Trip Title: Forbidden peak
Author lee coutermarsh
Date July 19, 2003
GuideBook nelson #1
Owned By climbing
Mountain Elevation Summitted
Climbed this awesome rte on Saturday with Alpinetom. Drove up Friday night arriving at the trailhead by midnight to get an early start by 6ish which we figured to be plenty of time. Real good beta here, DON'T bivvy here as climbing party's are getting up by 2 a.m. and on. We finally gave up on getting any sleep and by 5:45 were on our way with about 2-3 hrs sleep for us
This was the first time for me to be in Boston basin and amazed at the many different zones you go through on this trip. A green zone at the bottom,timber zone, then opens up to the basin and amazing green meadows with wildflowers everywhere, then onto the glacier zone, a short steep snow couloir and onto the granite zone to the summit.
A very fun climb, we soloed the entire rte up and down except the 2 pitch's in the middle that we put a couple pieces in going up, and rapped these 2 pitches coming down. I think 2 light 30M ropes would be perfect for this rte.
Downclimbing the couloir was the best option and great for frontpointing. We noticed going down that the couloir during the day had actually split into 2 parts now and will be quite interesting in a week or so. Got sidetracked in the avvie debris and was so frustrating and good to see our park fee's that we pay at good work here!
This rte rocks and of course now scoped out a bunch more climbs in the area to do.