Hyperborea

Overview

First Ascent: Nov 2001 by Vitaliy Yarchevskiy & Vladimir Marunich

The route goes by the right side of south wall. On the upper part route comes left.

Length of the route: 300 m (1000 ft), 200 m (670 ft) of them is overhang, sometimes more then 100°.
Climbing difficulty: VI+
Aid climbing: A3+

Approach

The reference point of the route can be huge overhanging corner on the right side of the south wall. Start of the route is straight under the bottom part of the overhanging corner.

Route Description

This description based on route description of Vitaliy Yarchevskiy & Vladimir Marunich - first ascenders.

R0 – R1 (30 m, VI, A2, 85°): First pitch starts by the small chute on the border of ivy coated and solid rocks. Exit from the chute is little bit right on the slab. There is first bolt. Then by logical way to the good visible (bolted) blasted cut off rock. From there climb up-right (6b+)or by pendulum to right crack and aid climb to the belay station – bolts on the not steep ledge.

R1 – R2 (35 m, VI, A2-A3, 95°): Second pitch starts by hard climbing (6c) over the roof along the crack to the bolt. Then go along bolts by short moves of difficult climbing (7a). Further bolts go under the roof on the inside wall of which is good bolted station.

R2 – R3 (35 m, VI, A3, 90°): Climb up and right over the roof. Then via difficult intervals (7a) with intervening belay to the slab which is little right to the base of corner. There is station on two bolts.

R3 – R4 (30 m, VI+, A2, 100°): By steep blasted rocks go to the inside corner. Climb up by the corner. It is combination of aid and difficult climbing (6c). Reach the fold. This is the middle of the route.

R4 – R5 (R4-R5: 30 m, VI, A2, 100°): Climb up by the corner, then go right on the outside wall. From there by blasted rocks using skyhooks climb to the ledge. There is only one place where you can stay or sit freely. This is the last station from where you can try to rappel down.

R5 – R6 (30 m, VI, A3+, 95°): From the ledge climb up-left by the crack to the roof, which you have to climb straight over. Then is difficult climbing along the crack to the cut off rock which is in the base of good visible overhanging corner. There is belay station on two bolts.

R6 – R7 (55 m, VI+, A3+): Climb left and up by the left side of overhanging corner (very difficult aid climbing). There is very thin almost solid crack. Use all arsenals of aid devices (ironhawks, knife blade pitons, RURPs, hatchets) which can help you to pass this crack. Rich the cut off rock and climb up-right to the belay station.

R7 – R8 (50 m, V, 70°): Using skyhooks climb up by flat rocks to enter to grey inside corner. Climb by the corner avoid jammed unstable blocks. Then climb a little right on monolithic rock. By the rock climb up to the slab, then reach the ledge with a tree on right side. Belay station is on the pine tree.

R8 – Summit: Go a little right and straight up to the summit by easy block-rocks.

Essential Gear

You need standard aid & big wall gear.
I recommend to take with you:
- thin blade Pitons;
- different RURPs;
- different Skyhooks;
- Ironhawks;
- Camalots (0 - 3.5);
- Portaledge;
And everything else what can help you to climb this route.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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