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nodbodCool Glacier  Sucess!


Awesome climb. Definately the funnest volcano climb in Washington
Posted Jan 19, 2007 10:41 pm

osatrikFrostbite Ridge - 3rd try is the charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 1999


Bailed one year at the Rabbit Ears due to party inexperience.
Bailed another year in the crater when a climber was injured (crampon gash) dropping into the crater, just as I was enjoying the steep ice on the other side of the crater -- so near and yet so far.
Four OSAT climbers, Dick W, Bill L, Jenny G and I, finally did the route in 1999, but summit conditions were foggy and we actually pulled out our compasses to get to the right quadrant of the crater on the way out.
Posted Sep 2, 2006 3:51 pm

brotherGerdine/Cool  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006


What a great place to climb! Great party (Bob and Ty), solitude, strenuous approach, great weather, nice glaciers. The summit was calm, the view fantastic.
Posted Aug 21, 2006 8:51 pm

RandySGerdine/Cool Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006
The route description on this site is excellent and it saved us a lot of time on the approach. Upper Foam Basin is a little difficult to negotiate and find the easiest traverse route from above, but the photo on this site taken from the other direction shows it quite well.
The temperatures on the trip were brutal - in the 90's with no wind. On our 4 day trip, we made first camp at White Pass; our intended high camp the second day was Glacier Gap but the heat and exhaustion from the first day got us only to 6700' in the moraine of the former White Chuck Glacier. The only remaining portion of the glacier is the high, southeast portion.
We got a 3 a.m. start on the third day from our high camp but with no moon, high overcast and almost total darkness, negotiating the upper moraine was slow. Once above Glacier Gap, the route was straight-forward.
The Gerdine Glacier was fairly gentle with no crevasses in the upper portion. We stayed just below a rockfall field off of Disappointment Peak and then negotiated a 100 ft section of blue ice where the Gerdine met the Cool Glacier. From there, we stayed close to Disappointment Peak to the col and then easy scree/ash and a final steep snow gully to the summit. 8 hours from high camp and 4 hours down. Return to car from high camp was 8 hours on the last day.
My suggestion for this route is to make it as early as possible to ensure snow travel where the White Chuck Glacier used to be.
Posted Jul 24, 2006 5:21 pm

Snidely WhiplashRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1985

Snidely Whiplash

A really beautiful mountain in a beautiful setting. My favorite of all of the volcanoes.
Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:27 pm

mandrakeRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2003  Sucess!


Bit cloudy and cold down below, but weather improved remarkably. Clear and tremendous views off of the summit.
Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:40 pm

NormanRoute Climbed: White Chuck/Gerdine/Cool Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-7, 2005  Sucess!


Fantastic mountain to climb! Remote area with few people. Perfect weather for climbing friend Nick and myself. Took three days, no one else on the mountain on summit day. It is about 30 miles round trip via N Fork Saulk trail.
Posted Sep 9, 2005 10:46 am

diceyRoute Climbed: Frostbite ridge, Kennedy glacier Date Climbed: July 2001, 2002
Haven't made the tipy top on either attempt...argh!
Posted Sep 4, 2005 2:47 pm

cgclimberRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 04, 2000  Sucess!


Came back for seconds.
Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:59 pm

cgclimberRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 06, 1999  Sucess!


My first time on a glacier.
Posted Jul 22, 2005 4:57 pm

Scott DusekRoute Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: June 21st 2000  Sucess!

Scott Dusek

Dad and I took the plunge. Stayed on top, beautifull night.
Posted May 30, 2005 9:17 pm

Aaron DyerRoute Climbed: Frostbit Ridge Date Climbed: July 2003

Aaron Dyer

Weather turned us back two days in a row
Posted Mar 23, 2005 11:16 pm

cgaileyRoute Climbed: Sitkum Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!


What an incredible mountain. To emphasize how attractive it is, a friend of mine and I from Anchorage both flew down to climb it. And to think that we don't have enough mountains to climb in AK!

