Ikhibi Nord

Approach

See Normal Route / Ikhibi Sud > Approach to get to the base of the climb, Refuge Neltner.

Route Description

Robin G. Collomb in his book "Atlas Mountains. Morocco" 1987, pages 81and 82, says:

"Descend the valley trail for 5 min. then cross the river right on grass and follow this bank. Ahead and above on your flank lies the opening to the N cwm (Ikhibi), defended by a huge moraine. Make a rising traverse above some isolated blocks near the stream and find a small track slanting up the loose moraine to reach its crest. Follow crest to a large bouldery crescent above the right side of the bed. Work along this and at the far end go into the bed where the angle relaxes. Now go up in the bottom round a corner to steeper ground wich is cut by several rockbands. Climb through these easily or turn them left, with much unpleasant scree, finally mounting a steep opening left in the headwall to an exit right over scree. Before mid May a lot of this terrain will be snow covered. Join an obvious col in the main ridge above. A track keeps slightly left up the fairly rocky NE ridge of the mountain and rises regularly for 150 m to the summit plateau, 4h 30 min. In descent 2 h 30 min".

Jean Dresch and Jacques de Lépiney in their book "Le Massif du Toubkal" say the route is 3h 30 min - 4 h in ascent. Also they say: attention on descent to the ridge NE and Col 3,950 m / 12,959 ft because of the W ridge cliffs!

Essential Gear

Early in the season crampons, ice axe and warm clothes are necessary.

Images

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