Hill Street Blues, 5.4-5.11a

Overview/Approach

Hill Street Blues features three recommended routes from Miramontes local guide:  Blue Bayou, 5.4**, Out of the Blue, 5.11a** and Blues Brothers, 5.10a**.  I felt the two moderates fell short of the multi star recommendation.  Bayou makes sense as it would be a great pitch to teach beginning trad leaders.  It offers a multifaceted crack system up to a fixed rap at the far-left hand of the wall.  Out of the Blue's first half is a polished slab.  I am not sure how many folks are seeking polished slab.  Blues Brothers is poorly protected with its lone bolt missing a hanger and the pro through the crux relying on rps.  This wall is not a worthy destination unless you are exceeding ticking off 1000 routes in the park or desperately need shade.  It is a good wall to combine with the S Crack wall for a full shaded day out.

Hike the restricted access ranger road from the small parking area before the gate at the end of Lost Horse Road.  It leads you south to the S Crack formation.  From there, hike up the hill to the southeast for the grey colored stone above.  Blues Brothers is a slight seam you can locate in the middle of the wall.  From the base of Blues Brothers, it is easy to climb the rest of the routes except Rhythm and Blues which is up and right.  Into the Blue is one of several routes located on MP.com but not in Miramontes 3^rd edition.  The rest of the routes on MP.com did not look worthy of climbing nor listing.

Route Descriptons Listed East to West 

Blue Bayou- 80’-5.4**/ Secure solo at the east end of the wall in the obvious dihedral.  Miramontes 3^rd edition mentions rapping from a tree, but there is a fixed rap at the top of this route as of 2024.  Route gets shade most of the day.  Dow

Into the Blue- 110’-5.9/ This route is not in the latest local guides as of 2024 but is on MP.com.  The line is a jumbled mess of flakes that climb below the grade for Jtree.  Finish on Out of the Blue at the grade (5.9).  No fixed pro on the route.  Single to #4 and plenty of extension.  Can rap Out of the Blue’s fixed rap.  Route gets shade most of the day.  Dow

Out of the Blue- 105’-5.11a*/ “Slick great slab with thin edges” is how it is described in the local guide.  And those edges are micro thin.  The rock is bomber.  The crux is through the initial four bolts on polished slab with thin edges.  Then move up and left to access a shallow short corner.  Climb up and cross Blues Brothers back right to climb a cool crack up an arete through a piton and proceed to where you can do a wide arm pinch (5.10d+) up the arete for a move or two.  Cool movement on good rock.  Single to #2.  A fixed rap is up and left on a west facing wall on the other side of a tree (2024) (Blues Brothers).  Route gets shade most of the day.  Stiff edged shoes will be helpful with the thin edges.  Dow

Blues Brothers- 100’-5.10PG*/ Need to be competent at the grade to lead it.  A thin crack necessitating a small RP or two.  The climbing, at the grade, is protected with small to micro pro.  It is more of a seam and slab climb vs crack.  Near the top of this seam, move up and left, unprotected, to a short and shallow left facing corner that leads to a significant ledge above.  Climb the obvious left facing corner to the top with medium gear.  Can rap Out of the Blue by scrambling west.  Micro wires and cams including some of the smallest stuff you own plus a few small pieces for the finishing corner.  There is a hanger-less bolt as of 2024 that a sliding wire can go on.  Sustained climbing through suspect pro for the first half.  Route gets shade most of the day.  Dow

Blue Monday- 100’-5.10b/ Just to the right of Blues Brothers is a flake up and off the ground several meters.  Climb cruxy slab to reach the flake. There is small pro available.  Once you reach the flake system, follow it trending left below grade to the top of the wall between the tree and Out of the Blue’s fixed rap. Single to #2 including rps and micro cams.  Route gets shade most of the day.  Dow

Rhythm and Blues- 5.10b/