Illiniza Norte (Iliniza Norte) Climber's Log
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|schleger||Fun in the sun|
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2012
|Spent a night at the refugio with my daughter and Guide Segundo. We had recently summited Pasochoa and Corazon and needed to spend some time at or above 15k in preparation for Cotopaxi. Weather conditions could not have been better. Partly sunny / light wind. There was some snow in shadowy spots, perhaps 1/2 an inch. Scrambling was done on dry exposed rock which offered good nooks and crannies to grab hold of. There were a couple of spots with significant exposure and being roped to an experienced guide eased any concerns I had. The three of us occupied and essentially took up all the space on the tiny summit. That was cool. This was our favorite peak due to the challenging scrambling and nice weather. Also, the altitude was not affecting us, yet.....Next Cotopaxi!|
|Posted Jun 22, 2012 12:56 am|
|DanielWandsneider||fun weekend climb |
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2011
|My two buddies planned for the Matterhorn, but after not getting the stand-by flight to europe, we flew down to Ecuador and climbed Iliniza Norte. Wish we could have done Sur, but Norte was fun all the same.|
|Posted Feb 17, 2012 10:43 am|
|chicagosky||A good slog in windy conditions |
Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2011
|Very windy at the summit, almost got blown off a few times but was an interesting climb. Had to crampon up and use rope for a few sections of the climb|
|Posted Jan 4, 2012 8:37 am|
|MMclimbhigh||From Refugio |
Date Climbed: Nov 29, 2011
|Stayed in the Refugio for acclimating purposes. Climbed Norte at dawn. Some of the best views of the Northern Andes!|
|Posted Dec 19, 2011 4:41 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2009
|Posted Dec 11, 2011 2:03 pm|
|brota||Easy walk |
Date Climbed: Dec 7, 2011
|At night with moonlight hiking from El Chaupi next to the cottage in about 4 hours (they wanted me to pay $5 for camping next to it!). At 5.30 am starting the hike up. Surprisingly easy walk (almost no snow on the way) and in 1:15 hrs with slow pace first one on the top.|
|Posted Dec 9, 2011 5:05 pm|
Date Climbed: Nov 28, 2011
|Spent the night at La Llovizna... great price on lodging but dinner was a bit steep. Our organization required us to get a guide for this trip so he met us at the hostal in the morning - at least transportation was included. We began at La Virgencita as clouds began rolling in. We decided going up and down the direct route because the guide thought it safer with my friend´s experience. The steep sandy section is brutal! By the time we got to rock, it began hailing a little bit...and this quickly turned into large hail, and thunder began rolling in around us. We hurried up the scrambling section on wet rock as the thunder got closer and closer, then saw the summit cross with immense relief. We began descending a minute later on extra slippy rock covered in a layer of snow...sure made things really interesting. This was a pretty exciting summit for us with such crazy weather.|
|Posted Nov 30, 2011 11:45 am|
|madclimber||Ruta Normal |
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2008
|Easy day climb|
|Posted Nov 2, 2011 8:43 pm|
Date Climbed: Dec 5, 2010
|Will definitely hit Iliniza Sur the next time I'm there, probably hit Norte again as we had no view from the summit...good aclimatization peak for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.|
|Posted Oct 23, 2011 9:45 pm|
|karore||Beautiful Climb |
Date Climbed: Dec 29, 2010
|It was beautiful day I really enjoyed the climb and the views were fantastic|
|Posted Oct 8, 2011 11:39 am|
|Boriss Andean||I was too slow! |
Date Climbed: May 21, 2011
|Wow!, it’s been more than 2 months since I climbed Illiniza Norte for last time. Despite being rock climbing at low altitudes (Quito, 9,300 ft.) and running my personal half Marathons every weekend I felt completely out of shape and thought I could perform better, a bit of disappointment. |
Anyway, it took me exactly one hour to get to the summit (5,126 m / 16,818 ft.) from the refuge. I climbed it in one day leaving early from Quito.
Perfect weather. Sunny and not windy at all. I found the rocks to be loose, actually very loose. Probably because the last climbing parties that tried to climb the mountain during the last couple months couldn’t find the right path to the summit which was fully covered by snow by then, knocking rocks here and there. I still found a snowy/icy traverse below the summit, but easy to negotiate with caution.
