The risk of a pendulum on TR for Cornfed can be mostly eliminated by leaving a quickdraw in at either bolt 3 or 4 (can't remember which). Just have your buddies TRing clip into and out of that thing on the way up and down.
As per the new Marty Lewis/Peter Croft guidebook (2008), the book notes that 'Cornfed' is 5.10a.....not 5.8. Called Marty Lewis and he's verified this.
On a side note, a direct start to Yaum can be done and checks in at .10a/b (height dependent).
I bought the guide over the weekend and saw that rating myself. I also climbed Cornfed again last Thursday. 5.10a? Not so sure... It is quite stiff for 5.8 but I would not rate it harder than 5.9. Maybe it is 5.10a by Owens River Gorge standards :). Yaum is more like 5.7 which is rated accurately in the new book
ExploreABitMore - Mar 22, 2006 10:28 pm - Voted 10/10
CornfedThe risk of a pendulum on TR for Cornfed can be mostly eliminated by leaving a quickdraw in at either bolt 3 or 4 (can't remember which). Just have your buddies TRing clip into and out of that thing on the way up and down.
Dave Daly - Dec 2, 2008 9:47 am - Hasn't voted
A Question Of Rating...As per the new Marty Lewis/Peter Croft guidebook (2008), the book notes that 'Cornfed' is 5.10a.....not 5.8. Called Marty Lewis and he's verified this.
On a side note, a direct start to Yaum can be done and checks in at .10a/b (height dependent).
Misha - Dec 3, 2008 3:27 am - Hasn't voted
Re: A Question Of Rating...I bought the guide over the weekend and saw that rating myself. I also climbed Cornfed again last Thursday. 5.10a? Not so sure... It is quite stiff for 5.8 but I would not rate it harder than 5.9. Maybe it is 5.10a by Owens River Gorge standards :). Yaum is more like 5.7 which is rated accurately in the new book