Nice account Eric - I don't think I would have run down to LeConte Canyon as unhesitatingly as you did. Only error I note is minor - David Wright was not with Ron & Joyce when we met up with them at the col. David was still climbing up to another col just north of that one and hadn't quite reached it when the accident occurred.
Thank ya Bob, and in retrospect I probably moved with more haste than I should have(for my own safety). I made the change to the report, always hard to remember every single detail. Thanks again for organizing the entire challenge, and congrats on getting all 10.
Oh the thought of the repercussion definitely clicked through my head for a several minutes. Running downhill 2500ft with a water bottle and bagel, just to have to reclimb it all. Not something I would do for fun(maybe I would though), but desperate times call for desperate measures. At least I didn't puke :)
It appears that those involved did everything right after the incident occured. However, I'm a little surprised that there isn't more discussion on how this incident could have been prevented. The incarnation of the entire trip seems to fly in the face of standard backcountry travel protocol, which includes having a trip leader and that leader knowing where all members of the trip are located. Also, the climbing scenario seems pretty shaky. Why weren't people wearing helmets? Why was a clear climbing novice on 4th class rock without being roped and belayed, especially after an 8+ mile approach and high altitude considerations? I realize that the first four summiters were experienced in climbing 4th class rock without a rope, however, assuming that a relative beginner was capable of climbing that same terrain seems to be a pretty significant error in judgement. I've been on Giraud at that saddle where the accident occurred and by the injured climber's own account she fell when a hold she had grabbed broke loose. That is definitely 4th class terrain, especially considering that she fell thirty feet before striking any surface. "Freedom of The Hills", Secor's Sierra book and many others all describe 4th class climbing as a situation that should be roped. What you decide for yourself is one thing, how you lead new comers in wilderness travel is something else entirely.
I do not disagree that there were many aspects of the events leading up to the accident that did not adhere to "standard" backcountry protocol. The Sierra Challenge is a strange event in that many of the participants have only met breifly, and there is even a disclaimer stating that one should know their own level and limits(since others do not). That being said, helmets should have been worn, maybe more caution should have been taken initially, maybe a different peak should have been selected. If if if, is always easier in hind sight. What it comes down to is that what we all do out there is dangerous, at some point in everyone's career they push the envelope of what they can and should be doing. Some just get lucky, while others not as much. I have not been on a trip without a helmet since, and it definately gives one a new view of what we do. I applaud you for raising the questions, and do agree that more attention should be paid to incidents like this, where bad could have been worse, but wasn't.
Well, it sounds like you guys learned a lot from the experience. In rereading my post, I realize that I sound a bit like an armchair climbing critic. I've certainly made my share of errors in judgement in the back country, and like you say, in those instances I "just got lucky". Nice job on your write-up. My experience has been that wilderness backcountry safety requires constant re-assessment from a personal standpoint. Your straight forward and detailed write-up will be very useful for backcountry travelers at all levels. Good job.
It is easy, in retrospect, to find safety coverage flaws when a accident occurs--the mere fact one happened usually points to some lapse somewhere. But when no accident occurs, we often look back and think we were overly cautious and that slowed us down. The fact is, mountaineering is risky and each person and team has to decide their comfort level of risk/reward on each trip and even obstacle. It is a tribute to the team that they rallied so quickly and put forth some much effort. But was luck in the end that she survived--no amount of their effort could have saved her had her injuries have been more substantial with paramedics 3 hours away. I am glad she made it and equally glad everyone (even us internet spectators) learned a bit from this. Better to learn from a near miss with a happy ending than to bear the weight of self-doubt and a tragedy as a reminder for life.
SJD - Aug 10, 2006 2:14 pm - Voted 10/10
Heroic EffortYour actions and those of the others involved in helping Joyce could only be defined as heroic.
BeDrinkable - Aug 10, 2006 8:42 pm - Voted 10/10
Wow.You've written a gripping account of a terrible event. I'm glad that all are going to recover.
