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RandySGerdine/Cool Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006
The route description on this site is excellent and it saved us a lot of time on the approach. Upper Foam Basin is a little difficult to negotiate and find the easiest traverse route from above, but the photo on this site taken from the other direction shows it quite well.
The temperatures on the trip were brutal - in the 90's with no wind. On our 4 day trip, we made first camp at White Pass; our intended high camp the second day was Glacier Gap but the heat and exhaustion from the first day got us only to 6700' in the moraine of the former White Chuck Glacier. The only remaining portion of the glacier is the high, southeast portion.
We got a 3 a.m. start on the third day from our high camp but with no moon, high overcast and almost total darkness, negotiating the upper moraine was slow. Once above Glacier Gap, the route was straight-forward.
The Gerdine Glacier was fairly gentle with no crevasses in the upper portion. We stayed just below a rockfall field off of Disappointment Peak and then negotiated a 100 ft section of blue ice where the Gerdine met the Cool Glacier. From there, we stayed close to Disappointment Peak to the col and then easy scree/ash and a final steep snow gully to the summit. 8 hours from high camp and 4 hours down. Return to car from high camp was 8 hours on the last day.
My suggestion for this route is to make it as early as possible to ensure snow travel where the White Chuck Glacier used to be.
Posted Jul 24, 2006 5:21 pm

Snidely WhiplashRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1985

Snidely Whiplash

A really beautiful mountain in a beautiful setting. My favorite of all of the volcanoes.
Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:27 pm

mandrakeRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2003  Sucess!


Bit cloudy and cold down below, but weather improved remarkably. Clear and tremendous views off of the summit.
Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:40 pm

NormanRoute Climbed: White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-7, 2005  Sucess!


Fantastic mountain to climb! Remote area with few people. Perfect weather for climbing friend Nick and myself. Took three days, no one else on the mountain on summit day. It is about 30 miles round trip via N Fork Saulk trail.
Posted Sep 9, 2005 10:46 am

diceyRoute Climbed: Frostbite ridge, Kennedy glacier Date Climbed: July 2001, 2002
Haven't made the tipy top on either attempt...argh!
Posted Sep 4, 2005 2:47 pm

cgclimberRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 04, 2000  Sucess!


Came back for seconds.
Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:59 pm

cgclimberRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 06, 1999  Sucess!


My first time on a glacier.
Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:57 pm

Scott DusekRoute Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: June 21st 2000  Sucess!

Scott Dusek

Dad and I took the plunge. Stayed on top, beautifull night.
Posted May 30, 2005 9:17 pm

Aaron DyerRoute Climbed: Frostbit Ridge Date Climbed: July 2003

Aaron Dyer

Weather turned us back two days in a row
Posted Mar 23, 2005 11:16 pm

cgaileyRoute Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!


What an incredible mountain. To emphasize how attractive it is, a friend of mine and I from Anchorage both flew down to climb it. And to think that we don't have enough mountains to climb in AK!

This route is very tame...just a long arduous hike. Well worth the effort and I would do it again in an instant. Unfortunately, our trip was cut short (we planned to hike out via the PCT heading north after the summit) by bad weather, but the time spent at Boulder Basin was most excellent. Mac and Cheese at the summit was nice as well!
Posted Aug 29, 2004 12:58 am

Derek FranzenRoute Climbed: White Chuck Glacier / Disapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 14/15/16 1978  Sucess!

Derek Franzen

With Ann & Ken Winkes, Barb Richey and other SAC member, Tad. Long hike in to Glacier 1st day. Climbed up White Mountain on way in, great place for photos. Next day up Glacier to Cleaver, climbed directly up Cleaver and then on to summit. Fairly high winds at summit, did not hang around too long. Back to camp, good glissade down alongside Cleaver. White Chuck glacier seemed quite flat on way down. After leaving glacier members seperated somewhat on way to camp. Tad didn't show up at camp and after 1/2 hour we went searching for him. Tad was sound asleep on a boulder near the terminus of the glacier, we coaxed him back to camp before dark. Another long hike out the next day. Not too many flies, good weather.
Posted Aug 16, 2004 10:48 am

esugiRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: August 24, 2003  Sucess!


Absolutely beautiful day as can be seen from my photo submissions.

This is my second summit of G.P. After the first time, I vowed never to return again (the 10 mile approach in one day with BIG flies eating me up was not a very pleasant experience!) 3 years later, I was back again, this time the same 10 mile approach but NO flies.

Our 3 man rope team left boulder basin at 2:15 am and summitted at 8 am. The view from the summit of this mountain is one of the best!
Posted Mar 1, 2004 12:54 pm

jverschuylRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: September 17, 2000  Sucess!


Beautiful fall day. We topped out of the clouds about 1000 feet above our camp in Boulder basin. The middle of the Sitkum glacier was icy but for the rest we did not need crampons.
Posted Oct 24, 2003 10:04 am

iandotenRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 12 2003  Sucess!
Clear and cool on the way up, clouds moved in while on top but good views while they lasted. Approach is not as bad as it is hyped up to be but is definitely long (and quite steep at the end).
Posted Oct 1, 2003 6:30 pm

schitthaedtRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: September 21, 2003  Sucess!


