Teton Range > Grand Teton > Climber's LogGrand Teton Climber's Log
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| Diggler | complete Exum  Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2008 | |
| This was the highlight of my trip to the Tetons (esp. considering the weather prevented us from doing any of the other climbs we'd planned). It was great to be able to go back here to climb a (THE) peak only accessible to "experienced" climbers, as the ranger told me as a kid when I visited with my mom (one of my favorite vacations ever). Even better to do one of the classic routes with a good friend. To Moraine Camp from TH took 5 hours of moderate hiking. We were starting up the base of the ridge by 8.30, after leaving camp at 6.30. We were at Wall St. at ~15.30, & summited ~17.30. Back at camp by 21.30. Belayed 1.5 pitches on Upper Exum (including the Friction Pitch). Fittingly, led/climbed the whole thing in my 5.10 Exum Guides (time for a career change??? :) Great completing another CLASSIC route (it truly deserves that designation) on another world-class mountain with ya, G Man. Weather was great, rock perfect, views tremendous, & position commanding. A great trip, & an awesome climb! | |
| Posted Sep 3, 2008 4:36 pm | ||
| gordonye | Direct Exum Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2008 | |
| A long day from moraines camp with Dirk. For the upper Exum we roped up for the friction pitch and a short section just before that. The rock is beautiful and amazingly varied, and we had about perfect weather. The "black face" pitch and the last pitch of the lower Exum were my favorites. Summit views were incredible. The approach and regular descent route were hell compared to most routes I've done in CA, the descent rappels were intimidating too. | |
| Posted Sep 2, 2008 10:38 pm | ||
| Thomas Gurviez | by owen-spalding route Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2008 | |
| Beautiful moutain, great weather in spite of a cold wind blowing all the day long | |
| Posted Aug 28, 2008 10:57 am | ||
| Bluebell08 | Awesome mountain Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2008 | |
| Climbed Pownall-Gilkey with group of 6. Alpine start at 0430 from high camp, had the summit to ourselves for 45 minutes around 0930. Sunny but cold and windy on shaded western side of mountain. | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2008 8:44 pm | ||
| kpthomson | stuck at Briggs slab | |
| With 2 others, lust above the upper saddle heading for Pownall-Gilkey route when a party mem came down w/ breathing problem on Briggs Slab. So live to climb anohter day, we turned around.... | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2008 3:09 pm | ||
| tacoturner | O/S again Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2008 | |
| Incredible weather again for my second Teton visit... Camped at Meadows and climbed South for aclimatization after rough night (super windy), then Grand via the OS next day. Soloed everything to pass the great weather/end of season/Saturday morning crowds--must have been 30 parties on the mountain. Just over 4 hours up from the meadows, about an hour off of my previous time. | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2008 1:34 pm | ||
| tmcrane | OS Route (var. Owen Chimney) Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2008 | |
| Beautiful climb, even on a windy, cloudy day. Highly recommend the Owen Chimney to those who are looking to spice up the ascent with another pitch of technical climbing. My first time to summit the Grand but definitely not the last! | |
| Posted Aug 25, 2008 2:08 pm | ||
| dpsiebert | Upper Exum Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2005 | |
| Started at 4AM and dayhked it. We finished about 3PM. Great climbing on Upper Exum. | |
| Posted Aug 22, 2008 5:43 am | ||
| northface28 | WoW! Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008 | |
| 1st trip to Jackson Hole. I have seen hundreds of pictures of the Tetons and until you see them in person you will never know. I'm lucky to have climbed the Grandest of them all. | ||
| Posted Aug 19, 2008 5:31 pm | ||
| WoundedKnee | Upper Exum Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008 | |
| Got off-route and finished the V-pitch at 4pm. At the time, the route to the summit wasn't obvious to us, so we rapped off to make sure we had enough daylight. Good thing, too, as we decended the wrong gully and had to retrace some of our scrambling back through the eye of the needle. A fun climb, but I'm upset I didn't finish the last couple hundred feet to the summit. | |
| Posted Aug 18, 2008 4:57 pm | ||
| wmolland | The OSMSC Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2008 | |
| This was out sweet variation of the Owen-Spalding which included the never before attempted (as far as we know) "Bucking Bronco" pitch. A sweet climb, somehow with very few people, on a perfect weather day. A celebratory cigar was thoroughly enjoyed on this fine afternoon. | |
| Posted Aug 17, 2008 7:49 pm | ||
| gregoryv | Petzoldt Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008 | |
| Excellent route. Did the Petzold Direct to the Upper Exum. Some excellent exposure and a classic route. Highly recommended. | |
| Posted Aug 17, 2008 2:52 am | ||
| Bill Kish | Upper Exum Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2008 | |
| A fine route on a proud mountain. The threat of storms kept us moving; round trip time was 13 hours from Lupine Meadows. | |
| Posted Aug 11, 2008 11:54 am | ||
| pyerger | love this moutain | |
| Climbed this mountain three times. Iwas successful all three. One on the O.S., and twice on the upper Exum. Will have to go back again! | |
| Posted Aug 4, 2008 11:04 pm | ||
| soslaw | Upper Exum | |
| As they say "a classic route". Six hours round trip from the lower saddle. | |
| Posted Jul 27, 2008 5:22 pm | ||
| marauders | Route Climbed: Upper Exum Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2008 | |
| What a fun two days! Some of the best mountain scenery I've ever seen. We summited on a Thursday and only saw one other group on the Exum Ridge. There were two groups on the Owen-Spalding that we saw as we rappelled down. I would definitely recommend climbing on a weekday, the mountain experience and relative solitude is fantastic! We also lucked out with great weather. | |
| Posted Jul 27, 2008 2:17 pm | ||
| Dave S | Direct Exum Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2008 | |
| Climbed the Direct Exum with Ira Lewis. Lucked out with great weather and only a few other people on the mountain. | |
| Posted Jul 7, 2008 2:06 pm | ||
| TripoliRick | Late start but 20 in line to rap off | |
| Nick and I got a late start (11 am) and we just hiked over to take a look at the route (Exum) when we saw someone above on the first pitch. Hey, we can still go and use their rope for the long rap down. Turned out to be a solo roping climber that was climbing each pitch twice (lead-rap-clean-prussik). It was getting late so we offered to belay his leads. Got to the summit where 20 or so climbers were waiting to rap down. Interesting. | |
| Posted Jul 2, 2008 1:09 am | ||
| lloyd | Petzl Direct | |
| Fun day on the Grand. Finished with the Exum. Much easier than I had remembered it from a few years earlier. | |
| Posted Jun 23, 2008 11:50 pm | ||
| lloyd | Exum | |
| Long day of climbing. Great to stand at the top. | |
| Posted Jun 23, 2008 11:49 pm | ||
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