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Friedberger Klettersteig

 
Friedberger Klettersteig

Page Type: Route

Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.50355°N / 10.60236°E

Object Title: Friedberger Klettersteig

Route Type: Via Ferrata

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Grade B / C

Route Quality: 
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Page By: selinunte01

Created/Edited: Oct 27, 2012 / Oct 27, 2012

Object ID: 822335

Hits: 850 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

 
Friedberger Klettersteig
Rote Flüh and route


Friedberger Klettersteig is part of the traverse of two summits within Tannheimer Alpen, the easternmost part of Allgäu Alps: Rote Flüh and Schartschrofen.

The part Gelbe Scharte - the lowest col between Rote Flüh and Schartschrofen – and Rote Flüh is a mountain trail with some rock scramble, partly secured with fixed iron ropes and with a nice 20 m high, near perpendicular rock face, where iron cramps help you up or down. The trail runs on the north or south side of the ridge and on the ridge crest too, so that you can have multiple views and impressions of this beautiful area. This part is called sometimes “Friedensweg”.

The part from Gelbe Scharte up to near Schartschrofen is a short but steep and enjoyable Via Ferrata, not very difficult but airy and exposed.

Both summits, Rote Flüh and Schartschrofen, have normal hiking trails, too, so don´t expect to be alone. On fine summer and autumn days, many many people can be seen on top of Rote Flüh and Schartschrofen. The easy accessibility from Tannheim valley or from the mountain station of Füssener Jöchl cable car makes both summits a prime target for whole families.

In September 2012 I did the Tannheim triple jump: Gimpel (normal route), Rote Flüh and Friedberger Klettersteig to Schartschrofen. I was alone on Gimpel summit (!), had about 60 people on Rote Flüh (there is thank God enough space to even have some privacy) and met only four guys on Friedberger Weg. I was completely happy with the hike and only can recommend Friedberger Weg to those who love Via Ferratas and traverses.



Getting There

Best trailhead is Nesselwängle in the Tannheim valley or Musau in the Reutte region. The route from Musau is about 2 hours longer than the route from Nesselwängle.

Other trailheads in the Tannheimer valley are Haller, Haldensee and Grän. All trailheads have hiker parking areas with fees.

Friedberger Klettersteig
Rote Flüh as seen from Nesselwängle
Friedberger Klettersteig
Rote Flüh and Gimpel
Friedberger Klettersteig
View on Köllenspitze and Tannheimer Hütte



  • You reach Musau on road number 179 coming from Füssen / Germany or Reutte / Innsbruck, Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Lechtal / Arlberg region. Leave the road at exit “Reutte Nord” and turn on road L69 to Musau.
    At Bärenfalle Inn (signpost) there is a hiker parking area behind the parking area of the inn! Just follow the dirt road some 300 m into the woods to the road barrier.
    At Musau look for the railway station and park your car where it is possible.

  • You reach Nesselwängle from Reutte or Arlberg region on road number 198. Turn on road number 199 at Weißenbach and pass by Gaichtpass. Follow the bypass road around Nesselwängle until you reach the Gimpelhaus parking area northwest of Nesselwängle (day and multiple day fees). There are no public parking possibilities in the village of Nesselwängle!
    If you follow road 199 you reach Haller, Haldensee and, by taking road number L261 at Haldensee, Grän.

  • You reach Nesselwängle from Germany / Allgäu region by using highway A 7 to exit Oy and road number 399 to Pfronten. Take Achtalstraße and – after the border – L261 to Grän and Haldensee. At Haldensee take road number 199 to Haller and Nesselwängle / Gimpelhaus parking area.





  • Route Description

     
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Route Overview





    The Rote Flüh page shows you how to reach this summit as a starting point.

    Alternatively have a look on the Schartschrofen page if you want to start there.

    I recommend to start at Rote Flüh: ascending the Friedberger Klettersteig is more enjoyable than descending it.