This route is very tame...just a long arduous hike. Well worth the effort and I would do it again in an instant. Unfortunately, our trip was cut short (we planned to hike out via the PCT heading north after the summit) by bad weather, but the time spent at Boulder Basin was most excellent. Mac and Cheese at the summit was nice as well!
Posted Aug 29, 2004 12:58 am

Derek FranzenRoute Climbed: White Chuck Glacier / Disapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 14/15/16 1978  Sucess!

Derek Franzen

With Ann & Ken Winkes, Barb Richey and other SAC member, Tad. Long hike in to Glacier 1st day. Climbed up White Mountain on way in, great place for photos. Next day up Glacier to Cleaver, climbed directly up Cleaver and then on to summit. Fairly high winds at summit, did not hang around too long. Back to camp, good glissade down alongside Cleaver. White Chuck glacier seemed quite flat on way down. After leaving glacier members seperated somewhat on way to camp. Tad didn't show up at camp and after 1/2 hour we went searching for him. Tad was sound asleep on a boulder near the terminus of the glacier, we coaxed him back to camp before dark. Another long hike out the next day. Not too many flies, good weather.
Posted Aug 16, 2004 10:48 am

esugiRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: August 24, 2003  Sucess!


Absolutely beautiful day as can be seen from my photo submissions.

This is my second summit of G.P. After the first time, I vowed never to return again (the 10 mile approach in one day with BIG flies eating me up was not a very pleasant experience!) 3 years later, I was back again, this time the same 10 mile approach but NO flies.

Our 3 man rope team left boulder basin at 2:15 am and summitted at 8 am. The view from the summit of this mountain is one of the best!
Posted Mar 1, 2004 12:54 pm

jverschuylRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: September 17, 2000  Sucess!


Beautiful fall day. We topped out of the clouds about 1000 feet above our camp in Boulder basin. The middle of the Sitkum glacier was icy but for the rest we did not need crampons.
Posted Oct 24, 2003 10:04 am

iandotenRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: July 12 2003  Sucess!
Clear and cool on the way up, clouds moved in while on top but good views while they lasted. Approach is not as bad as it is hyped up to be but is definitely long (and quite steep at the end).
Posted Oct 1, 2003 6:30 pm

schitthaedtRoute Climbed: Sitkum Glacier Date Climbed: September 21, 2003  Sucess!


Route was mostly bare ice, except for frozen remnants of recent snowfall near the summit. Crampons were absolutely necessary. I climbed via the standard ridge and traversed around the south side of the summit spires. Lots of ice chunks were showering off of the southern faces of the summit spires, and the final chute was ice turning into ice crust over powder, a little steep with some exposure. Descended northwest side of the west summit spire, which felt shorter, a little less exposed, and was free of icefall, but was steep and required crossing the bergshrund of the Scimitar Glacier.
Posted Sep 22, 2003 1:05 pm

Paul MorganRoute Climbed: Disappoinment Peak Route Date Climbed: August 4, 2003
Two important things to know about this route - first, the White Chuck Glacier does not look anything like it appears on the maps. It has receeded substantially. Don't be fooled into going up the visible portion of the glacier, the proper route continues north, then climbs thru a narrow rocky gully to glacier gap. Second, the access to the Cool Glacier from Geraldine Glacier was difficult. Expect to climb over and through ice blocks. We didn't attempt this because we were not prepared.

Final note - observed a coyote on the upper Coll Glacier - don't know who was more surprised, him or us.
Posted Aug 7, 2003 5:08 pm

lkrancusRoute Climbed: Sitkum Ridge Date Climbed: July 6, 2003  Sucess!


Took a variation of Sitkum Ridge. Instead of following the lousy rocky ridge, we shot straight for the summit from the upper Sitkum Glacier. A bit steeper, but a bit funner. Also managed to find some 60+ degree hard snow on the north side of the summit. What a finish! Had the route to ourselves!
Posted Jul 15, 2003 9:09 pm

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