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18279 Hits
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78.7% Score
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10 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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57.20664°N / 6.22375°W |
Route Type:
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Scrambling |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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Class 3 |
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Overview
This route on Sgurr Alasdair is famous for its 1000 ft. scree chute called "The Great Stone Chute". The scree is so deep and loose that you can expect to start landslides of scree on ascent and descent. However, despite its reputation, the climb can be done efficiently with good route finding; the route is also very direct so I'd recommend it to anyone that has good climbing technique. See my Route Description for how to minimize the suffering on the scree.Getting There
There are at least two obvious approaches to the Great Stone Chute that involve only trail hiking; both options involve driving down to near the end of Glenbrittle road.
- Red Route - starts 70 metres south of parking lot across from the Glen Brittle Hut; the trail skirts the north side of a sheep corral. This route is recommend if you want the views of the East Mor waterfall.
- Blue Route - this is the route described by WalkingHighlands.co.uk. This trail may give you an nicer view of the peak early on.
There is no public transport to the end of Glenbrittle Road so you are on your own here; the Nearest bus stop is in Carbost, 6 kilometres from the start of the walk. Assuming you can find your way to the Sliglachen Hotel (highly recommended), take A863 East, then B8009 East. I recall that you need to keep your eyes open for the left turn onto Glenbrittle Road; take this paved road to just before the campsite at the end of the road, or to the parking lot across from the Glen Brittle Hut, depending on which approach trail you want to take.
Great Stone Chute Approach Topo (Sgurr Alasdair)
Route Description
Great Stone Chute Approach Topo (Sgurr Alasdair)
The Great Stone Chute has got to be the most God-awful pile a scree on the planet; there is nothing in the cascades or Sierra Nevada that compare to it in depth, steepness, and length. However, most of the chute's loose scree can be avoided by doing the following:
- Start up the scree on the obvious trail
- When you get due north of the Sgurr Sgumain's north ridge, leave the the trail and climb towards to the base of the cliff on talus; it is much more efficient to rest step up talus than it is climbing up this scree, it would be literally two steps forward, one step back otherwise.
- When you get to the base of the cliff, skirt to the left, up towards the opening of the couloir.
- When you get the the couloir opening, cross over the scree to where the ground is firmer,
- Ascend quickly on the left side of the couloir by using the wall with your hands and climbing on rock where possible.
When you get the to the top of the chute, turn to the right; follow the nice class 2/3 ridge to the summit.
Here are some images of the route:
 Sgurr Alasdair from the NE |  Loch Brittle from Sgurr Alasdair route |  Scree pile (Great Stone Chute) |
 Looking up the Great Stone Chute |  Looking down the Great Stone Chute |  ndriley97 on Sgurr Alasdair's E Ridge |
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