    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Ascent to Rote Flüh
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Overlook of Friedberger Klettersteig
    Friedberger Klettersteig
     


    From Rote Flüh summit follow the signposts and the trail in northwestern direction. The trail zigzags steeply down over some rocks which need a bit of scrambling and partly are secured with an iron rope. A first rock tower on the ridge is bypassed on its left side and the trail ends at a rock face which leeds down into a huge crack or gully. Some small iron cramps are leading down, the lower part being perpendicular. This is the most airy and exposed part of the route between Rote Flüh and Gelbe Scharte. After that the trail leads back onto the ridge.

    Friedberger Klettersteig
    First part, Rote Flüh summit
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    First part crux
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Ridge of first part and Schartschrofen


    Stay on the ridge for a while, the route again is partly secured with iron ropes and leads down on the right side of the ridge until a level part of the trail reaches the second huge rock tower of the ridge. Again the trail bypasses this tower on its left side, still descending with a bit of rock scrambling. Where the trail leads back to the ridge crest there is a last short descent to Gelbe Scharte.

    At Gelbe Scharte you can bail out, descending to the east side into the uppermost Raintal below the east face of Schartschrofen. At a trail junction below Schartschrofen take the left hand trail which ascends to Hallergehrenscharte, the col between Schartschrofen and Tagweidspitze. From there Schartschrofen summit can be reached on the summit hiking trail.

    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Ridge tower
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Via ferrata part
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Via ferrata part - first chute


    At Gelbe Scharte the Friedberger Klettersteig starts with a near perpendicular rock nose which has to be climbed directly – a sort of test wether you can master the following terrain. Friedberger Klettersteig is completely secured with good iron ropes and has no other securing equipment. The rock is firm with many grips and holds and the only thing you have to do is to climb, to enjoy and to secure yourself with your via ferrata kit and a helmet.

    After the first test and a short steep section the route traverses to the left into a steep but easy chute. Pay attention for some loose scree. At the upper end of the chute the route traverses again to the left. You then have to overcome some steep rock faces to another left hand traverse and another steep section leding to the – to my opinion – most difficult part of the route (B / C): a short, about 4 m high overhang which needs some acrobatic moves. Another right hand traverse leads up to a steep arete which has to be climbed directly (airy!) up to a small notch (still very airy). Climb over that small notch, traverse to the left and you arrive at the steep summit chute which leads you up to the summit.

    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Via ferrata part
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Via ferrata part
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Via ferrata part - summit chute


    A very nice but ways too short Via Ferrata – unfortunately Schartschrofen is only 180 m higher than Gelbe Scharte.

    Allow 1 to 1,5 hours from Rote Flüh to Schartschrofen.



    Gear & Mountain Condition

     
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Gimpel as seen from Rote Flüh


    Friedberger Klettersteig is a late spring, summer and autumn route.

    You need good shoes and hiking gear.

    Via Ferrata gear and a helmet are recommended.


    Current Weather:



    Maps & Guide Books

     
    Friedberger Klettersteig
    Köllenspitze as seen from Rote Flüh ascent


    Maps


  • Alpenvereinskarte Bayerische Alpen, scale 1 : 25.000, map number BY 5: Tannheimer Berge, Köllenspitze, Gaishorn, 1st edition, 2012, Deutscher Alpenverein

  • Bayerische Topographische Karte, scale 1 : 50.000, map number UK50-48, Füssen und Umgebung, Landesamt für Vermessung und Geoinformation Bayern, 2012




  • Guide Books / Internet


  • Alpenvereinsführer: Allgäuer Alpen und Ammergauer Alpen, alpin, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2008

  • Via ferrata Guide Books like:
  • Eugen E. Hüsler: Klettersteige 1: Alle Klettersteige der Nordalpen; Bruckmann Verlag 2012


  • Internet, e.g.:
    http://www.via-ferrata.de/img-friedberger-klettersteig-352.htm

    Images