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Hillbilly Pillar
Route

Hillbilly Pillar

 

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.61470°N / 118.095°W

Object Title: Hillbilly Pillar

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.6-5.11c

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Misha

Created/Edited: Jun 1, 2005 / Dec 3, 2008

Object ID: 165310

Hits: 4820 

Page Score: 73.68%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

Follow the same approach as to Paul's Paradise.

Hillbilly Pillar is located immediately 'behind' (west) Paul's Paradise. To get to the base of the formation you can either skirt around the east or the north/west sides of Paul's Paradise. It is easy to recognize this pillar by its smooth and steep north face.

Route Description

Hillbilly Pillar is an ~80' high pinnacle that sports three established routes; all high quality. Rock here is solid and routes feel a bit stiff for their grade (stark contrast from 'easier' climbs on Paul's Paradise).

To reach the base of all routes, you will need to scramble up a small bouldering problem on the north side. All routes are bolted and do not require any trad gear. Top anchors are solid and feature rappel chains.

  • Yaum 5.6-5.7 bolts. After negotiating a bouldering problem on the north side, clip the first bolt on the 'east arete' and traverse to the east face. Once on the face, continue straight up. Two steep moves approximately half way up the face felt a bit harder and more awkward than your usual 5.6.
  • Cornfed 5.8+, 5 bolts. This spectacular route follows the flakes on the eastern (left) side of the north face. Start climbing up immediately below the first bolt from the block. The route is steep, sustained and airy throughout! Follow the flake system until the top anchor. For marginally easier climbing and rest spots, you may want to go left to the 'east arete'. However, this will eventually require traversing or downclimbing back to the north face. It felt much harder than the 5.8 routes on Paul's Paradise. There is a potential for pendulum falls. I would not recommend this route for top-roping.
  • Hillbilly 5.11c, 5 bolts. Very steep and polished face climb on the western (right) side of the north face. Shares the top anchor with and can be top-roped after leading Cornfed.

    Essential Gear

    Rope, harness, draws, TR setup

    Miscellaneous Info

    If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

    Images

    Hilbilly Pillar, Alabama Hills