Route was mostly bare ice, except for frozen remnants of recent snowfall near the summit. Crampons were absolutely necessary. I climbed via the standard ridge and traversed around the south side of the summit spires. Lots of ice chunks were showering off of the southern faces of the summit spires, and the final chute was ice turning into ice crust over powder, a little steep with some exposure. Descended northwest side of the west summit spire, which felt shorter, a little less exposed, and was free of icefall, but was steep and required crossing the bergshrund of the Scimitar Glacier.
Posted Sep 22, 2003 1:05 pm

Paul MorganRoute Climbed: Disappoinment Peak Route Date Climbed: August 4, 2003
Two important things to know about this route - first, the White Chuck Glacier does not look anything like it appears on the maps. It has receeded substantially. Don't be fooled into going up the visible portion of the glacier, the proper route continues north, then climbs thru a narrow rocky gully to glacier gap. Second, the access to the Cool Glacier from Geraldine Glacier was difficult. Expect to climb over and through ice blocks. We didn't attempt this because we were not prepared.

Final note - observed a coyote on the upper Coll Glacier - don't know who was more surprised, him or us.
Posted Aug 7, 2003 5:08 pm

lkrancusRoute Climbed: Sitkum Ridge Date Climbed: July 6, 2003  Sucess!


Took a variation of Sitkum Ridge. Instead of following the lousy rocky ridge, we shot straight for the summit from the upper Sitkum Glacier. A bit steeper, but a bit funner. Also managed to find some 60+ degree hard snow on the north side of the summit. What a finish! Had the route to ourselves!
Posted Jul 15, 2003 9:09 pm

igneousioRoute Climbed: Frostbite Ridge Date Climbed: July 6 2003  Sucess!


What a huge mountain! We hiked to Kennedy Hot Springs at 3300 ft. day 1. Though the net gain is only 1000 feet , there is probably 500 feet of up/down. Day 2 took us up the PCT to the climbers trail and up to our camp on (I guess) Kennedy ridge, around 6,600 feet. The weather was somewhat wet with the mountain socked in. Day 3 we arose to clear, warm weather! We started out at 5 a.m., parted the Rabbit Ears at 10:00, and stood on the summit just before noon. Most of the route was good cramponing snow. We set a few pickets in three places 1) right below ears on the way up, 2) after the notch on the other side of the ears, and 3) on the steep ramp right below the summit slope. This is a great route. Max snow angle was probably 50 degrees. No open crevasses, though my leg plunged into a hole that will be a small crevasse soon, right after the ears. No significant ice, but there is a small bergshrund trying to open on the final summit slope that actually held a screw pretty well. I would want some wands or at least steady GPS points in case of poor visibility though. The route winds around and goes up and down. In the few clouds we got on descent, it does get a little confusing. We used a GPS, and it was helpful on the way down. It took 5 hours to get down to camp. Day 4 we hiked the 10 miles out - 2.5 hours to KHS, then 2.5 hours to Trailhead. I'm glad we took 4 days to do this - it's a very enjoyable area and route if you don't have to take a beating as a beast of burden packing all that stuff for miles and miles.
Posted Jul 9, 2003 10:13 am

scot'teryxRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: May 31, 2003  Sucess!


The approach was hellish, as snow did not start until 5700'in Boulder Basin, and the TH is at 2300'. Plus that is about 5-6 miles in before you can skin to base camp.

It rained on saturday night and crappy on sunday morning

I told everyone there was no way I was not going to go for the summit, since we had tracks from previous climbers, and we had 50 wands and only 3500 feet to go to the summit from base camp at the base of the Sitkum Glacier

But since it rained and was windy, tracks were hard to follow, and I went over a hidden crevasse on the lower sitkum that night when I went to yo-yo the slope but it turned out to be white out for my ski down, so it was a total waste.

Sunday morning we got up to Sitkum ridge and found our way up to the upper sitkum glacier, and around 9k it opened up to blue skies and we got above the clouds

From there on to the upper ridge it was perfect skinning, but on the ridge saddle is where I left my crampons, and of course that is where I started to boot it up, and only 200 feet up it got real icy, as the freezing level had dropped the night before as there were a few inches of freshiez. Scarpa Lasers do kick good steps evern in hard ice and rime though!

We traversed under the summit and everyone went right around to the summit and I went left since there were steps up the gulley, then went straight up that steep headwall to the summit plateau, and then up to the final summit.

The ski down was icy and Chuck and I followed previous tracks, and from the ridge saddle down to the lower ridgeline was some of the best skiing I have had this year. We skied past 2 rope teams of 3 (rope?). After the ridge it turned to mush since it had rained there and it was survival skiing from then on.

The ski down from base camp (7200) to our shoes sucked as well, but better than booting it. Our shoes were soaked that we had left there, and the hike out literally sucked since we had the skis on our packs with a full pack. I vow to never go back there again

Now alison says she wants to go next year...........

Our times were:

TH to Base camp: 5 hours

BC to Summit: 3 hours

Summit to BC: 23 minutes

BC to TH: 4 hours

Posted Jun 2, 2003 5:09 pm

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: Kennedy Hot Springs to Kennedy Glacier Date Climbed: Summer '97  Sucess!

Joe Hanssen

This was the first 'mountain' my friends and I tried to climb. We made four attempts starting in '93 before reaching the summit in '97. Lack of mountaineering knowledge and poor weather conditions prevented the first three attempts. In '97, Ryan Hembree and I climbed the Kennedy Glacier route, then climbed two pitches of 70 snow and ice on the north face of the summit block as a variation.
Posted Jul 29, 2002 10:15 am

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