappeling the route 6 rappels.