S Crack Formation, 5.8-5.11c

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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S Crack Formation, 5.8-5.11c
Created On: Dec 1, 2017
Last Edited On: Dec 1, 2017

Overview/Approach

 
Left S Crack, 5.8*
Left S Crack, 5.8*

S Crack Formation is located directly behind several park ranger residential units at the dead end of Lost Horse Road. As of 2017, you must park about a mile short of these building on a sandy pullout and walk the road down past the buildings on their left side. There is friends and family (of employees) camping allowed behind the buildings. Stay out east and head directly for the wall where you can easily identify the Right and Left S Crack climbs. Maybe a 15 minute walk from your vehicle.

The feature gets its name from three cracks that each form a slight “S” shape: Left S Crack (5.8*), Middle S Crack (5.11aR*) and Right S Crack (5.9*).  All three are pure trade climbs and no doubt popular with those who camp near the Ranger housing. The only other route on this face is a bolted finish variation of Right S Crack named Jingus Con (5.11c*). Right S Crack was outstanding and Left S Crack is not far behind in terms of fun trad, but due to their height (50’) they only receive one star in Miramontes guides. This wall is actually taller than he gives credit to in the guide (at least 50' vs 40').

Drive to the dead end of Lost Horse Valley Road. Continue (2017) hiking down the sandy road and at some point head out south for the formation (short well varnished wall). If you do not find a faint trail anywhere, just turn left off of the main road onto the road that circumvents the buildings to the south and head for the formation on a well-established trail that leaves the road.

Route Description (s)

North Face, Routes Left to Right

  • Android Lust- 30’-5.11b*/(on a separate boulder behind the formation)

  • Left S Crack- 50’-5.8*/ Like Right S Crack, probably worthy of more than a single star compared to other Miramonte two starred routes. Mostly all hands, but when you hit the S curve, a fun cruxy move for the grade puts you on your stomach before you pull the lip above. There is a bit of rat piss and nests in the crack. Better to bring the 2nd up as it is hard to set a gear top rope without running the rope over the edge. All gear (single rack to #3). Dow

  • Middle S Crack- 50’-5.11aR*/

  • Right S Crack- 50’-5.9*/ Solid 5.9 trad lead in Jtree worthy of more than the single star Miramontes gives it, even though it is relatively short. A cruxy start as you dyno up on hands to get your feet past the small overhang. You enter the pod and come out with exciting exposed moves. A few off set cams are helpful on this pitch as much of the crack is flared. Can set up a gear top rope on this one. Easy walk off climbers left. All gear (single rack to #3). Dow

  • Jingus Con- 50’-5.11c*/