Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.49040°N / 7.91080°E |
GPX File:
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Download GPX » View Route on Map |
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Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
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Difficulty:
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TD+ |
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Number of Pitches:
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23 |
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Grade:
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VI |
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Overview
Add Overview text here.Getting There
Access from Lauterbrunnen side : with the BOB or WAB train line as far as Lauterbrunnen, then postal bus to Stechelberg.the approach is to climb to Schmadri hut (2262m)
Maps: LK 1: 25,000, Blatt 1248 Mürren
LK 1: 50,000, Blatt Berner Oberland
Route Description
Follow the Welzenbach route through the first rock band and then, instead of traversing left toward the northeast ridge, continue straight up to the prominent col just west of the main summit. Approach the col via the first couloir west of the main summit, which contains 60 degrees water ice, rotten near the top. The crux of the climb is a 25 foot-high vertical to overhanging section which traverses a rock band halfway up the couloir. The two pitches above the crux are on lose rock held by ice, and can be difficult to protect. Go through the cornice at the top of the couloir and follow the ridge to the summit.First ascent:
John Shervais and Phillip Fanchon, September 2 and 3 1981.
AAJ 1981, Vol 23, pp241-242
Other routes:
Other routes prior to the Fanchon-Shervais route:South ridge
1/ West ridge to the West summit
2/ North West ridge to the West summit
(H Lauper and M Liniger, 26 July 1921)
3/ Traverse from West to East summit
4/ North face to West summit
(K Grater and F Villiger, 6 July 1962)
5/ North face
(W Welzenbach, A Drexel, H Rudy and E Schulze, 25-27 July 1932.)
A topo/photo and more detailed description of the routes above can be found at:
http://7jj.org/vadim/books/Selected%20Climbs/126_127.htm
Note: The Fanchon-Shervais route was established after publication of the Vadim guide. The route lies behind the "1" of "186" on their photo.
Guck - May 17, 2011 1:43 pm - Hasn't voted
Other routesOther routes prior to the Fanchon-Shervais route: South ridge West ridge to the West summit North West ridge to the West summit (H Lauper and M Liniger, 26 July 1921) Traverse from West to East summit North face to West summit (K Grater and F Villiger, 6 July 1962) North face (W Welzenbach, A Drexel, H Rudy and E Schulze, 25-27 July 1932.) A more detailed description of the routes above can be found at: http://7jj.org/vadim/books/Selected%20Climbs/126_127.htm
CrazyJohn - May 19, 2013 6:49 pm - Voted 10/10
Date -- 1980Actual date of first ascent was 1980, not 1981. Very dangerous, difficult route. Leader took a 200 foot fall on crux pitch. Pitch after that thin ice on bad rock.