I read and studied the route described by Tom Fralich on the approach to the Ayoloco Hut. Then I was informed by another member of summit post that there is actually an alternate approach to the Hut. I just came back from climbing Izta (2/19/04) and we approached the hut using this alternate approach.
Take the lower trail from La Joya and drop down into the Tlaltipatango Valley below. Go across the valley and up the opposite face towards the "first saddle". Follow the many "cow paths". Everything is same up to this point. See my pics.
Now, at about 13,500 ft, hang a right towards the second saddle following the many more "cow paths". At the top of the second saddle, you will encounter class 3 rocks. Once you climb over the second saddle, you'll be at about 14,500 ft. You'll also see a memorial cross. See my pics.
From there, you'll see an obvious scree slope up and to the left (facing Izta). There are several trails leading to the scree slope so just pick one. At the top of the scree slope, you'll be at about 15,000 ft. See my pics.
At the top of the scree slope, you'll notice a ridge directly across. Climb up and over this ridge and traverse across few hundred feet. The hut will come into view very shortly at about 15,200 ft. See my pics.
I can not tell you if this approach is easier then the one described by Tom Fralich. From La Joya to the hut took us little less than 5 hours. This included at least one hour in breaks and carrying 45-55 pound packs (including 10 liters of water!) We carried all the water for one night stay at the hut. We crossed only one stream but this was in the Tlaltipatango Valley. Not much help when you're camping some 2000 vertical feet from there. A lot of snow patches around the hut, thanks to the recent snow storm but in drier years, finding snow to melt could be difficult. If you're climbing earlier in the season (Nov, Dec), snow should not be difficult to find, I would think.
Thanks for the info. I remember seeing a higher path that split off just as we were leaving the hut during our descent. This is probably the route which you have described. Good job on the description. I've incorporated the info onto the Ayoloco Glacier page.
I made the approach to the hut twice this January (once as an acclimatization hike and once to relocate to high camp). As of now, the secondary route proposed by Esugi is certainly the most obvious route, particularly for the descent.
Note that the Ayoloco glacier is now basically just a big snow patch. Be sure to bring crampons as the ice is rather hard, and be careful later in the day, as there is a real risk of punching through the snow to the rocks and meltwater below.
This route is still tremendously worthwhile due to its isolation and beauty. Tom's approach, by the way, is much more fun than the other route, due to the waterfalls and superior position on the mountain to see good views into the valley below.
Hut is in good condition but is now inhabited by a rather cunning mouse. Keep your food well sealed or hang it while sleeping.
esugi - Feb 28, 2004 5:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI read and studied the route described by Tom Fralich on the approach to the Ayoloco Hut. Then I was informed by another member of summit post that there is actually an alternate approach to the Hut. I just came back from climbing Izta (2/19/04) and we approached the hut using this alternate approach.
Take the lower trail from La Joya and drop down into the Tlaltipatango Valley below. Go across the valley and up the opposite face towards the "first saddle". Follow the many "cow paths". Everything is same up to this point. See my pics.
Now, at about 13,500 ft, hang a right towards the second saddle following the many more "cow paths". At the top of the second saddle, you will encounter class 3 rocks. Once you climb over the second saddle, you'll be at about 14,500 ft. You'll also see a memorial cross. See my pics.
From there, you'll see an obvious scree slope up and to the left (facing Izta). There are several trails leading to the scree slope so just pick one. At the top of the scree slope, you'll be at about 15,000 ft. See my pics.
At the top of the scree slope, you'll notice a ridge directly across. Climb up and over this ridge and traverse across few hundred feet. The hut will come into view very shortly at about 15,200 ft. See my pics.
I can not tell you if this approach is easier then the one described by Tom Fralich. From La Joya to the hut took us little less than 5 hours. This included at least one hour in breaks and carrying 45-55 pound packs (including 10 liters of water!) We carried all the water for one night stay at the hut. We crossed only one stream but this was in the Tlaltipatango Valley. Not much help when you're camping some 2000 vertical feet from there. A lot of snow patches around the hut, thanks to the recent snow storm but in drier years, finding snow to melt could be difficult. If you're climbing earlier in the season (Nov, Dec), snow should not be difficult to find, I would think.
Tom Fralich - Mar 2, 2004 12:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThanks for the info. I remember seeing a higher path that split off just as we were leaving the hut during our descent. This is probably the route which you have described. Good job on the description. I've incorporated the info onto the Ayoloco Glacier page.
Jmarks07 - Apr 7, 2018 12:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Conditions as of Jan 2018I made the approach to the hut twice this January (once as an acclimatization hike and once to relocate to high camp). As of now, the secondary route proposed by Esugi is certainly the most obvious route, particularly for the descent.
Note that the Ayoloco glacier is now basically just a big snow patch. Be sure to bring crampons as the ice is rather hard, and be careful later in the day, as there is a real risk of punching through the snow to the rocks and meltwater below.
This route is still tremendously worthwhile due to its isolation and beauty. Tom's approach, by the way, is much more fun than the other route, due to the waterfalls and superior position on the mountain to see good views into the valley below.
Hut is in good condition but is now inhabited by a rather cunning mouse. Keep your food well sealed or hang it while sleeping.