Great to be back in the mountains after this long downtime. I know I'll say the same about home in a few months :D.
|Posted May 23, 2011 3:14 pm|
|Inday||Re: Mal Suerte|
|Very true man, and a very appropriate reminder. What I meant by bumbeling was the manner by which they were placing the protection: giant swings of the ice axe, throwing snow and ice all over the place that went on to slide down over a face, raining down on a the ascent line. If they had gone further out right to set the pro, more directly above their descent line, this all may have turned out differently.|
But I agree Boris. As guides, they made a safety call, and that is paramount over a summit push. Thanks for the re-framing of the issue.
|Posted Feb 20, 2011 12:54 am|
|Boriss Andean||Re: Another try but NO again|
|Well, now you know, those protections were necessary Paulo. Better safe than sorry.|
Just in case somebody falls.
|Posted Jan 30, 2011 7:25 pm|
|Boriss Andean||Re: Mal Suerte|
|Congratulations on reaching the summit.|
Im sorry the "bumbeling crew" got on your way during your ascent. But I know they are very well trainned in taking care of their clients.
I know it could be irritating when we have to wait in line for our turn or yield to another party while they are trying to lower down one of their clients, who wasn't feeling comfy down-climbing "La Canaleta" or "Paso de La Muerte". But we always need to be patience and just wait in line.
Rushing somebody up through expossed passes could cause fatal accidents sometimes. That's why, we as guides need to place sometimes protection and set up anchors in order to take care of the people we are guiding to.
You are right, it's better to be safe than sorry.
My friends (guides) were placing protection in order to avoid a fatal accident, like the one that occured last Friday (Jan.28.2011) in the very same place described by you above.
Nothing personal guys, I met with you'all a couple times up in Cotopaxi and you seem nice and fun folks to hang out with. Just wanted to let you know why this "bumbeling crews" set up these protections up high.
In the other hand, maybe the guides weren't clear enough, unpolite or sounded rude. They also should find a way of yielding other climbers up or down. Kind of hard in a bottleneck, though.
|Posted Jan 30, 2011 7:18 pm|
|SenadR||Nice scrambling |
Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2011
|Nice climb prior to Cotopaxi.|
|Posted Jan 29, 2011 7:49 pm|
|Went to the Illnizas as prep for Cotopaxi and Chimbo|
|Posted Jan 29, 2011 2:30 am|
|tmfaust21||Snow on Norte? |
Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2011
|All the climbing book say there isn't snow on Norte. They may be right most of the time but there was quite a bit when I tried it. Only made it to the Paso de la Muerte and had to turn around cause I didn't bring an ice axe, crampons, or rope (and I only had 1.5 hrs to get back to the parking lot to meet my ride, made it down though)|
|Posted Jan 27, 2011 6:56 pm|
|Zyta||normal route |
Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2010
|windy and rainy weather, after drinking tea in refuge i got serious stomach illness, but I made it to the top.|
|Posted Jan 26, 2011 12:42 pm|
|Inday||Mal Suerte |
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2011
|Parofes and I made a good effort, but he got turned back by the risk of snow, ice, and rock falls as he described. It should be noted that the ridge had fresh snow and ice, making the Paso del Muerte pretty dangerous. I summited after waiting for the other bumbeling crew to get out of my way. I am not sure what the heck they were up to, putting protection in on the descent to the far right of the Paso del Muerte, but I guess better safe than sorry...|
|Posted Jan 19, 2011 10:11 am|
|PAROFES||Another try but NO again|
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2011
|Me and Gavin all the way up. Good weather, i was a little bit slow yet cuz of the damn cold i got, throat still infected...|
We passed thru Paso de La Muerte, crossed the snowed (that was supposed to be rocky) field, really dangerous...the fresh snow was going down with me...crazy.
When i got to the canaleta, 4 or 5 minutes after Gavin, there was a 5 person team coming down. So i waited. It wasnt really necessary at THAT place, but they were doing protections...so i waited, waited...i couldnt go up bcuz with their down climbing going on, some rocks and ice and snow were falling down every second, and after 30 or 35 minutes waiting (incredible!) the weather changed. BADLY. Had to come back right away. Gavin summited Norte and i didnt again...
Too bad for me...i blame that group!
|Posted Jan 18, 2011 7:13 pm|