Bob Burd - Aug 17, 2006 4:19 am - Voted 10/10
Fine writeupNice account Eric - I don't think I would have run down to LeConte Canyon as unhesitatingly as you did. Only error I note is minor - David Wright was not with Ron & Joyce when we met up with them at the col. David was still climbing up to another col just north of that one and hadn't quite reached it when the accident occurred.
thebeave7 - Aug 17, 2006 5:11 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Fine writeupThank ya Bob, and in retrospect I probably moved with more haste than I should have(for my own safety). I made the change to the report, always hard to remember every single detail. Thanks again for organizing the entire challenge, and congrats on getting all 10.
Bob Burd - Aug 17, 2006 11:34 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Fine writeupEric - I wasn't referring to how fast you ran down the canyon, but rather how quickly you volumteered to do so. :-)
thebeave7 - Aug 18, 2006 3:29 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Fine writeupOh the thought of the repercussion definitely clicked through my head for a several minutes. Running downhill 2500ft with a water bottle and bagel, just to have to reclimb it all. Not something I would do for fun(maybe I would though), but desperate times call for desperate measures. At least I didn't puke :)
Sierra Homeboy - Jan 30, 2007 11:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Fine writeupIt appears that those involved did everything right after the incident occured. However, I'm a little surprised that there isn't more discussion on how this incident could have been prevented. The incarnation of the entire trip seems to fly in the face of standard backcountry travel protocol, which includes having a trip leader and that leader knowing where all members of the trip are located. Also, the climbing scenario seems pretty shaky. Why weren't people wearing helmets? Why was a clear climbing novice on 4th class rock without being roped and belayed, especially after an 8+ mile approach and high altitude considerations? I realize that the first four summiters were experienced in climbing 4th class rock without a rope, however, assuming that a relative beginner was capable of climbing that same terrain seems to be a pretty significant error in judgement. I've been on Giraud at that saddle where the accident occurred and by the injured climber's own account she fell when a hold she had grabbed broke loose. That is definitely 4th class terrain, especially considering that she fell thirty feet before striking any surface. "Freedom of The Hills", Secor's Sierra book and many others all describe 4th class climbing as a situation that should be roped. What you decide for yourself is one thing, how you lead new comers in wilderness travel is something else entirely.
thebeave7 - Jan 31, 2007 6:08 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Fine writeupI do not disagree that there were many aspects of the events leading up to the accident that did not adhere to "standard" backcountry protocol. The Sierra Challenge is a strange event in that many of the participants have only met breifly, and there is even a disclaimer stating that one should know their own level and limits(since others do not). That being said, helmets should have been worn, maybe more caution should have been taken initially, maybe a different peak should have been selected. If if if, is always easier in hind sight. What it comes down to is that what we all do out there is dangerous, at some point in everyone's career they push the envelope of what they can and should be doing. Some just get lucky, while others not as much. I have not been on a trip without a helmet since, and it definately gives one a new view of what we do. I applaud you for raising the questions, and do agree that more attention should be paid to incidents like this, where bad could have been worse, but wasn't.
Sierra Homeboy - Jan 31, 2007 9:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Fine writeupWell, it sounds like you guys learned a lot from the experience. In rereading my post, I realize that I sound a bit like an armchair climbing critic. I've certainly made my share of errors in judgement in the back country, and like you say, in those instances I "just got lucky". Nice job on your write-up. My experience has been that wilderness backcountry safety requires constant re-assessment from a personal standpoint. Your straight forward and detailed write-up will be very useful for backcountry travelers at all levels. Good job.
surfingmarmot - Jul 23, 2007 10:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Good teamworkIt is easy, in retrospect, to find safety coverage flaws when a accident occurs--the mere fact one happened usually points to some lapse somewhere. But when no accident occurs, we often look back and think we were overly cautious and that slowed us down. The fact is, mountaineering is risky and each person and team has to decide their comfort level of risk/reward on each trip and even obstacle. It is a tribute to the team that they rallied so quickly and put forth some much effort. But was luck in the end that she survived--no amount of their effort could have saved her had her injuries have been more substantial with paramedics 3 hours away. I am glad she made it and equally glad everyone (even us internet spectators) learned a bit from this. Better to learn from a near miss with a happy ending than to bear the weight of self-doubt and a tragedy as a reminder for life.