Illiniza Norte (Iliniza Norte) Climber's Log
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|Tom Fralich||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 18, 2003|
|Very fun, but short route (we reached the summit in just 1.5 hours from the hut). Sadly, we had no views during the climb and never even saw the mountain during our 3 days stay at the hut. There was some snow on the route but still no need for crampons. The so-called Paso del Muerto was no problem, neither the gully below the summit (4th class). We also hoped to climb Iliniza Sur and explored the route as far as the entrance to the glacier, including marking it with wands. In the end, we decided not to attempt the route though, since we never had a clear view of the mountain which would certainly have created route-finding problems. We were also concerned about too much unconsolidated snow on the route (tricky descent, avalanches). We left, planning to return later in the trip for another attempt. Great acclimatization trip though and the hut keeper Fernando was very friendly. We returned and climbed Iliniza Sur on January 2, 2004 (see Summit Log).|
|Posted Dec 20, 2003 7:54 pm|
|dloring||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: May 26,2003|
|Easy hike in the fog from the refugio. Good acclimization for bigger, better things. Just too bad the weather didn't cooperate for Sur.|
|Posted Jun 10, 2003 8:47 pm|
|Rockhopper||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: may 16, 2003|
|Started at La Virgen with Pepe (our guide) and my wife (and climbing partner) Astrid. Since we had climbed Guagua Pichincha for acclimatisation, the walk to the refugio Nuevos Horizontes was easy. Reached the refugio in 2,5 hours. We were very surprised when our friend Mauricio arrived at the refugio later in the afternoon. He was also guiding two (American) climbers to the summit of Iliniza Norte. It was really good to see him. |
After a cold and restless night we started climbing at 6.15 am. Astrid had a terrible headache and wasn't feeling well.
Visibility was poor. Only once we got a glimpse of Corazon through the clouds. After crossing the southern slope of scree and sand, we reached the ridge at about 4900 m. At this point Astrid decided to turn around. Mauricio accompanied her.
On the ridge we were exposed to a strong wind. Also the icy rocks made the climb more exciting. Decided to use one fixed rope on the icy rocks in the couloir just below the summit. No visibility at the summit: I am still wondering whether Iliniza Sur really exists or not..........
Reached the refugio after 4,5 hours.
|Posted Jun 3, 2003 2:36 pm|
|Jerry L||Date Climbed: February 19, 2003|
|Turned back at 15,500' as my son became nervous with the exposure and the bad footing on the loose rocks. It was his first climb with this type of terrain and altitude.|
|Posted Mar 6, 2003 4:42 am|
|Zhenya77||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 27, 2002|
|It was the first mountain in the sequenced that our group was planning to climb. The approach to Refugio was quite straightforward though it still required pretty good physical preparation. On the Summit day we took off quite late around 7:30 am. So by the time we reached the summit the top of the mountain was all covered in clouds. Overall it is quite easy mountain to climb in the low 5000's meters. Since it was only our second day at such an altitude some of the members of our party struggle through continues headaches|
|Posted Jan 23, 2003 7:21 pm|
|mookyee||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: july 15, 2002|
|this was actually one of my favorite climbs in ecuador - dope views of the other mountains, not too difficult (that's easy to say now). lots of scrambling and loose rock. good acclimitization for cotopaxi. be sure to stay at papa gaya in machachi - very cool place. Sandwiches at 16.800 taste hella good, fo' sure!|
|Posted Jan 21, 2003 2:30 am|
|El Tigre Valderrama||Route Climbed: climbed it via North Face, decended via Normal Date Climbed: January 3, 2002|
|Climbed with my wife Annica Carlsson. Reached summit after hiking from la Virgen. Lots of fog. Access to gully very nasty, too much scree and sand. Nice trip accross the mountain, higly recommended as aclimatization climb.|
|Posted Jan 5, 2003 3:51 pm|
|philtower||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 23 September 2002|
|Climbed normal route from camping at La Virgen (4000m) via hut at 4700m. Woken at 4am by roaring bulls! Watch out for these bulls on the track either side of La Virgen. They are bred for bullfighting and I was told by a local that in a group they are pretty safe, but if you encounter one by itself, run very fast!|
Iliniza Norte itself is quite an easy scramble. If you follow the cairn-marked path exactly (as I did on the return) you hardly need to use your hands. I had clear weather with no ice or snow conditions. Very good views of Iliniza Sur and Cotopaxi.
|Posted Oct 1, 2002 1:19 pm|
|jasonconnell||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: November 11th 1999|
|Didn't really plan to summit, just wanted to get a little more altitude before climbing Sur. The thing was such a bitch I had to though, loose rock almost the whole way, 2 steps up I step down. Great views of Sur.|
See trip report for Sur
|Posted Sep 10, 2002 9:14 am|
|jpdoumeyrou||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: feb 2002|
|spent the night at the refugio. Not too bad but ultra damp (stone and moss). Got the first altitude-induced migraine of my life -(aaaargh). Then around 4 a.m, headache gone, start for the summit. As day breaks, magnificent views on Illi Sur and a lake between the two peaks. Go for the other side of the mountain, then slowly turn left again to the summit. Near the summit, kind of hairy, because the slope tends to be severe, and the rocks are covered with a thin layer of crusty ice, just enough to make you slip and not enough to plant your soles into. Not a good place to lose your footing. Wonderful views to the East as the sun rises.|
Apart from that, nothing terribly exciting technically. Just scrambling on slanted iced rocks or walking on volcanic ash powder. Kind of the last portion to Kibo, with a more slanted slope.
|Posted Aug 9, 2002 5:58 am|