"So I was sitting in my cubicle today, and I realized, ever since I started working, every single day of my life has been worse than the day before it. So that means that every single day that you see me, that's on the worst day of my life."
--Peter Gibbons (Office Space)
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Corax - Aug 31, 2005 5:49 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote!
Jerry L - Aug 30, 2005 6:49 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentVery interesting read. Thanks for posting.
Corax - Aug 31, 2005 5:50 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote and the nice words!
Lupino - Aug 30, 2005 7:48 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentFull of absolutely useful information. Great work and very imressive mountain.
Corax - Aug 31, 2005 5:50 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote and the nice words!
Dean - Aug 30, 2005 7:54 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentExcellent work.
Corax - Aug 31, 2005 5:50 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote!
Corax - Aug 31, 2005 5:51 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the nice words and the vote! I agree, it's one of the most impressive peaks on this planet!
jck - Aug 30, 2005 4:58 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentAnoter great job.
Maybe it's worth mentioning that Voytek(correctly in Polish: Wojciech) and Schauer climbed all the wall but manage "only" to pass the summit ridge without reaching the highest point.
Regards
jacek
Corax - Aug 31, 2005 5:57 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote and feedback. It's always appreciated.
Great to know some more details about the this ascent. I wasn't sure about it, as I only heard about it from a Polish climbing friend. He told me they were very close to the summit.
Do you have any facts about the first attempt they (Schauer and Kurtyka) did? I only know they were stopped earlier that time.
Kukuczka also planned to give it a try with a friend (who?), but they never did as far as I remember.
jck - Aug 31, 2005 8:56 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentAs far as I know: in 1984 Kurtyka and Kukuczka did their traverse of three summits on Broad Peak. It was their second time on the top(they made an "acclimatization" ascent in 1982 without the permission via normal route).So they wanted to make a new route on Broad Peak(because as you problably know Kukuczka wanted all his ascents to be made via new route or during winter season)-but Broad Peak wasn't their main goal on that expedition. The wanted to climb the "Shiny Face" on Gasherbrum IV. While they were approaching to the bottom of the wall something broke between them.Kukuczka claimed that Kurtyka didn't want to climb from undisclosed reasons(maybe poor weather).On the other hand Kurtyka claimed that Kukuczka did't want to climb because Gasherbrum IV is "only" 7925 meter high so it's not an 8000 meters peak.Anyway: they came back before they started the real climb and after that they were never again climbing together.
One year later Kurtyka came back on Gasherbrum IV with Robert Schauer-it was an epic ascent.They climbed all the wall but due to bad weather and fatigue they passed the summit ridge(it's pretty long)in the lowest point and didn't manage to climb the real top.
I don't know anything about later attempts.
Good description of Child's expedition you may find in his book "Mixed feelings",there is also a chapter about Kurtyka so maybe there you'll find all necessary informations.I had this book but unfortunately( as many others) I lent it so I cannot check it for you.
Regards
jacek
Corax - Aug 31, 2005 4:07 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentAha, it was the first time they were there, they almost reached the summit. I thought it was in 1985.
It was their second time on the top(they made an "acclimatization" ascent in 1982 without the permission via normal route).
:-)
Yes!
This was so cool. It said on the permit: Acclimatization on other lower peaks allowed. So they climbed Broad Peak as acclimatization for K2. No one would've known about ít unless Messner had ratted on them.
Thanks again for all the info. I will add some of it on the main page.
Expect a mail with some more questions as well. There is another part of the long Polish climbing history I need some info about.
Cheers, Corax.
jck - Aug 31, 2005 4:21 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentFell free asking me,if I know I will surely give you the answer.
So in the descritption of Gash IV just fix the dates(ten years earlier 1984 and 1985).But it's difficult to say tjat the one that Kurtyka did with Kukuczka in 1984 is an real attempt,they decide to come back just below the wall.But the most important is the expedition with Schauer in 1985.
With Broad Peak is rally funny story because as you wrote: they were attempting K2 so they made an aclimatization on lower peaks-Broad Peak.
Regards
Jacek
Mathias Zehring - Aug 30, 2005 6:09 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled Commentvery good! one of those pages to dream about a mountain...
Corax - Aug 31, 2005 6:00 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote and nice words!
Corax - Aug 31, 2005 6:01 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote!
nomad - Aug 31, 2005 4:08 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentGreat page for a great mountain :)
Corax - Sep 1, 2005 3:51 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the comment and the vote!
Corax - Sep 1, 2005 3:51 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote!
Martin Cash - Sep 1, 2005 11:09 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentFantastic page, thanks for adding it.