OverviewThis is likely the largest walls at Broughton. Its left side hosts mostly single pitch lines (ex: Sickle) while its right side has longer lines (up to 4 mini pitches in length). Even at its tallest point, the height likely does not exceed 160 feet!
Getting ThereFollow approach directions on the main Broughton Bluff page under Getting There. When you come to the fork mentioned in that section, either turn left up the steep climbers’ trail to reach the left end of Hanging Gardens Wall or stay (right) on the main trail (gentler grade) to reach the right end of Hanging Gardens. Whichever option you choose, there’s a trail running along the base of the crag.
The descent from top of Hanging Gardens Wall is either via rappels (not all routes that top out have anchors in place) or by walking left and down on a class 2-3 trail till you rejoin the main trail system running along the base of the wall.
Loose Block Overhang 5.9
The route can be easily done in one (real pitch), two, or three mini-pitches (lower 2 of 3 belay stations are equipped with bolt anchors).
Pitch 1: 5.9, 50 feet. Move up the thin hands crack directly below small roof. Step right and move up the stem box with a widening crack on the left (easy 5.9 OW). Pull a small overhang above and mantle left onto a sloping ledge. Either continue or belay from two bolts.
Pitch 2: 5.9, 40 feet. Move up the slightly overhanging fingers to hand crack (route crux). Continue up a right trending ramp above. Belay on a large ledge with bolts.
Pitch 3: 5.8, 30 feet. Move left from bolts and up/right via a crack. Pull onto the boulder and traverse left to the walk-off trail. Belay on gear.
Descent: Walk off left and down. Follow general descent description for Hanging Gardens Wall (above).
Gear: A set of cams from green Alien (<0.5 inch) to #4 or 4.5 Camalot. Light set of nuts.
Hanging Gardens 5.6-5.9 A0 or 5.10a
The route can be easily done in two (real pitches), three, or four mini-pitches. With exception of the top of the route (walk off), all belays are equipped with bolt anchors.
Pitch 1: 5.9, 40 feet. Move up the widening crack in a right-facing dihedral. Stem and jam your way to the top of a flake. Belay from bolts next to the small maple tree.
Pitch 2: 5.6, 40 feet. Move right across the slab and then pull upwards via a bulge. Traverse mossy ledges right past a piton belay anchor and belay from bolted anchor on a sloping, narrow ledge.
Pitch 3: 5.6, 40 feet. Continue right along the ledge system for another 20 feet. Pull onto a slab and move up a groove/chimney (~12 feet). Step left and belay from bolts on a good ledge.
Pitch 4: 5.6 A0 or 5.10a (one move), 60+ feet. Traverse right towards the arête. Pull around a “boulder” and clip some fixed pitons. Continue traversing right on pitons – the crux hits between next-to and last pitons – a balancy 5.10a face move or A0 (can be wet and muddy). Continue right and up into the trees and grass. Belay from your tree of choice.
Descent: This route puts you on the summit of Hanging Gardens Wall. Walk off left and down. Trail starts with some class2-3 moves but quickly eases. Follow general descent description for Hanging Gardens Wall (above).
Gear: A set of cams from finger to about 3 inches. #3.5-#4 or #4.5 Camalot if you take the wide 5.9 start option.
Sickle 5.8Located on the left (lower) half of the Hanging Gardens Wall (20 feet right of Edges And Ledges start). Look for a right curving wide crack (~12 feet long, the “sickle”) 30 feet above ground.
Pitch: ~70 feet. Pick whatever crack system tickles your fancy to reach the ledge at the base of the right curving crack. Climb the crack (it constricts to #2-3 Camalot inside) with some stemming (crux). Low angle finger crack and short easy chimney bring you to the belay bolts.
Descent: Either walk off or rappel from the bolts (rap rings in place).
Gear: A set of cams from #0.5 to #3 Camalot (possibly 2X #2). No wide gear was required for the crux.
Edges And Ledges 5.8Located on the far left (lower) half of the Hanging Gardens Wall. Look for two parallel cracks in a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch: ~70 feet. Climb the two cracks for about 20-30 feet. Step right and start clipping bolts: boulder move followed by rest is how the rest of the route goes. Crux (perhaps) comes at top as you climb the short face to the top.
Descent: Either walk off or rappel from the bolts.
Gear: A few cams to 3 inches. QD’s.