Hohe Weisse on SP. Thanks for posting this nice work. I was there some 25 years ago and had a great time in Texel range. I climbed Hohe Weisse and Hochwilde south summit from Lodner Hütte in one day - maybe you like to add the Lodner Hütte / Partschins ascent as another route. Cheers, Michael
I'm glad you appreciate the page. There should be more pages for the Texel range, but as I haven't climbed the Roteck or Texel Spitze, I won't be describing them anytime soon.
As for the precise route you followed, I'm guessing that you traversed the slopes of the Kleine Weiße north-west of the Johannisscharte and then went directly up the glacier (the Grubferner) to the saddle between Hohe Weiße and Grafspitze. Is that right, or did you follow a different route?
From what I've read, 25 years ago ascending the glacier directly to the saddle was the normal route, but with the glacier almost gone, that route has deteriorated and is not recommended anymore. It's pretty steep, but whether the exposed loose rock actually makes it more dangerous or just more laborious, I don't know.
By the way, to climb both summits from Lodner must have been a long day! Did you go back to the Lodner, or end the day in the Stettiner Hütte?
Perhaps you could add an entry to the summit log about your trip, and include the answers to my questions.
Ok, I've just added the Partschins approach via the Lodner Hütte, but described it first of all as another way to get to the Stettiner Hütte. I've also added a paragraph about the route over the (former) Grubferner, but since the conditions have changed a lot since 25 years ago, I've made some reservations.
Hi Rob,
to ask your question: we went from Lodner Hütte directly to Eisjöchl, traversing Johannesscharte and ascended Hochwilde south. As the day was still "young" we decided to climb Hohe Weisse, too. It was the ascent directly starting at Eisjöchl. We went back on the same way to Lodnerhütte where we had our "basecamp". I didn´t knew the "normal ascent" via Grubferner. I can imganine that this route is sort of no-go-area nowadays.
In these days we summited Tschirgant / Lazinser Rötelspitze, Lodner via the spectacular northwest / west marble arete, Roteck, Blasiuszeiger / Zielspitze.
Those were the young and wild days .......... :-)
EricChu - Mar 15, 2011 5:38 pm - Voted 10/10
Super page!And great photos!
Cheers,
Eric
rgg - Mar 16, 2011 5:12 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Super page!Thanks :). Ciao, Rob
selinunte01 - Apr 1, 2011 6:24 am - Voted 10/10
Great to seeHohe Weisse on SP. Thanks for posting this nice work. I was there some 25 years ago and had a great time in Texel range. I climbed Hohe Weisse and Hochwilde south summit from Lodner Hütte in one day - maybe you like to add the Lodner Hütte / Partschins ascent as another route. Cheers, Michael
rgg - Apr 1, 2011 8:45 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Great to seeHi Michael,
I'm glad you appreciate the page. There should be more pages for the Texel range, but as I haven't climbed the Roteck or Texel Spitze, I won't be describing them anytime soon.
As for the precise route you followed, I'm guessing that you traversed the slopes of the Kleine Weiße north-west of the Johannisscharte and then went directly up the glacier (the Grubferner) to the saddle between Hohe Weiße and Grafspitze. Is that right, or did you follow a different route?
From what I've read, 25 years ago ascending the glacier directly to the saddle was the normal route, but with the glacier almost gone, that route has deteriorated and is not recommended anymore. It's pretty steep, but whether the exposed loose rock actually makes it more dangerous or just more laborious, I don't know.
By the way, to climb both summits from Lodner must have been a long day! Did you go back to the Lodner, or end the day in the Stettiner Hütte?
Perhaps you could add an entry to the summit log about your trip, and include the answers to my questions.
Ciao, Rob
rgg - Apr 2, 2011 4:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great to seeOk, I've just added the Partschins approach via the Lodner Hütte, but described it first of all as another way to get to the Stettiner Hütte. I've also added a paragraph about the route over the (former) Grubferner, but since the conditions have changed a lot since 25 years ago, I've made some reservations.
selinunte01 - Apr 12, 2011 10:09 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Great to seeHi Rob,
to ask your question: we went from Lodner Hütte directly to Eisjöchl, traversing Johannesscharte and ascended Hochwilde south. As the day was still "young" we decided to climb Hohe Weisse, too. It was the ascent directly starting at Eisjöchl. We went back on the same way to Lodnerhütte where we had our "basecamp". I didn´t knew the "normal ascent" via Grubferner. I can imganine that this route is sort of no-go-area nowadays.
In these days we summited Tschirgant / Lazinser Rötelspitze, Lodner via the spectacular northwest / west marble arete, Roteck, Blasiuszeiger / Zielspitze.
Those were the young and wild days .......... :-)