Welcome to SP!  -
Guggi Hut
Hut/Campground

Guggi Hut

 
Guggi Hut

Page Type: Hut/Campground

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.56531°N / 7.96893°E

Object Title: Guggi Hut

Season: Summer

Elevation: 9157 ft / 2791 m

 

Page By: hansw

Created/Edited: Mar 20, 2007 / Feb 6, 2013

Object ID: 279648

Hits: 6519 

Page Score: 87.75%  - 25 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

 
Guggi Hutte
The Guggi Hut on the ridge

The small Guggi Hut is situated on the north-west ridge of the famous Bernese Oberland mountain Mönch. Knowing where to look the hut is possible to be seen from the railway station Kleine Scheidegg at 2061m.

The first hut, replacing an older one 400 meter below, was built for 14 people in 1911. It was enlarged to accommodate 30 people in 1975.

The hut is open the year around. During the weekends from mid June to end of September the hut is normally served by a warden. Drinks but no food can be bought.

Getting there

 
Nollen Route. (NW)...
On the way to the hut

Information on how to travel to Gridelwald and Kleine Scheidegg can be found on the SP Mönch page

Start from Kleine Scheidegg towards the Eigergletscher station. Turn right to the Eigergletscher moraine. Descend the slope and cross (jump) the torrent before following the tracks leading up to the hut. The path goes to the left. Reaching the level of the hut traverse to the right. There are slings to help to overcome a few exposed steps. To ascend the hut during the winter season requires mountain experience.

This is an interesting tour in a spectacular mountain environment. The hut is an isolated place and the same time close to the tourists 700 meter down at the Kleine Scheidegg.

Allow 3½ hours from Kleine Scheidegg and 3 hours from the Eigergletscher station.



Routes

 
Mönch
A classic picture of the Mönch with the Nollen route. The Guggi Hut is on the lower left where the rock ridge comes into the picture.

 
Nollen Route. (NW)...
The last few meters ice-climbing up the Nollen

The obvious mountains to climb from the Guggi hut are the Mönch (4107m) and the Jungfrau (4158m). Consult the guidebook for details.

Mönch by the Nollen route follows the rock to the left of the hut up to the steep snow and ice called Nollen. Depending on the conditions the route takes 6-10 hours. (D, ice 65 degrees or more)

SP trip report: Winter/Spring Ascent of the Nollen Route up the Mönch

Trip report and pictures from climbing the Nollen

Mönch by the north face, Lauper route. A long mixed large scale climb first done in 1921 by H Lauper and M Liniger. (10-12 hours, D+/TD, rock to V and snow and ice to 60 degrees)

Jungfrau by the Guggiroute. This route was climbed more often in the early days (first ascent in 1865 by Christian Almer and others). The glacier conditions have changed and today the route is by no means straight forward. The Silberhorn (3685m) can also be climbed by this route.

Maps and Books

 
Inside the Guggi Hutte
A four-course dinner in the Guggi Hut

 
Guggi hut on sunset
The Guggi hut at 2791 m

1:25.000 Nr. 1249, Finsteraarhorn
1:50.000 Nr. 264, Jungfrau
Swindin, Les: Bernese Oberland, Selected Climbs, Alpine Club Guide Books, 1993
Munter, Werner und Margrit: Berner Alpen, Rother, München, 1984

Les Cabanes, Du Club Alpine Suisse, 1928

Google Maps


Show larger map

External links

Hut information

More hut information

Photo gallery





Images

Nollen Route. (NW)...Nollen Route. (NW)...Guggi hut on sunsetVeiw from top of Rotstock to Nollen route on MonchInside the Guggi HutteNollen Route. (NW)...Nollen Route. (NW)...
Clear veiw of the Nollen...The Nollen on January 18th...Mönch and Jungfrau from NW....Guggi HutteAbove the Guggi HutteApproaching the ridge leading to Guggi HutteGuggi hut interior