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From Lucni Sedlo

 
From Lucni Sedlo

Page Type: Route

Location: Slovakia, Europe

Object Title: From Lucni Sedlo

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Scrambling and easy rock climbing

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: jck

Created/Edited: Jan 13, 2009 / Jan 13, 2009

Object ID: 479780

Hits: 1227 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Overview

Koncista is a prominient peak that culuminates in two summits of almost equal height. Its long massif dominates above three valleys: Batizovska, Zlomiskova and Stolska.
East face is 450 meters high, quite difficult with several climbing routes. Western slopes are much gentlier: huge scree slopes with characteristic formation: big but shallow couloir.
Two main rigdes:
  • S: another normal route follows that one

  • N: wild and difficult, culuminates in Mala Konczysta /Small Konczysta- 2463 m/, many climbing routes.

Konczysta from the Tupa
The route

The route via Lucni Sedlo may be divided into three parts:
  • reaching Lucni Sedlo by the ridge of Tupa

  • reaching Lucni Sedlo by Stolska Dolina

  • from the pass to the top

The Ridge of Tupa

Accoring to the fact that Koncista could be climbed in one day the best starting point is Strbske pleso. There’s a big parking, several hotels, shops, restaurants ans so on.
From there take a red marked trail that leads to Popradske Pleso. After half an hour: continiue on the red one if no snow, change on green when snow encountered. After 1,5 h you’re in Popradske Pleso. Popradske Pleso is reachable also by a road from ‘Popradske Pleso’ train stop /1 h 15 minutes/.
Above the lake, on the east side big massif of Osterva rises. The path that leads to Sedlo pod Ostrvou uses a big couloir /dangerous in winter, avalanche prone: 35 degress, 400 meters/. Countless zig- zags allows you to reach the wide pass /3 minutes to the summit of Osterva/.
From the pass take an unmarked path that leads into the north direction. At the beginning the ridge is wide. After reaching the first bump on the ridge follow it to the right. You may stick to the ridge /easier but more exposed- good for summer/ or take a right side /a little bit more complicated routefinding but safer/. Pass Tupa’s foresummit /the point where short ridge of Klin begins/, turn left and reach the rocky main summit of Tupa /small metal pole/. From here you have great views at all the Koncista massif with the route to the top clearly visible.
Tupa Ridge
The Ridge of Tupa- diagram

Leave the summit folowing the ridge into north direction and then simply go down by loose rocks trying to reach the bottom of the valley at the same height that the big couloir on Koncicista ends. At the bottom of the valley traverse below the wide saddle of Lucni sedlo. Now you are at the bottom of west slope of Koncista. 1 hour from Sedlo pod Ostrvou.

Stolska dolina

To enter Stolska dolina you have to reach Tatranska Magistrala first. Tatranska Magistrala is a red marked trail that leads at about 1500-1900 meters and connects all the valleys.
First option is to follow the route described in ‘The ridge of Tupa’ section untill Sedlo pod Ostvou and then continue about 30 minutes further on red trail.
Second option is to reach Batizovske Pleso:
  • from Vysne Hagy: yellow marks, 750 m HD, 2h up, 1.5 h down

  • from Tatranska Polianka: green, yellow and red marks, 875 m HD, 2h 45m up, 2h down

  • from Sliezsky Dom: red marks, 200 m HD, 1h up, 45 m down

From Batizovske Pleso follows Magistrala into Popradske Pleso direction: 30 minutes.
Here you leave the marked path. At first go by the middle of the valley, several old tracks may be misleading. When it becomes steeper you have two variants to choose:
  • right side of the valley: shorter but requires scrabmling and a little rock- climbing /0+/ leads directly to bottom of the couloir

  • left side: go around tha small threshold, connects with the route from Tupa and traverse right to the base of west slope of Koncista.

45 minutes- 1 hour from the marked path.
Stolska dolina
The Stolska Valley- diagram

From the pass to the top

The title of this section is not precise because you don’t start at the pass but about 50 meters below it. Lucni sedlo is very wide, and the slopes from Stolska valley are really gentle.
From the bottom of the couloir: do not enter the couloir but choose the slope to left /north/. Cairns lead you through endless scree slopes. Zig- zags are sometimes longer, sometimes shorter, you may also shorten them by using some steeper, more direct but little more difficult variants /be careful: loose rocks!/. When the slope becomes narrower /upper third part/ enter the couloir and follow it nearly the top of Koncista. The last sections requires some scrambling but on good, solid rock.
The upper part of the couloir
The upper part of the couloir

Climb straight up to reach the little higher south summit or traverse left to the north summit. South summit has a extraodrinary summit block called Kowadlo/ Nakova. It’s a few easy moves /II-III/ but in great exposition. There is a piton at the edge that allows you to climb it safely. North summit is climbable without difficulties.

Essential gear

 
Kowadlo on The...
Kowadlo- Nakova

In summer:
Normal hiking gear. For Kowadlo: a piece of rope and a quickdraw/ carabinier. No pro is needed.

In winter:
Ice axe and crampons are sufficient.

Additional info

For problems like 'getting there', 'accomodation', 'red tape' and 'mountain conditions’ have a look at main page of Koncista.
Take into consideartion that according to TANAP rules you can only use this route with a TANAP guide or as a descending route after climbing harder /min. grade III/ one. Good description of the whole problem is on Tomas Kristofory's page about Furkotsky stit.

Images

Martin\'s RouteKowadlo on The...Konczysta from the TupaTupa, Koncista and Gerlach from meadows near villageKonczysta from the upper part...Climbing the KowadloKonczysta from Gerlach
The upper part of the couloirStolska dolinaTupa Ridge