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blueshadeGrand Teton - Owen-Spalding  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010


Completely missed passing through the Meadows in the dark but was a nice surprise when we reached the Moraine. Chimneys had some ice from a recent storm but not a problem. Belly Crawl wasn't bad at all. Nice scrambling above the Upper Saddle and great views on top.
Posted Aug 19, 2010 12:49 pm

heather14Upper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2010


Camped in the Moraine. Wind was blowing pretty hard, felt like I was in a trash bag, got less than an hour of sleep. Climbed the Upper Exum in stellar conditions. Great views all around.
Posted Aug 8, 2010 8:57 am

SKIHit and miss  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010


Tried the Lower Exum after pitching some crap rock down in the moraines, buddy of mine fell and had a boulder land on his chest prompting an immediate descent. After shortroping him to the lower saddle, he toppled over from exhaustion prompting oxygen and first aid treatment by the rangers with assistance from Exum Guides. After escorting him back to the tent, I ended up just soloing the (very wet) OS and helped a group of people descend (no helmets, rappel devices... what gives?). Broke camp, trekked out and drove back to Reno all in that same 24 hours. Long ass day.
Posted Jul 20, 2010 8:17 am

seanoUpper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2010


Soloed in about 9h car-to-car, 5h15 up on a windy day with no views from the summit. The step-around at the end of Wall Street was truly terrifying, especially with the wind, and I'm not sure I'd repeat it. Other than that, fun climb.

Since then, I've climbed the Owen-Spalding and Direct Exum. Trip reports here, here, and here.
Posted Jul 12, 2010 6:36 pm

montyq2Upper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2010
Car to car in 11h54m. Started hiking from the parking lot at 2:45AM.Beautiful weather, but a lot of late season snow and ice all over the upper mountain which slowed us down. We saw one other solo climber above the lower saddle the entire time which was astounding.Managed the rappels with one 60m rope.Not a cloud in the sky from the summit. Perfect climb!
Posted Jul 10, 2010 4:01 pm

jamesmc2Finally Made It


First trip resulted in us taking a wrong turn and getting lost. Second trip we tried the Upper Exum in early October and got snowed out only 200' from the summit. Third attempt we climbed the Full Exum ridge to the summit (2003)! I have since returned and summited the Upper Exum again (2006). Anything can happen in the Tetons.
Posted Jul 5, 2010 12:57 am

mongoose762Owen Spaulding Route  Sucess!


Like many here, went with Exum guides. Lynne wolf did a great job keeping me on track and showing me the route. Rod Newcomb also did a good job with the prep during the days before. Highly recommended.
Posted Jul 4, 2010 7:06 pm

jdw10Grand Teton  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2008


Successful Summit with Exum Guides
Posted Jun 29, 2010 2:08 pm

Vertigo soulStettner/Chevy/Ford  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010

Vertigo soul

Full winter conditions, but excellent alpine ice climbing in the couloirs. Climbed with SP member "gcap". Other than strong winds, a great day and awarding climb and summit!
Posted Jun 24, 2010 12:14 pm

gcapStettner Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010


Climbed the Stettner Couloir (Chevy/Ford) variation with SP member Verigo Soul in winter conditions. Descending via the O/S route. Bluebird but very windy.
Posted Jun 23, 2010 2:30 pm

merrillUpper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2004


First time climbing in the Tetons. Awesome trip. I think I'll have to go again.
Posted May 31, 2010 10:23 pm

merrillOwen-Spaulding  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009


Lead three friends up for their first time. Originally planned three weeks prior but a major storm dumped a foot of snow on the lower saddle. I'm sure glad we rescheduled. Third time on top.
Posted May 31, 2010 10:20 pm

monealFull Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2010


Lower Exum is all that.
Posted Apr 27, 2010 8:28 pm

reboylesSmith-Otter Body  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1973


Having never visited the Tetons, Mike and I thought we were going to do the Exum but got a bit off track and ended up on the Smith. We climbed solo for the first 500 feet or so above the glacier until we got into the dihedral below the giant hanging icicle formed from the meltwater from the Smith. Being Sawtooth climbers, we underestimated the length of this route and ended up spending the night at 13,000' without bags or heavy jackets. We climbed solo down the upper Underhill and Lower Exum all the way back to the saddle.
Posted Feb 21, 2010 5:59 pm

builttospillTwo Climbs, One Month  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008


August 8, 2008: Soloed the upper exum ridge from a camp at the Lower Saddle. We wanted to do the NW ice couloir on the Middle and then the Enclosure Ice Couloir the following day, but bad weather in the morning stopped those plans. At 9 am the weather cleared so I set off up the route and found myself on top a few hours later. Met up with some nice folks on top and joined their group for the descent.

August 13-14, 2008: Climbed the north ridge (Italian cracks) with dunsum as part of the Cathedral Traverse. Taking it at a leisurely pace, we bivied just below the summit of Owen and did the grandstand traverse and the North Ridge the next day. A fantastic two days of climbing--the North Ridge is excellent.
Posted Feb 5, 2010 3:13 am

merrillRe: Two Climbs, One Month


Sounds like the grand traverse was fun. You should write a TR. I would like to read it. When we climbed Owen a few years back ('06 I think) a group was setting up a bivy before ascending the east face.
Posted May 31, 2010 10:36 pm

bizUpper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010


Camped at the lower saddle the night before with only a fly and poles. Very windy and hard to sleep with flapping tent. Woke up to a cold morning and made the ascent. Descended the Owen Spalding route.
Posted Feb 4, 2010 3:17 pm

bryangastClose call  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1993


Owen-spalding route. Got stuck (traffic) in an ice chimney, got wet, got really cold.
Posted Jan 7, 2010 8:04 pm

birdSuper fun on Upper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009


Great fun with 3 great partners. Hail on the approach to Moraine camp. Then in and out of clouds on summit day. Fun times!
Posted Oct 31, 2009 7:50 am

splattskiUpper Exum, more or less  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2009


T-shirts on the summit. Snow and ice on the OS descent.
We followed two guys who had climbed it several times, but couldn't remember the exact route. Ended up on the summit anyway.
Trip report
Posted Sep 21, 2009 7:35 am

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